Losi mini B 1/16th 2wd buggy
#406
A lot of new and awesome TLR parts coming soon. Really excited about the sway bars, towers, shocks, and pivot set. This stuff in my opinion is long overdue and I'm a pretty happy camper that Losi is releasing these parts.
New Parts!!!
New Parts!!!
#407
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
I currently have the brushed Mini-B...although, I did upgrade it, a while back, with a brushless system. At the same time, I am considering picking up the new Mini-B V2 (undecided whether to get the RTR, or the Pro Roller). In the meantime, I have four questions I'm hoping people will have answers to (especially the first one):
1) The stock SX107/SX108 servo have specs of 41.8oz/in of torque, and a speed of 0.08sec, both at 6.0V. Reefs has two micro servos - 99 Micro & 179 Smart Brushless Micro - whose specs are 89oz/in & 0.11sec, and 135oz/in & 0.09sec, respectively, also at 6.0V. The torque of these are more than 2x, and almost 3.25x, respectively, that of the stock servo. Knowing this, WHY would Reefs "recommend" using the 179 in the Mini-B (and Mini-T 2.0), as opposed to the 99? (NOTE: Both 99 & 179 have identical dimensions).
2) As an 'upgrade' over the stock SX107/SX108, Losi does recommend their SX117, which does have a metal case (it also has metal gears, like the SX108)...but, I have been unable to find any specs for the SX117. Does anyone know what the specs are for this servo...and, is it any better than the SX108?
Before I get to the last two questions, I first have some 'info', for which I will be using the front shocks for my examples. The V2 RTR comes with the same LOS213000 plastic shocks that the V1 (ie. brushed) came with. However, the Pro Roller claims to come with 5 "popular upgrades" pre-installed, including the 'upgrade' aluminum shocks, LOS314004. However, in checking out the "optional" parts listed for the RTR, these shocks are not even listed. Instead of the (supposed) 'upgrade' LOS134004 shocks, I find listed a different set of shocks, with a completely different part number, TLR313000. Both (ie. LOS314004 & TLR313000) have aluminum bodies & caps, and the LOS314004 appears to have an aluminum pre-load adjustment ring...but, that's where any similarities appear to end.
3) What are the differences & similarities between the LOS314004 & TLR313000 shocks?
4) This is aimed at anyone who has owned/used both shocks - is there any noticeable difference between the LOS314004 & TLR313000 shocks...and, if I were to get the Pro Roller (which comes with the LOS314004 shocks), is it truly worth it to upgrade to the TLR313000 shocks?
The primary reasons for these questions is to help me decide whether to get the RTR, or the Pro Roller.
1) The stock SX107/SX108 servo have specs of 41.8oz/in of torque, and a speed of 0.08sec, both at 6.0V. Reefs has two micro servos - 99 Micro & 179 Smart Brushless Micro - whose specs are 89oz/in & 0.11sec, and 135oz/in & 0.09sec, respectively, also at 6.0V. The torque of these are more than 2x, and almost 3.25x, respectively, that of the stock servo. Knowing this, WHY would Reefs "recommend" using the 179 in the Mini-B (and Mini-T 2.0), as opposed to the 99? (NOTE: Both 99 & 179 have identical dimensions).
2) As an 'upgrade' over the stock SX107/SX108, Losi does recommend their SX117, which does have a metal case (it also has metal gears, like the SX108)...but, I have been unable to find any specs for the SX117. Does anyone know what the specs are for this servo...and, is it any better than the SX108?
Before I get to the last two questions, I first have some 'info', for which I will be using the front shocks for my examples. The V2 RTR comes with the same LOS213000 plastic shocks that the V1 (ie. brushed) came with. However, the Pro Roller claims to come with 5 "popular upgrades" pre-installed, including the 'upgrade' aluminum shocks, LOS314004. However, in checking out the "optional" parts listed for the RTR, these shocks are not even listed. Instead of the (supposed) 'upgrade' LOS134004 shocks, I find listed a different set of shocks, with a completely different part number, TLR313000. Both (ie. LOS314004 & TLR313000) have aluminum bodies & caps, and the LOS314004 appears to have an aluminum pre-load adjustment ring...but, that's where any similarities appear to end.
3) What are the differences & similarities between the LOS314004 & TLR313000 shocks?
