Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

I think it is, and I'm wondering if that is the reason CA never seems to hold for long when used to fix a cracked body. Always seems to break along same crack when impacted. Do you know what the white bodies are made of?

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

i haven’t tried it yet. But they group I race with recommend using shoe goo over glue.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I believe it’s ABS, this is why I suggested Plastruct product. You apply it to the seam and it reacts with the ABS creating a bond weld.

You could then place a coat of U6000 if you like. It’s much better than Shoegoo.. it’s basically the same glue but much lighter .. eg not as thick.

To avoid clear plastic from fogging using CA, Apply a swab of shock oil, or Vaseline on clear area.. this way the CA won’t attack and fog it

Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! I have used Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement to fix cracked bodies, and it does much better than CA. It also doesn't stick to your fingers, like CA. Wonder if it is similar to the Plastruct product.

I'm really into building/tuning/racing Mini-Zs, and love a good looking body, but I'm trying real hard not to get into body painting and assembly, but I'm loosing that fight... I have zero plastic model experience and don't have the time or skill to get into it.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Correct. Tamiya Extra Thin is similar to Plastruct. Tamiya now also has a quick set cement which is even better

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

First body will seem like work. After that they go together quick. I’m not picky about fogged windows or lens. They get run and hit.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Its also different than a model kit as you just have to paint the body.. not all the bits and pieces like engine, suspension, gluing.. so not very hard.

superfly05

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRAVELER

I think it is, and I'm wondering if that is the reason CA never seems to hold for long when used to fix a cracked body. Always seems to break along same crack when impacted.

I have a theory about this, not even very complicated. Adhesives like Shoe Goo, Goop, etc. remain somewhat soft when cured, and this allows the energy of a blow to be absorbed and dissipated better than a hard, solid adhesive like CA. I often pre-emptively put a squirt of Shoe Goo and spread it thinly in the nose area of my cars to keep them from breaking in the first place. I also like using it for body clips, as there's been more than one time I wanted to reposition them, and Shoe Goo allows for this fairly easily. Plus, I think that little bit of gooey adhesive on the side helps absorb energy.

LJH

iTrader: (2)

Side clips are one place I will use CA, a tiny drop is enough to hold them for me but they are still easy to remove.

FYI, I do run solo so I do not have to deal with car to car collisions.

Cheers,
Jim

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Someday I hope you get a chance to watch your car get hit repeatedly by every other car on the track. It’s something to watch when we get a new driver. As much as we try to warn them that collisions happen. They are never ready.

Traveler2

iTrader: (1)

This is one of my favorite parts of the M96WC!!! I don't miss the wrecks!

superfly05

It's usually a nice, brand-new Autoscale, too. Kind of doing the cringe-shrug, knowing the bright, shiny new toy will be going home without mirrors, headlight lenses and the spoiler.

MrTexR

Thanks everyone for their tire advice. Now I have a follow up question...
On the M96 track, the rougher side has more grip, but it's slower? I would think, more grip means better traction? What am I missing, or am I misunderstanding..

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

You’ll get different opinions here. I was a over half second faster on the rough side then smooth side when I ran the standard mini96 layout.

Zerathul

Hello guys, I'm kind of new to RC world. Bought xmaxx and e-revo like 5-6 months ago but now i want to make something for indoors. But im lost.

Now i will buy 2 of Mini-Z, so should i go with RTR or chassis kits? if i go with chassis kits which one should i go? I was thinking about 4100 kV, because its cheaper and better suited for me, but i read here it doesn't have ball diff. So 5600 kV is best choice for me i think (sp additions also a good bonus, there are 40$ difference in 4100 kv and 5600 kV). What do you think? Maybe i can get one mr 5600 kV and one ma 8500 kV? Because wife will use one of the cars awd might help her, right?

I'm lost about transmitters too, should i get budged Kyosho KT-18 or go higher and buy 4pm? Biggest problem is whatever i buy, i have to buy 2x. So what is my best option in terms of price and performance. Some people said KT-18 is a toy grade transmitter so i don't know, there is a 100$ difference between them.

Last thing is about track, I have a space of 3x3 meters for track, 3x4 at max. Can i make my own track or should i buy prebuild?

Thats lots of questions i know, but im so happy i found a Mini-Z forum! Thanks!