3035LikesMini-96 World Challenge
05-30-2024 | 03:33 AM
#2206
Tech Apprentice
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 81
From: Baden/Württemburg Germany
Hey Hey
Thanks for the Welcome guys some friends and I are itching to run the M96WC, but don’t have the room to setup a track, I’m running on the 30cm L another guy has a homemade track, plus we’ve 3 big tracks in the area.
Ronny I’ve no problem with the printed rims as a matter of fact they run great, my Bro just printed a new 2 color set for the Jomurema body I picked up.
Drew I feel almost as if I know you ( I read this entire M96WC post from number one till now),we’ve a lot in common with back problems, Enjoy Folks we’re trying to figure out a way to run with y’all
Ronny I’ve no problem with the printed rims as a matter of fact they run great, my Bro just printed a new 2 color set for the Jomurema body I picked up.
Drew I feel almost as if I know you ( I read this entire M96WC post from number one till now),we’ve a lot in common with back problems, Enjoy Folks we’re trying to figure out a way to run with y’all
05-30-2024 | 10:52 AM
#2207
Thank's
05-30-2024 | 11:29 AM
#2208
Good question, and welcome CrazyRonny!
The front end slop is to me the biggest drawback to the Mini-Z platform, though once you accept it, and learn how the car drives it isn't too bad. I have tried both Kyosho and PN king pins, both metal and Delrin/Teflon, and the tightest fit for me has been the Delrin. And if going with a Wide front end the PN Alum Lower Arm is NICE! I also like the Kyosho carbon fiber front end braces. They make it a pain to change springs, but seems to tighten things up a bit. Good Bearings help too. You get a lot of slop in bearings at this scale. I like Avid Bearings and get the best performance on 3mm shaft front knuckles like PN Low Down Knuckles.
I'm about to try a PN Alu Tie Rod to see if they help any, but doing all of this tightens up things some, but there's still A LOT compared to larger scale RC I've been involved with. I have almost pulled the trigger on a PN AA Arm front end, and those who have them say they are pretty tight, but you still get the slop between the servo arm, tie rod, and knuckles, which is where most of the side to side slop is.
I'm no Engineer, so I have wondered if the slop is built in to calm down the twitchiness in the steering. Those with the 28th scale pan type cars can chime in weather or not the tight tolerances of those kits help or hurt with control.
As for the tracking left to right, yes they all seem to do it somewhat, though my PN 2.5W chassis seems to do it the least and only under very hard throttle input. You can dial out most of it with a CPU Radio. Speaking of Radios the best thing I have bought for my 4 Mini-z's is a Noble NB4! You can do so much with them, and they make you feel much more connected to the car!
PoorBoy has a lot of cars with many different frontends, and can tell you the plus and minuses of them. I really want the PN AA Arm front end for the ability to easily and quickly adjust it for different track layouts, but the cost has kept me from getting one, yet.
Hope this helps, Drew
The front end slop is to me the biggest drawback to the Mini-Z platform, though once you accept it, and learn how the car drives it isn't too bad. I have tried both Kyosho and PN king pins, both metal and Delrin/Teflon, and the tightest fit for me has been the Delrin. And if going with a Wide front end the PN Alum Lower Arm is NICE! I also like the Kyosho carbon fiber front end braces. They make it a pain to change springs, but seems to tighten things up a bit. Good Bearings help too. You get a lot of slop in bearings at this scale. I like Avid Bearings and get the best performance on 3mm shaft front knuckles like PN Low Down Knuckles.
I'm about to try a PN Alu Tie Rod to see if they help any, but doing all of this tightens up things some, but there's still A LOT compared to larger scale RC I've been involved with. I have almost pulled the trigger on a PN AA Arm front end, and those who have them say they are pretty tight, but you still get the slop between the servo arm, tie rod, and knuckles, which is where most of the side to side slop is.
I'm no Engineer, so I have wondered if the slop is built in to calm down the twitchiness in the steering. Those with the 28th scale pan type cars can chime in weather or not the tight tolerances of those kits help or hurt with control.
