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GLR 1/27 Scale RWD Pan Chassis

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GLR 1/27 Scale RWD Pan Chassis

Old 11-14-2022, 09:53 AM
  #661  
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Originally Posted by teh_fox_king
The turning radius on the left hand side is also quite sharper compared to the right radius.
You need the turning radius to be the same left to right, when moving very slow speed. To check, I put the rear end against the rail, mark the spot or use a seem, and turn the wheels to max and slowly go nose in to to the rail. Then put the rear on that spot and turn the wheels full the other way and slowly nose into the rail. You want to end where you started. Hope that makes sense. Or you can just turn slow circles left and right and estimate what looks about right.

Some things you can do to center everything is center the servo and steering linkage mechanically as close to straight and equal as possible. Then you can trim the radio center and end points to acheive straight steering and equal turn radius. Make sure to set all trims to center and 100%. If you have to move them excessively to center the car or acheive equal turning radius that means the mechanical stuff is off. Servo's are never perfect center, at least none that ive owned. You want the left and right steering links to be equal in length, so make sure they are the same. You can lengthen or shorten the servo link to acheive a mechanical center, or as close as possible. Most racers skip all the mechanical stuff and adjust the centers with the radio trims. Thats better than nothing, but to have it mechanically centered first makes the radio settings less severe and works much better IMO.

Oh and if the car is pulling one way or the other under accelleration you can usually compensate with the side spring pre-load.
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Old 01-24-2023, 12:03 AM
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GL-Racing announced a new car: de GL-GTR. Looks like its, roughly speaking, a GT-like front with a GL-like back. It will be available in February
https://www.facebook.com/GLRCRACING/...12564928771024


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Old 01-24-2023, 09:42 AM
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Come race your GL Racing cars in SLC!!

Rules, Schedule and Registration info here -----> 1/28th scale RC Car Racing | West Valley City, UT - Official Site (wvc-ut.gov)
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Old 01-25-2023, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ijdod
GL-Racing announced a new car: de GL-GTR. Looks like its, roughly speaking, a GT-like front with a GL-like back. It will be available in February

Hats off to GL, this car marks a big leap forward in general for the scale by intoducing arm ball joints & double bell crank to the front . much lower CG in the back with lowered & conventional top shock location and mid chassis side to side brace all also better on paper....lowered top shock should allow lowest avaiable height pan car body instalation ... in the current market with already many good choices this model checks a lot of desired new to this scale boxes. 28th scale 2WD being unique in on-road RC world with pan rear / TC front suspension combo and this car pushes that idea farthest its gone so far... I run a different brand and will be sticking with that but curious to see how this car will do.


Originally Posted by teh_fox_king

That's probably the most interesting thing I found out. Despite what a lot of people have told me, The GLR, is just simply amazing on asphalt. Coming from the larger classes, I'm shocked. Seriously. Get it off the RCP! Go outside, jack it up to max ride height and see if you don't have an absolute blast. Just SWEEP THE LOT FIRST!!! A pebble at full throttle and it will pull a 90 degree turn, into the curb. Also, get the front bumper, trust me.
For various and arguably obvious reasons I think RCP is a big part of what makes 28th scale special but since as I call it the "big-tack" subject has come up I can tell from first hand experience these cars work exceptionally well on both 10th scale carpet and aspohalt tracks surprisingly even if asphalt is slightly bumpy! On asphalt as good as the car drove with som e KS PN tires the ultimate performance was with foam tires but the rate of wear on foams is very high. Carpet track being always drenched with sauce from other cars cant go wrong with kyosho threaded tires and again also PN KS tires, cars drive as good as best pan cars.

At this time I think big track mini-z racing if persued woiuld be counter productive to expansion of the class by confusing and diluting the existing momentum that has picked up nicely but it should be something for big race event organizers and clubs or tracks to think about in the backgrounds as a possible variety option at some point in the future.
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Old 02-27-2023, 11:23 PM
  #665  
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What's everybodies experience with batteries? I've found the Marka and PN packs to be of a better quality than GL packs; but these are slightly bigger and will not fit every car. The internal resistance of the GL packs is poorly matched, and deteriorates fairly quickly with use.
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Old 02-28-2023, 05:12 AM
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I have noticed similar degradation with the GL packs. One cell starts to rise in IR and goes out of balance.

I charge at 2C (.6A), and leave my packs in storage charge after I use them (3.7-3.8v). I find this helps with the cells maintaining lower IR ratings over the life of the cells.

I have used a few different types of cells besides the GL. Fantom were good, maintained their IR and fit in all cars, but they are no longer in production, so I am testing some different cells to replace them.

Currently, I am using some Gens Ace 400mah packs from A-Main, which seem more like a 360mah pack than a 400. The connector is not the standard JST-PH that comes on most packs, so I replace with the Deans Micro 3 pin. So far, I like it.