4) This is aimed at anyone who has owned/used both shocks - is there any noticeable difference between the LOS314004 & TLR313000 shocks...and, if I were to get the Pro Roller (which comes with the LOS314004 shocks), is it truly worth it to upgrade to the TLR313000 shocks?
The primary reasons for these questions is to help me decide whether to get the RTR, or the Pro Roller.
#408
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
1) The stock SX107/SX108 servo have specs of 41.8oz/in of torque, and a speed of 0.08sec, both at 6.0V. Reefs has two micro servos - 99 Micro & 179 Smart Brushless Micro - whose specs are 89oz/in & 0.11sec, and 135oz/in & 0.09sec, respectively, also at 6.0V. The torque of these are more than 2x, and almost 3.25x, respectively, that of the stock servo. Knowing this, WHY would Reefs "recommend" using the 179 in the Mini-B (and Mini-T 2.0), as opposed to the 99? (NOTE: Both 99 & 179 have identical dimensions).
I killed my stock servo racing on carpet, and replaced it with the Reefs 179. I went with the 179 over the 99, as that is what Reefs recommended, but in all honesty, I wasn't terribly impressed. It was better than the stock servo for sure, but for the cost, I was expecting more. BTW, the Eco Power servo from AMain is the same servo as the Spektrum 109, so I wouldn't consider it an upgrade.
2) As an 'upgrade' over the stock SX107/SX108, Losi does recommend their SX117, which does have a metal case (it also has metal gears, like the SX108)...but, I have been unable to find any specs for the SX117. Does anyone know what the specs are for this servo...and, is it any better than the SX108?
3) What are the differences & similarities between the LOS314004 & TLR313000 shocks?
4) This is aimed at anyone who has owned/used both shocks - is there any noticeable difference between the LOS314004 & TLR313000 shocks...and, if I were to get the Pro Roller (which comes with the LOS314004 shocks), is it truly worth it to upgrade to the TLR313000 shocks?
4) This is aimed at anyone who has owned/used both shocks - is there any noticeable difference between the LOS314004 & TLR313000 shocks...and, if I were to get the Pro Roller (which comes with the LOS314004 shocks), is it truly worth it to upgrade to the TLR313000 shocks?
Hope that helps!
#409
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
In my experience, most manufacturers often put the 'cheapest' servo possible. I don't mean that in a negative way, but what I mean is the most minimal servo you can put in there and 'work'. That doesn't necessarily mean work 'best' or work 'good', but just work. I killed my stock servo racing on carpet, and replaced it with the Reefs 179. I went with the 179 over the 99, as that is what Reefs recommended, but in all honesty, I wasn't terribly impressed. It was better than the stock servo for sure, but for the cost, I was expecting more. BTW, the Eco Power servo from AMain is the same servo as the Spektrum 109, so I wouldn't consider it an upgrade. I don't have the specs, but as a general rule, I don't use other RTR servos, as they are the same type of minimally adequate as noted above. I don't have experience with the 117, but I've done similar things in the past and regretting doing so.
The TLR313000 shocks have a bleeder screw for bleeding the oil. I'm not 100% certain, but they may have a top cap too, instead of having to remove the entire lower cartridge like the LOS shocks. The LOS314004 shocks have no bleeder screw, and in order to swap oils, you have to remove the lower cartridge, and bleed the oil as you screw in the cartridge. Its a royal PITA, and a bleeder is very welcomed if you're swapping oil regularly. I would be doing the swap if I still had my Mini B, but I was also racing and regularly changing oils. Hope that helps!
The TLR313000 shocks have a bleeder screw for bleeding the oil. I'm not 100% certain, but they may have a top cap too, instead of having to remove the entire lower cartridge like the LOS shocks. The LOS314004 shocks have no bleeder screw, and in order to swap oils, you have to remove the lower cartridge, and bleed the oil as you screw in the cartridge. Its a royal PITA, and a bleeder is very welcomed if you're swapping oil regularly. I would be doing the swap if I still had my Mini B, but I was also racing and regularly changing oils. Hope that helps!
As for the LOS314004 shocks, I know exactly what you're referring to when you say "you have to remove the lower cartridge, and bleed the oil as you screw in the cartridge"...and, yes, those type of shocks ARE a PitA. Thus, if that's what the LOS314004 shocks are like, then the TLR313 000 shocks seem like the most likely to get. I'll have to do a 'cost comparison' to determine whether the RTR or Pro Roller is the better way to go...it's not always "one", or "the other". In the case of some, getting/upgrading an RTR is better...and, in other cases, getting a roller is better. Will try to 'determine' on my next day off.