As for the tracking left to right, yes they all seem to do it somewhat, though my PN 2.5W chassis seems to do it the least and only under very hard throttle input. You can dial out most of it with a CPU Radio. Speaking of Radios the best thing I have bought for my 4 Mini-z's is a Noble NB4! You can do so much with them, and they make you feel much more connected to the car!
PoorBoy has a lot of cars with many different frontends, and can tell you the plus and minuses of them. I really want the PN AA Arm front end for the ability to easily and quickly adjust it for different track layouts, but the cost has kept me from getting one, yet.
Hope this helps, Drew
The problem I mostly have with the slope is that the reaction is not always the same just after exiting the corner, as example with this layout when exiting the fast corner before the straight sometime it track straight and sometime (often or most of the time) it have a tendency to dive to the inside, the worst is sometime it exit straight and for no reason I know, in about the middle of the straight it goes sudenly in the inside wall without me giving any input or correction at all. I few of my MR-03 have this problem, all of them have lot of front wheel play, some more than other... I have an MR-04 also and the front end is in another world compare to the MR-03, still new but so much less play, really more precise, pridictable and fun to drive. I ask myself if I should go the PN2.5 and PN front way, but not shure if it's the way to go? is it better than the MR-04?? It will be almost the same cost to upgrade I guess?
I already have an NB4 and most of my MR-03 and the MR-04 are bind to it, at now I used mostly 20 to 25% expo on steering only and always max travel as I like to have more turning capability when needed. I also just bought a used EX-6R to use with my MR-03 ASF and MHS, tried it yesterday but it look like it doesn't work, can't pass true the calibration screen... but this is another story
Thank's for all the info, will continue to look for clues to remove the slope because I don't want to end up replacing all my MR-03 with Mr-04
... And anyway, I will need a MR-03 for the Box Stock Class 
Last edited by CrazyRonny; 05-30-2024 at 12:08 PM.
05-30-2024 | 12:15 PM
#2209
Tech Apprentice
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 81
From: Baden/Württemburg Germany
) he wants to share it so hopefully he’ll put it thingy verse
05-30-2024 | 03:23 PM
#2210
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 856
From: Central Texas
Got my Box Stock chassis running ok, but if I'm not very smooth it traction rolls in the final 90* turn off the straight. It happened once about mid race, but it was close to me when it happened so I was able to flip it quick. I think it was a 8+ second lap. Other than that mistake free, and trying to be as smooth s possible.
Class- Box Stock
Date-05/30/2024
Location- Central Texas
Race Time- 6:16.544 / 376.544 seconds
Fastest Lap- 4.594 seconds
Chassis- MR03
Body- Jomurema
Wheelbase- 98mm
Wheels- F- +2mm PN Blk Dish 20mm / R- +2mm PN BBS Wht
Tires- F- PN KSM Med Low Height / R- PN KSM Soft Radial
Motor- Stock
Batteries- Eneloop 800HV
Front Springs- White
T-Plate- PN #4 Carbon
Motor Mount- stock MM
Dampener (If applicable)- stock top shock
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)- 15K grease Atomic
Gearing- 7t pinion/ stock gear diff
Notes- This is setup very similar to my Stock, but the stock never offers to traction roll, but this TR easier than my 90mm RM chassis! Severe Thunderstorms are moving through now and just dumped 2" of rain, so I'm sure it didn't help! Just tried to be as consistent as possible. Slowing the pace just a hair. It's when I tried to push past a 4.5 second lap I would be on 2 wheels coming through the 90*! Always a work in progress with the Box Stock.
