Raman

iTrader: (94)

I have the Futaba Cadillac Coup De Ville 7PX 😂

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Then you are good. It’s the Sanwa people that get the bad news

soulstice

iTrader: (19)

Wheels are fine and will be the correct offset for the Autoscale you're purchasing. The tires from an autoscale . . . . I just use them for display. I don't know the exact compound but they're definitely on the harder side of what you would normally run on RCP. 50* or 60* but that's a complete guess.

TPDazzle

I've been trying to replace our zip-tied Pvc timing bridge for a long time with something that looks a lot more scale and fitting of a race track. I tried a version a few years ago and the towers were good, but my idea for the bridge failed. I finally thought of using aluminum rods to support my 3d printed parts. With our new reality, I got some time to make it happen (and I brought a printer home from my currently closed work). I still intend to prime and paint this, and I'm going to try model airplane heat shrink to make sponsor banners on either side of the bridge. Hopefully they will still show the structure underneath.


I still need to epoxy everything together and hope it holds up, but I thought I'd share what I had so far. I have 3 more adjustable sensor mounts printed but not installed in the photo. This was drawn in AutoDesk Inventor and printed in PLA.

MrTexR

A few more questions

1. What's the difference between the radial and slick tires? Seem like some of you are running with front slick and rear radial.. why is that?
2. How long do tires last? I bought some radial tires and after about 1000 laps around the RCP track (rough side), the tread is almost gone?! is this normal? am I don't something wrong?
3. I also bought some Kyosho carbon t-plates. I'm using the medium one. But unfortunately, I get a lot of bouncing when going around a turn. I feel like I'm losing a lot of traction before I can accelerate on the exit. I went back to the original plastic t-plate and I just hit my fastest lap fastest overall time .. not by a lot but enough to make me wonder if I'm doing something dumb

Thanks! you guys have been awesome at answering my questions

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Rough side will wear tires quicker. Rough side is high grip. So even worn they usually still work. I’m well over a thousand on current sets. I run smooth side.

Tim3

iTrader: (1)

...(EMU - there are three settings to adjust the steering, strength, speed and punch. )..

Thanks EMU ! Tim3

LJH

iTrader: (2)

1. Running radial rears and slick fronts is defiantly the norm. Early on I tried radials on the front but at that time in my Mini-Z career I could not tell the difference. I will run radial rear down well past the tread and they can still produce quick laps, especially on my lower power cars. On high power car the tread seems to help with forward bite.
2. There is a very noticeable difference in tire wear between the smooth and rough side of RCP. The tread wear will decrease as the tread wears but I would say you are seeing normal tire wear. You will see significantly more wear with high horse power cars. I bet my Box Stock car has 4000+ laps on the rears and you can still see the tread where as I replaced the tires on my GLR just a couple weeks ago and the tread is gone.
3. All depends on your overall set up and driving style. Just because you buy a "upgrade" part it does not mean you can install it and you will automatically be faster, You need to test and tune to see what works and what does not for you and that particular car. I find that going to stiff on the T-Plate will cause chattering as well if I push to hard. If you are running Box Stock a little heavy grease on the top shock shaft can help a wee bit.

Cheers,
Jim

Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

Last night I was able to get down to 319.9 with my box stock car, but it was chattering some. I'll have to try this! What weight are you using?

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Evo4100

pimp it

Hi guys
what track do you recommend for my basement and where do I purchase
thanks
any replies would be appreciated

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

Do we know with certainty what material the Kyosho white bodies are made of?

Considering this Gorilla Glue, but website says it’s not recommended for use on polyethylene or polypropylene plastic or similar materials.

LJH

iTrader: (2)

Is that just CA? I have used CA but I mostly use cheap 2-Part Epoxy, it is easy to apply with a toothpick and easier to clean up if you get some where you do not want it. You do need to be careful with CA because it will fog clear lenses/windows if it is not the odorless variety.

I am quite sure White Bodies are Polystyrene.

Cheers,
Jim

Cheers,

LJH

iTrader: (2)

I can completely recommend the RCP Mini 96 Track.

Tiny RC is great vendor for them and it actually looks like they may have them in stock.

If you are interested in a bit of competition you can compete virtually in the Mini96 World Challenge.

Cheers,
Jim