teh_fox_king

Anyone else done this, spacer swap on the suspension? .5mm spacer on rear mount and 1.5mm spacer on front mount? I've found no clearance issues and the screws snug down really solid now. Plus, it looks great.

Zapped

iTrader: (100)

What servo are you using in his car? The one that comes with the kit has a tendency to not center very well, which is frustrating. If using it, I'd look into the GL titanium servo or a A06CLS servo.

teh_fox_king

Is that inherent in the servo itself? I've noticed there's a lot of slop in my steering, or a lot as far as I can tell; this is my first GLR. I was going to upgrade to the aluminium servo saver and servo mount, and I've been looking for some shims on my front axles to take out some of the play between the wheels and the nut. I hadn't gone so far as to count out the servo yet...

My estimate is that it would cost over $100 for my method, or more. And a new servo is like $60. That's a pretty good amount of savings for the same solution. I'm always in favour of minimal tuning and upgrading, so the servo would be best, if it's really the top solution.

Anyone want to confirm?

EMU

iTrader: (3)

The majority of the standard GL servos that I have used have been good, until they arent... But I typically get 6 months + out of them before the center starts to wander a bit. It can be shorter for cars which use wide offsets, and/or steering angle at the mechanical limits. When I start seeing some centering issues on the servo itself, is when I swap it out for a higher grade one.

To remove some slop out of the axles, shims or small o-rings can work well. If you use 4.5mm alu nuts, reverse thread them onto the axle and the flange with the nylon sleeves over the 3mm shaft by about .5mm and takes out the majority of wheel slop. 4mm steel nuts dont fit over the shaft, so need to be shimmed out.

The majority of slop on the steering of the GLR is in the stock saver. It needs to be somewhat delicately assembled so that the spring does not pinch too much on the centering nub. Thats typically where the slop occurs. Its a noticeable improvement going to the option or GLR-GT saver to remove the slop.

CarmineB

Hey all,

Am finally taking the step up from the mini-z MR03vo to a GLR or GL(R)-GT.

First what is the better one of the 2? For someone coming from Mini-z's
And there is a deal where I live (Belgium):

So you can get both chassis for the same price but for 35Euro's (40ish dollars) you can replace the standard servo with the GL-0820-TG Titanium servo. Is this a valid update or should i be spending the 35 euro's on other updates that are better then the servo one.

Sorry for the what direct message, but am at work so cant type in long post ftm. :-)

Greetings

Sabin

iTrader: (1)

The GLR GT is a decent platform to futz around with, but it does not compete well. At all.

I had to put a brass chassis on and reflex racing's triple conversion to get it to handle halfway decent, but I still have to upgrade the bellcrank to a metal one because the stock one wears out too quickly. The lower control arm ball sockets also wear out too quickly, leading it to seperate during a race.

If I knew then what I know now, I would have gone Atomic for cost and adjustability.

CarmineB

Ow....

And is the GLR also the same? Because they have the T setup in the back.
If it can I would want it to be a GL-Racing car.

Sabin

iTrader: (1)

The GLR? I wouldn't touch the GLR with a ten foot log pole.

CarmineB

What do you suggest then? :-)

chjosi

iTrader: (24)

GLRs are good cars. Stick with what you can get parts and support for.

Sabin

iTrader: (1)

I'd go with Atomic. It's a lot cheaper, it's a lot more tuneable and it's getting pretty popular. Plus, you won't have any premature failures, and you don't have to put in almost a hundred bucks more to get it competitive.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

The GLR is arguably the most cost effective platform to start with. It can be competitive outside of the top level of the racers in the scale. I drove this platform for SS from about 2019-2022 when I switched to the GT. My SS car had minimal options and was very competitive for the time. I would guess 2-3 tenths off my pace on newer platforms. I think it could be moderately competitive today, with just front springs, brass chassis, side damper pistons and 1d front knuckles for SS.

GT, if you can get a Reflex or MWX conversion for the car, its a good option, but at that cost there are other options like ATM MRZ/MRX, MWX R.1 and Reflex RX28. I believe that the aftermarket conversion kits for these platforms are no longer in production now that Reflex and MWX are making their own platforms now.

I had driven the GT with MWX conversion for about a year, and had no major issues other than snapping side links in some big shunts.

GTR in a vacuum is a great car, but when put head to head on a performance level with other platforms, it comes in overweight and still needs $100+ in options to be in race trim. The fact that it is very wide track in both front and rear means that it cant accept 14mm rear tires for mod, or 11mm front tires, and requires the widest bodies in the scale.

CarmineB

Hey all,

After more communication with the store, i have gone for the GLA v2.1 with 5250kv motor. I wanted a car that isnt nervous. (My mr03's are made with smoothness in mind.)
I did this because my team associated B spec car is also 4wd so the store thinks am gonna learn faster with the same platform as in 4wd (because the speed on these cars if you compare it with the boxstock mr03 i race now.)

Also am not competing with it. the only class we have here (in Belgium) where i can enter with a non MINI Z is the open class. There you need to ride 2500kv 2wd or 3500kv 4wd. Maybe in the future ill put a 3500kv in it for a chance to race it.

Also gone for the kit for lexan bodies and the 30k grease for shocks.

What are the first hopups thats to be done to make the car run smooth?
And did i make a good choice?

Thanks for the info you guys shared!

Sabin

iTrader: (1)

EMU: That looks like you had to put a fair amount of work into the GLR just to get it up to a decent competitive level. Bit of a yikes, really. You just made the case to go Atomic or Reflex a bit stronger there.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

GLR is a dated design, It released in 2018. For the cost, it offers a strong value option into the segment, but its not a front running car anymore.

On a performance standpoint, the RX28 cuurently sets the benchmark, followed by MWX R.1 and RTRC RTA, then the ATM MRZ. ATM just released a new platform called MRX, which looks interesting, but isnt race proven yet (still has some settling in to do in the community to figure out the best setup approach). A fully worked out GT would rank around the MRZ level. With GLR under that.

Of course this is my opinion, based on track experience with or against most of these cars, and results at big races.

I had about 7x GLR, 2x GT, 2x GTR, 3x RX28, 1x MRZ in various levels of trim. GLR is not a bad platform, it can still throw down. Its just not the top platform anymore. Having a platform which responds to driving style is arguably more important than which platform it is. Local support when choosing the platform can help decide which is a better option. Running something that you can share data with other racers is better than being the sole operator of a platform.