Take Care and Keep it Shiny Side Up! Drew
Class- Box Stock
Date-05/30/2024
Location- Central Texas
Race Time- 6:16.544 / 376.544 seconds
Fastest Lap- 4.594 seconds
Chassis- MR03
Body- Jomurema
Wheelbase- 98mm
Wheels- F- +2mm PN Blk Dish 20mm / R- +2mm PN BBS Wht
Tires- F- PN KSM Med Low Height / R- PN KSM Soft Radial
Motor- Stock
Batteries- Eneloop 800HV
Front Springs- White
T-Plate- PN #4 Carbon
Motor Mount- stock MM
Dampener (If applicable)- stock top shock
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)- 15K grease Atomic
Gearing- 7t pinion/ stock gear diff
Notes- This is setup very similar to my Stock, but the stock never offers to traction roll, but this TR easier than my 90mm RM chassis! Severe Thunderstorms are moving through now and just dumped 2" of rain, so I'm sure it didn't help! Just tried to be as consistent as possible. Slowing the pace just a hair. It's when I tried to push past a 4.5 second lap I would be on 2 wheels coming through the 90*! Always a work in progress with the Box Stock.
Take Care and Keep it Shiny Side Up! Drew
05-30-2024 | 03:41 PM
#2211
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 856
From: Central Texas
Phatz, SORRY to hear you have back problems too! They just plain SUCK!!! Best of luck with any relief you can get!!!
CrazyRonny, Sounds almost like you are having Steering Pot problems with it just turning like that with no input from you. My Box Stock chassis has a twitchy pot, and sometimes when turning slowly it jitters about a mm in both directions very fast. I took it apart and sprayed the pot with electronic cleaning spray, and it helped, but it still gets wonky from time to time. With this chassis I have the Sub Trim 75% to the left to get it to try to tack straight!!! Hopefully one of the other guys can give you some more help. The slight wondering is just something I have learned to live with I guess.
another thing I just thought about is tweak in the chassis can make them act off too. I use the "penny trick" to adjust the t plate for tweak. Youtube has tons of videos that can explain it better than I can try to type it out! LOL
Good Luck getting it worked out! Drew
CrazyRonny, Sounds almost like you are having Steering Pot problems with it just turning like that with no input from you. My Box Stock chassis has a twitchy pot, and sometimes when turning slowly it jitters about a mm in both directions very fast. I took it apart and sprayed the pot with electronic cleaning spray, and it helped, but it still gets wonky from time to time. With this chassis I have the Sub Trim 75% to the left to get it to try to tack straight!!! Hopefully one of the other guys can give you some more help. The slight wondering is just something I have learned to live with I guess.
another thing I just thought about is tweak in the chassis can make them act off too. I use the "penny trick" to adjust the t plate for tweak. Youtube has tons of videos that can explain it better than I can try to type it out! LOL
Good Luck getting it worked out! Drew
05-31-2024 | 05:24 AM
#2213
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 13
Good morning
This is my first participation in the world challenge. I ride with 2 of my friends in his garage. My times are not very impressive but I will improve.
Class-bos stock
Date-05-30-2024
Location- deux-montagnes quebec canada
Race Time- 7:59
Fastest Lap- 5.318
Chassis- mr-03
Body- corvette C8 R
Wheelbase- 98mm
Tires- Kyocsho radial 20 rear 30 front
Motor- kyosho stock
Batteries- speed house 800HV
Front Springs- stock
T-Plate- fiber 5h
Motor Mount- mm
Dampener (If applicable)-
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)-
Gearing- 7t / stock diff
Notes- see photos on Facebook group because I can't yet.
This is my first participation in the world challenge. I ride with 2 of my friends in his garage. My times are not very impressive but I will improve.
Class-bos stock
Date-05-30-2024
Location- deux-montagnes quebec canada
Race Time- 7:59
Fastest Lap- 5.318
Chassis- mr-03
Body- corvette C8 R
Wheelbase- 98mm
Tires- Kyocsho radial 20 rear 30 front
Motor- kyosho stock
Batteries- speed house 800HV
Front Springs- stock
T-Plate- fiber 5h
Motor Mount- mm
Dampener (If applicable)-
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)-
Gearing- 7t / stock diff
Notes- see photos on Facebook group because I can't yet.
05-31-2024 | 10:22 AM
#2214
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 13
the second class
Class- stock
Date- 05-30-2024
Location- deux-montagnes quebec canada
Race Time-7:33:720 min.
Fastest Lap- 5.093 sec.