I have also been testing the GNB 350mah cells, which are a tiny bit longer than the GL, but fit in the GLR. I needed some cells quickly, and Amazon had 2 day delivery of them. I trim a tiny bit of the thick heatshrink that is around where the wire comes out of the end, otherwise it makes it difficult for the battery compartment door to close, and pinches against the side link. The lead is shorter than most in the scale, but uses the PH connector so is what I have been using in combination with the GL v1.2 ESC with integrated PH connector. Overall, I think its above average, and the IR numbers are consistent. It is a little bit of a tight fit on the GLR, so the trimming of the heatshrink is necessary to drop in to the car.

I still need to get some Reflex cells to try, as these are slightly smaller than the GNB by 1mm in 2 dimensions, with a longer lead. This may be a more drop in solution, similar in dimension to the Marka, and PN though... so I think this is what the scale is settling in on for the standard as capacity vs dimension settles.

The Gens Ace 400 is a little shorter, and narrower, but about .5-1mm taller than most of the other packs described. I think most cars are moving towards the rubber band style battery compartment systems, which I believe are about 45mm apart. Many older cars have aftermarket updates to allow (GLR/GT/MRZ), and all of the new cars now come with this style battery compartment.
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Old 02-28-2023, 06:43 AM
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Somehow it doesn't encourage me. I don't know what this information means.
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Old 02-28-2023, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by EMU
I have also been testing the GNB 350mah cells, which are a tiny bit longer than the GL, but fit in the GLR. I needed some cells quickly, and Amazon had 2 day delivery of them. I trim a tiny bit of the thick heatshrink that is around where the wire comes out of the end, otherwise it makes it difficult for the battery compartment door to close, and pinches against the side link. The lead is shorter than most in the scale, but uses the PH connector so is what I have been using in combination with the GL v1.2 ESC with integrated PH connector. Overall, I think its above average, and the IR numbers are consistent. It is a little bit of a tight fit on the GLR, so the trimming of the heatshrink is necessary to drop in to the car.
I've had quite an ok experience with GL batteries so far and didn't face any failures due to IR. I started using a batch of GNB few months back. Similarly, I had to cut off the thick heat shrink that was jutting out at the sides to fit the GLR. I was told that the GNB has less punch than GL/ Marka batteries but I'm not a pro racer (newbie actually), so the difference to me seems small and manageable.
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Old 03-01-2023, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by AlvBo
I've had quite an ok experience with GL batteries so far and didn't face any failures due to IR. I started using a batch of GNB few months back. Similarly, I had to cut off the thick heat shrink that was jutting out at the sides to fit the GLR. I was told that the GNB has less punch than GL/ Marka batteries but I'm not a pro racer (newbie actually), so the difference to me seems small and manageable.
The GNB cells feel punchy enough to me. I cant really notice much difference between the GNB, Gens Ace, or Fantom packs. While the Gens Ace pack is rated at 400mah, I feel that it is similar to the 350/360 range in actual performance and voltage drop per mAh used... I have Tattu 450mAh packs in my AWD cars, there is more punch and less voltage drop than these 350-400mah packs have (although the size and mass is considerably higher, so cannot fit on 2wd platforms).

One thing that I pay a lot of attention to is the voltage after a run, and how much mAh goes back into the pack when charging before the next run. The GNB I feel does not have that much voltage drop with 2500/3500 motors compared to GL over the run when you are on the throttle fully for 90% of the lap. This is similar with the Gens Ace as well. Fantom are discontinued, so I really only run them in mod classes now until I replace with new cells.

My GL packs were pretty good at first but after 10-15 cycles, I noticed a big drop in performance as the IR started rising, so I dont use them much anymore other than practice packs now and havent purchased new ones of them in a while since I feel that they just dont last as long as other packs that I have used.
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Old 03-04-2023, 09:51 PM
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So... I picked up a GLR GT kit not too long ago, raced it and I like it. I'd like to take it in the direction of using LMP lexan bodyshells. Anyone know what parts I need to change it over?
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Old 03-05-2023, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Sabin
So... I picked up a GLR GT kit not too long ago, raced it and I like it. I'd like to take it in the direction of using LMP lexan bodyshells. Anyone know what parts I need to change it over?
Reflex Racing LMP3 body kit with front bumper.
https://www.reflexracing.net/RAD001-...y-_p_3042.html

Depending on what rear shock configuration you have on the car, you may need the GL option side body post mount (GL-GT-OP-012) for standard shock configuration. Or if you use the Reflex conversion for the GT, then the posts will mount directly to the side damper attachment. (RX-505 or RX-502)
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Old 03-05-2023, 12:48 PM
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Thank you very much.
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Old 03-23-2023, 02:15 PM
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Hello friends I'm about to finish my first two small scalers, two glr's... I'm this close to being done except I can't screw the wheel nuts on because I just don't have a tool that fits it seems... Is there a kind sold who can tell me what dimension these are please?

Thank you!

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Old 03-23-2023, 02:20 PM
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The standard wheelnut is 4.5mm, there are 4mm hex options as well.
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Old 03-23-2023, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by EMU
The standard wheelnut is 4.5mm, there are 4mm hex options as well.
Thanks... That's what I was thinking and I bought the ,gt55 4.0/4.5mm nut driver for it... But it looks like it's too small...

Now that I'm looking at it, there is no hex machined in my gt55 but driver... It's purely cylindrical inside the tube 😳
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