tornadojoe87

Sounds like you used up the battery and need to recharge it. The stock batteries don't last very long, definitely not the amount of time stated, unless you never go over like 70% throttle and drive on a smooth surface. The reason the light still works and the steering still works is to ensure that the truck doesn't become uncontrollable or unseeable when the battery goes below the specific voltage and cuts off the motor. So you can steer away from danger or find the truck in the dark even if you can't give it throttle. Otherwise you could end up in a scenario where you lose control at top speed and the truck just slams right into a tree/wall/person etc. The reason why it works for a little bit after powering off and back on again is because the battery cells recover a bit of the energy within, due to chemicals converted back into energy (technical terms for it I can't recall off the top of my head at the moment lol), just like how you can turn off a dead flashlight for a bit and turn it back on for dim light again

tornadojoe87

I just found this forum today and also just took a look at the FTX drivetrain upgrades mentioned, but I am wondering if you only get what is pictured with each of those? Specifically the 9778 Differential gears; does that only include those internals components? And how are those compatible with the 16420 Differential? The 16420 has a + shaped center rod thing holding 4 small gears which connect to 2 bigger gears that are locked onto the outside axel cup things. That FTX image shows only 2 small gears and the another gear with just a straight center rod and then the two gears that lock to the outside. Is that really swappable with the 16420 internals or does it actually come with a shell and everything like expected, ready to install as a single component lol? I have the rebranded 16208 : DEERC H16R and the true problem they have isnt the gears on any specific drivetrain component, it's actually the + shaped center rod inside the differentials that snaps and causes the chain reaction after it locks up: the tiny screws holding it together shear off and the differential case opens up, then the main connecting spur gear on the driveshaft will go toothless, and you then have a crippled 2WD truck. I have not seen a single other failure in the drivetrain and I have went through 8 broken 16420s and 4 broken 16401s spur gear. I have even received some 16420s that were literally trying to lock up right out of the factory before I even installed them lmao! They are very poor quality diecast metal that I would compare to being a tad stronger than pewter, with burs and snags throughout, but yeah the true culprit is at the very center. Id like to find just a steel replacement for that + shaped piece and stick one into each of these differentials I still have in a box all cleaned up, and see how long the drivetrain components would last, plus see which component would be the next weakest part... Ive already upgraded to the Steel G versions, but I only had enough to fully upgrade 1 trucks drivetrain and then a 16401 upgrade into a second one along with 16392G for all 3. Only 2 16420G. (I have 3 of the same truck due to the inadequate components failing within an hour or two of total usage and being sent free replacement trucks and told to keep the other "for spare parts", for a total of 1 purchase and then 2 replacements, and then a full refund on the original order so they didn't have to worry about the warranty anymore. 3 free brushless 16208s complete with 6 batteries and all, not a bad deal I'd say! Ive put a DumboRC X6FG into one of them and the stock 45a instead of the 35a all-in-one, and that truck is the most used and has the complete drivetrain upgrades. I also took a few of the batteries apart and made 3S batteries which I just disassemble and charge the cells individually after use. The truck goes around 50mph when I assemble and use a 3S lmao! I have a "fly-by" video of it on my YouTube channel (same name as here) titled "Don't Blink" im pretty sure, and I have also created 2S2P batteries for it so I can drive for significantly longer than stock (I ordered 8 3500mah 18650 cells that I use for the parallel setup since they don't have enough output current to adequately supply full throttle for 2.5x the drive time like I originally anticipated, unless I split the load) Ok I think that should be enough for an intro post haha! Im also a noob pretty much, with just the 3 H16R 16408s and a RedCat Volcano 16 (which I put the shocks into from the first "parts truck" that actually became a true spare parts truck until I get around to ordering a few more of the Steel G versions to supply all 3

angrymelon

iTrader: (1)

I haven't actually done any of the drive-train upgrades myself. I'm pretty gentle on my rigs though, so it probably explains why I haven't had any issues so far. I'll keep my eyes and ears peeled for anything regarding the center shaft alternatives.

tornadojoe87

It's the piece near the middle of this image, the Circle with the 4 shafts where the smallest of the gears are seated onto. Its such a small part that I assume would be super cheap to make. Need a differential with all Tungsten internals, or even better: entirety made of Unobtainium lol

https://a.co/d/6F33Afh HYPER GO 16420Y 1:14 1:16 Scale RC Car Upgrade Accessories Powder Metallurgy Differential, Upgrade Spare Parts RC Vehicle Differentials for HYPER GO All 1/14 1/16 Scale

Second image which shows the teardown of the differential

Ehh it's not working and I don't have enough posts yet to just upload the image myself

angrymelon

iTrader: (1)

Ah I think you're talking about the differential cross pin? I don't remember, is the one that comes with the HyperGo metal, or is it composite?