Chassis- mr-04 evo2
Body- audi r8
Wheelbase- 98mm
Tires- kyosho radial 20 rear / kyosho slick low profil 20 front
Motor- kyosho 4100kv
Batteries- speed house 800hv
Front Springs- stock
T-Plate- fiber 5s
Motor Mount- mm
Dampener (If applicable)- stock
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)-
Gearing- 6t/ ball dif
Notes- see photos on Facebook group because I can't yet.
Class- stock
Date- 05-30-2024
Location- deux-montagnes quebec canada
Race Time-7:33:720 min.
Fastest Lap- 5.093 sec.
Chassis- mr-04 evo2
Body- audi r8
Wheelbase- 98mm
Tires- kyosho radial 20 rear / kyosho slick low profil 20 front
Motor- kyosho 4100kv
Batteries- speed house 800hv
Front Springs- stock
T-Plate- fiber 5s
Motor Mount- mm
Dampener (If applicable)- stock
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)-
Gearing- 6t/ ball dif
Notes- see photos on Facebook group because I can't yet.
05-31-2024 | 01:01 PM
#2215
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 856
From: Central Texas
Welcome feu98!
Phatz, I agree with you on the Jomurema body! My first was the orange one, which I like but it is sprayed with SpazStix primer, paint and clear from rattle cans, which makes it very heavy. It's almost 40 grams with the factory window and wing. I have a Lexan roof, but I think I am going to save it for another green body. They look kind of generic, but they glide off the walls withe ease and accept a wide variety of wheel sizes.
My arm is giving me fits, so we'll see how my runs with my MX5 and 911 go.
Take Care and Keep it shiny side up! Drew
Phatz, I agree with you on the Jomurema body! My first was the orange one, which I like but it is sprayed with SpazStix primer, paint and clear from rattle cans, which makes it very heavy. It's almost 40 grams with the factory window and wing. I have a Lexan roof, but I think I am going to save it for another green body. They look kind of generic, but they glide off the walls withe ease and accept a wide variety of wheel sizes.
My arm is giving me fits, so we'll see how my runs with my MX5 and 911 go.
Take Care and Keep it shiny side up! Drew
05-31-2024 | 01:25 PM
#2216
05-31-2024 | 02:01 PM
#2217
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 856
From: Central Texas
CrazyRonny, I think they are a Grey Area, as they are technically not a Kyosho body, but I ran it as it came out of the box, and it's the closest body I had put together that's not modified ( closest to the box stock rules). I'm working of a few bodies that will be 100% within the rules, but the daily rain has kept me from being able to lay down paint.
On a side note, I usually use super glue to attach the side clips on white bodies because it holds well, while being able to be pried off to adjust the ride height of the body. Well I ran out while starting to set up a new NSX body, so I used all I had, Plastic Surgery. It smells like plain super glue but IT'S NOT! I used a tiny drop in each channel of the clips, and they WILL NOT come off! I actually broke off the front part of a clip trying to pry it up!
So while that's is AWESOME when you want something permanently mounted, I didn't want it at that point! SO my new NSX is stuck at factory height, which I would love to drop it a mm or 2, as it traction rolls easily as it is. I'm going to paint it up and see if I can make it stable somehow.
On a side note, I usually use super glue to attach the side clips on white bodies because it holds well, while being able to be pried off to adjust the ride height of the body. Well I ran out while starting to set up a new NSX body, so I used all I had, Plastic Surgery. It smells like plain super glue but IT'S NOT! I used a tiny drop in each channel of the clips, and they WILL NOT come off! I actually broke off the front part of a clip trying to pry it up!
So while that's is AWESOME when you want something permanently mounted, I didn't want it at that point! SO my new NSX is stuck at factory height, which I would love to drop it a mm or 2, as it traction rolls easily as it is. I'm going to paint it up and see if I can make it stable somehow.