#410
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
I did an RTR vs Pro Roller "price comparison"...and, interestingly, the results were not what I expected. I should also mention that, in regards to my "comparison", the list currently contains every upgrade option part available (mostly Losi/TLR, but also some from Hot Racing & MIP), and is NOT meant to be a realistic upgrade path - as I determine which upgrade parts are required, which are "wanted, but not needed", and which are truly unnecessary, I will be 'refining' my list.
Of course, as could be expected, the results are completely different depending on which ESC/motor you go with. For the purpose of my current comparison, I stuck with the OEM Spektrum 2-in-1 ESC/motor for the RTR...and I used the Furitek Speed Cat 30A/50A Sensored ESC w/ Bluetooth Combo & Kraken brushless 6700kv motor for the Pro Roller (another option would be to go with the Castle Mamba Micro X2 ESC & 5300kv motor combo (which adds $15 to the total cost), and use a larger pinion...but, more on that in a bit). Also, for both lists, I 'replaced' the included shocks with the TLR313000 & TLR313001 shocks (plus tuning springs for front & rear). For certain upgrades, I had 2 options (Losi/TLR & Hot Racing), and for one upgrade (servo), I had 3 (2 from Reefs, and 1 from NSDRC). In both (RTR & Pro Roller), knowing that I'll be swapping out the Spektrum Rx, I included $35 for a Flysky FGr4S.
With all the same upgrades, except for the Furitek ESC & motor (which was only included in the Pro Roller list), the RTR came in $67 less than the Pro Roller. For those considering a Mini-B V2 Brushless, planning/wanting to install upgrades right out of the box, and trying to decide between the RTR & Pro Roller, if you plan on sticking with the Spektrum 2-in-1 ESC/motor, the RTR will be the less costly way to go, saving you as much as $67. Depending on whether you're only planning on installing a few upgrades, or the majority of the upgrades available, the $67 difference can be 'huge' (if you're only installing a few options), or 'minor' (if you're installing every upgrade available). However, if you know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that you will be replacing the Spektrum ESC/motor with something else, then you might as well get the Pro Roller, and build up from that.
Final things to note, specifically in comparing the Furitek Speed Cat & Castle Mamba Micro X2: First, between the two, the Furitek Speed Cat is smaller ESC (31x19mm vs 41.6x29.4mm)...the Castle is more than double the size of the Furitek. At the same time, the Mamba Micro X2 is 3S capable, while the Speed Cat is only 2S. As for the BES, the Castle has a 2A BEC, whereas the Amperage of the Furitek BEC is unknown. Conversely, while Furitek clearly states the Speed Cat as outputting 30A constant/50A burst, Castle doesn't publish such information (unfortunately, which is their normal SOP). If anyone has personal experience with the Furitek Speed Cat ESC & Kraken brushless 6700kv motor, I'm sure others would be very interested in knowing how they perform.
Of course, as could be expected, the results are completely different depending on which ESC/motor you go with. For the purpose of my current comparison, I stuck with the OEM Spektrum 2-in-1 ESC/motor for the RTR...and I used the Furitek Speed Cat 30A/50A Sensored ESC w/ Bluetooth Combo & Kraken brushless 6700kv motor for the Pro Roller (another option would be to go with the Castle Mamba Micro X2 ESC & 5300kv motor combo (which adds $15 to the total cost), and use a larger pinion...but, more on that in a bit). Also, for both lists, I 'replaced' the included shocks with the TLR313000 & TLR313001 shocks (plus tuning springs for front & rear). For certain upgrades, I had 2 options (Losi/TLR & Hot Racing), and for one upgrade (servo), I had 3 (2 from Reefs, and 1 from NSDRC). In both (RTR & Pro Roller), knowing that I'll be swapping out the Spektrum Rx, I included $35 for a Flysky FGr4S.
With all the same upgrades, except for the Furitek ESC & motor (which was only included in the Pro Roller list), the RTR came in $67 less than the Pro Roller. For those considering a Mini-B V2 Brushless, planning/wanting to install upgrades right out of the box, and trying to decide between the RTR & Pro Roller, if you plan on sticking with the Spektrum 2-in-1 ESC/motor, the RTR will be the less costly way to go, saving you as much as $67. Depending on whether you're only planning on installing a few upgrades, or the majority of the upgrades available, the $67 difference can be 'huge' (if you're only installing a few options), or 'minor' (if you're installing every upgrade available). However, if you know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that you will be replacing the Spektrum ESC/motor with something else, then you might as well get the Pro Roller, and build up from that.