05-31-2024 | 03:43 PM
#2218
BoxxerBoyDrew, ok just want to know because I was looking for them also, maybe should avoid them for my Box Stock then... but as you're entry in Box Stock with it, it honestly change anything for me as it look like even if you use a semi truck as body, you would be faster than me anyway 
05-31-2024 | 04:05 PM
#2219
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 788
From: Central NC, US
May 2024 Box Stock
Class-Box Stock
Date-5/6/2024
Location-Winston-Salem, NC
Race Time-332.4
Fastest Lap-4.15
Chassis-MR-03 FHSS
Body-2012 NSX
Wheelbase-98mm
Tires-PN KS Med fronts glued and trued, Marka V1R15 rears
Motor-Stock
Batteries-SpeedHouse 800s
Front Springs-Kyosho Orange
T-Plate-Kyosho FRP 6H
Motor Mount-Stock MM
Dampener (If applicable)-None
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)-K 15k grease on top shock
Gearing-Stock Gear Diff/7T pinion
Notes-No changes from last month.
Date-5/6/2024
Location-Winston-Salem, NC
Race Time-332.4
Fastest Lap-4.15
Chassis-MR-03 FHSS
Body-2012 NSX
Wheelbase-98mm
Tires-PN KS Med fronts glued and trued, Marka V1R15 rears
Motor-Stock
Batteries-SpeedHouse 800s
Front Springs-Kyosho Orange
T-Plate-Kyosho FRP 6H
Motor Mount-Stock MM
Dampener (If applicable)-None
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)-K 15k grease on top shock
Gearing-Stock Gear Diff/7T pinion
Notes-No changes from last month.
05-31-2024 | 04:06 PM
#2220
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 856
From: Central Texas
MX5 Unofficial Class- The MX5 is running well, but I'm playing with adding/removing weight and at different places to get it to really handle. I backed off the throttle D/R to keep me smooth with my right hand shaky on the wheel, and I ran good and consistent while not the fastest. Only had a few laps out of the 10% consistency monitor on Next Level, and one of those was too fast, and the other few were from wall rubs after having to reposition my fingers on the steering wheel from numbness.
Class- MX5 Unofficial Class
Date-05/31/2024
Location- Central Texas
Race Time- 6:22.846 / 382.846 seconds
Fastest Lap- 4.789 seconds
Chassis- MR03
Body- MX5
Wheelbase- 90mm
Wheels- F- 0mm N PN BBS yellow / R- -1mm W DRX MP1 black
Tires- F- PN KS Low Height Medium Slicks / R- PN KSM Low Height Soft Slicks
Motor- PN 3500kv
Batteries- Eneloop 800HV
Front Springs- PN Purple
T-Plate- Nexx #4
Motor Mount- Nexx 90/94 RM Black
Dampener (If applicable)- PN DDS top Gold/ bottom Purple springs
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)- Dry
Gearing- 12/53 PN Gear diff
Notes- NB4 Steering D/R 100%, Expo -22%, Throttle D/R 86%
Rt hand pretty numb and twitchy, so well see if I can get numbers anywhere close with it in Narrow Class, and with my 911!
Class- MX5 Unofficial Class
Date-05/31/2024
Location- Central Texas
Race Time- 6:22.846 / 382.846 seconds
Fastest Lap- 4.789 seconds
Chassis- MR03
Body- MX5
Wheelbase- 90mm
Wheels- F- 0mm N PN BBS yellow / R- -1mm W DRX MP1 black
Tires- F- PN KS Low Height Medium Slicks / R- PN KSM Low Height Soft Slicks
Motor- PN 3500kv
Batteries- Eneloop 800HV
Front Springs- PN Purple
T-Plate- Nexx #4
Motor Mount- Nexx 90/94 RM Black
Dampener (If applicable)- PN DDS top Gold/ bottom Purple springs
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)- Dry
Gearing- 12/53 PN Gear diff
Notes- NB4 Steering D/R 100%, Expo -22%, Throttle D/R 86%
Rt hand pretty numb and twitchy, so well see if I can get numbers anywhere close with it in Narrow Class, and with my 911!
Last edited by BoxxerBoyDrew; 06-07-2024 at 10:13 AM. Reason: added info