Final things to note, specifically in comparing the Furitek Speed Cat & Castle Mamba Micro X2: First, between the two, the Furitek Speed Cat is smaller ESC (31x19mm vs 41.6x29.4mm)...the Castle is more than double the size of the Furitek. At the same time, the Mamba Micro X2 is 3S capable, while the Speed Cat is only 2S. As for the BES, the Castle has a 2A BEC, whereas the Amperage of the Furitek BEC is unknown. Conversely, while Furitek clearly states the Speed Cat as outputting 30A constant/50A burst, Castle doesn't publish such information (unfortunately, which is their normal SOP). If anyone has personal experience with the Furitek Speed Cat ESC & Kraken brushless 6700kv motor, I'm sure others would be very interested in knowing how they perform.
#412
Tech Apprentice
The Pro Roller is this version: https://www.losi.com/product/1-16-mi.../LOS01025.html. You can purchase direct from Losi, but also AMain has them available https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-mi...01025/p1383032. Your local hobby shop may also.
#414
Tech Apprentice
They’ve not yet announced or released an updated pro roller. The brushless RTRs are the only SKUs that we know have the upgraded parts. I thought of the same situation when I bought my pro roller a couple months ago. I bought the V2 transmission case for my pro roller and added it to mine so I could use the new sway bars. It’s about $6. While there are rod end parts available (LOSI214016), I don’t believe they specify they are updated or not. Could just be a running change rather than a different part number, so trial and error if the set you’d buy are updated. I’ve been fortunate on my Mini T & B in that the rod ends have held fairly well, so perhaps mine had a running change to the rod ends.
The pro roller does include the wheels/tires (BK Bar in rear and the taper pin in front), just like the brushed RTR. Those tires aren’t bad for carpet racing (and in several places are the only legal tires outside of open mod classes). The brushless RTR includes the dirt tires (pins in rear & ribs in front).
The pro roller does include the wheels/tires (BK Bar in rear and the taper pin in front), just like the brushed RTR. Those tires aren’t bad for carpet racing (and in several places are the only legal tires outside of open mod classes). The brushless RTR includes the dirt tires (pins in rear & ribs in front).
#416
Tech Apprentice
Greg from RC Driver in his review of the new brushless Mini B highlighted the ball cups were revised. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bl80hSZrqww
#417
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
A couple of years ago I bought a highly modified Mini B buggy from a forum member here. I've run that buggy a handful of times around my back yard track and like it very much. I also have a Mini-T 2.0 truck. I've decided I'd like to upgrade the truck with the same options as the buggy. Now here's where I'm a little confused. With all the spares I received with the buggy there is a fully assembled ball diff. I've assumed that an MIP ball diff is what is installed in the car. I've attached a couple of pictures of the spare ball diff. Can anyone tell if this is an MIP diff? If so I'll put that in my truck. It does look like a slightly different design which which makes me wonder what diff is in the car and what diff is in the bag. Can anyone identify the diff in these photos? Thanks
#418
That is not an MIP Ball Diif and it's not a Losi Ball Diff. I've never seen MIP use blue pressure(?) plates and that is not the type of nut MIP uses. My guess is that ball diff was made/sold by GPM, Integy, Atomic, or 3Racing, I would also bet that it's a ball diff for the Mini T 1.0, so finding out exactly what it is may be a challenge if someone here can't identify it.
#419
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
That is not an MIP Ball Diif and it's not a Losi Ball Diff. I've never seen MIP use blue pressure(?) plates and that is not the type of nut MIP uses. My guess is that ball diff was made/sold by GPM, Integy, Atomic, or 3Racing, I would also bet that it's a ball diff for the Mini T 1.0, so finding out exactly what it is may be a challenge if someone here can't identify it.
#420
Okay thanks. What's odd about that diff is there's no means of locking the adjustment screw. That silver nut it's just a straight thread all the way through. I don't think loctiting something like that is a good engineering design. If it would by some unlikely chance fit in my truck I'd have to find a way to make that nut a locking one. Since I have nothing to lose, maybe slightly crush the nut before assembling it
Regarding the nut, sounds like a trip to the hardware store is in your future.