Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Micro and Mini Scales
GLR 1/27 Scale RWD Pan Chassis >

GLR 1/27 Scale RWD Pan Chassis

Like Tree275Likes

GLR 1/27 Scale RWD Pan Chassis

Old 03-23-2023, 02:36 PM
  #676  
EMU
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
EMU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,580
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

You mean it does not look like this?
EMU is offline  
Old 03-23-2023, 04:11 PM
  #677  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,532
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Lonestar
Hello friends I'm about to finish my first two small scalers, two glr's... I'm this close to being done except I can't screw the wheel nuts on because I just don't have a tool that fits it seems... Is there a kind sold who can tell me what dimension these are please?

Thank you!

Paul
I just got the six-driver Mini-Z pack. Has the allen driver, the nut drivers and a couple phillips head drivers.
Sabin is offline  
Old 03-23-2023, 11:19 PM
  #678  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EMU
You mean it does not look like this?
Mine are just two tubes... They forgot to machine the hex....

No hex...
Lonestar is offline  
Old 03-30-2023, 07:47 AM
  #679  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Someone kindly offered me one of these finger plastic Mini-z wrench so I could start playing with my micros... so far so good (I have also received a replacement tool from the shop yesterday).

We have 2 cars, one for my son one for me, so we can practice together. Both have the same 2500kv GLR sensored mill, and the stock kit servo+ESC. We both run the same Jomurema GT01 bodies, the same reflex 8.5mm+11mm wheels, the same V1RR05 rears and PN Mini-Z KS fronts, the same mid-height ride height rear and the thick shim on top of the kingpin at the front. Our father+son strategy is to get some wheel time with the micros for our main category, which is EP DTM. We built a RCp96-30 track, with a couple of extensions to make it longer (but always 60cm's wide). I will buy a few round curbs, too, because those sharp high speed 90deg angles can be a bit frustrating for a 13y.o.

My car runs ok, tracks straight under acceleration/braking, is balanced, etc. The only issue is the Jomurema GT01 body sitting a bit too close from the rear tires. I glued the body part where it was supposed to be I think, but this barely leaves 1mm of suspension movement before the rears - is that enough? I cannot see any tire rubbing marks inside the rear arches but this could just be because I am not fast enough yet

My son's car is okayish (has the same body/tire rear issue though), because its steering sticks (a bit) and I can't figure out why, I disassembled it x times already and can't spot what is wrong with it. I checked for binding balljoints, inadvertently swapped 2.5mm/2mm bearings, I sanded the alloy post a bit to remove the ano (as the bearings just wouldn't slide in otherwise, same on my car...), removed the shims, sanded the bulkead a bit to ensure the bellcrank ballkoints don't rub on it, removed the top screw that attaches the post to the rx CWF deck, and it still isn't as free as mine. His car also feels considerably dartier, not sure if this is real of just an effect of the sticky steering... Any advice is welcome
(I run a sanwa M17, and he runs a slower KO EX-II, I just purchased an extra sanwa RX so I can try his car with my radio, I suspect the slower response of his setup is also adding to the issue..)

Other than this, I was surprised to see that any damping has pretty much vanished after 30mns running the car, I used 15K AE diff fluid, I will try with diff grease next.

We're having a lot of fun so far - our main objective at this stage is consistency. Speed will come in due time (hopefully). Not constantly tapping boards with these hyperactive little things can be a challenge

Will keep y'all posted. Thanks in advance for any help.

Paul
AlvBo likes this.
Lonestar is offline  
Old 03-30-2023, 08:02 AM
  #680  
EMU
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
EMU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,580
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quick mobile response...

I glue the side clips for GT01 almost 2mm lower, I don't measure exactly, but use tire tape to hold the side clip to the body while I test fit on the chassis until happy with the height for clearance. Then mark, and glue in with 1 small drop of glue before test fitting again to make sure that it is correct and fully gluing in place.

You can see in the pictures that my goal is to have the body flat with the chassis, roughly .5mm higher than the chassis. This is usually what I measure for when installing a new body for a car when gluing in the side clips. The GLR and GT have option carbon side body clip mounts (with an aluminum adapter for the chassis), which you can change the mounting height of the carbon clip holders on the chassis.
GLR-013 and GLR-014 are the part numbers. (4 pairs of carbon holders. They are +1mm, +0.5mm, -1mm, -0.5mm from the stock level for the option holders, 0 for the one with the kit.)

I also use a dremel with sanding drum to shave the window near the rear wheels. In this picture I use the lexan window, but plastic windows will rub the tire much more unless trimmed.


Lonestar, BoxxerBoyDrew and AlvBo like this.

Last edited by EMU; 03-30-2023 at 08:13 AM.
EMU is offline  
Old 03-30-2023, 08:59 AM
  #681  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EMU
Quick mobile response...

I glue the side clips for GT01 almost 2mm lower, I don't measure exactly, but use tire tape to hold the side clip to the body while I test fit on the chassis until happy with the height for clearance. Then mark, and glue in with 1 small drop of glue before test fitting again to make sure that it is correct and fully gluing in place.

You can see in the pictures that my goal is to have the body flat with the chassis, roughly .5mm higher than the chassis. This is usually what I measure for when installing a new body for a car when gluing in the side clips. The GLR and GT have option carbon side body clip mounts (with an aluminum adapter for the chassis), which you can change the mounting height of the carbon clip holders on the chassis.
GLR-013 and GLR-014 are the part numbers. (4 pairs of carbon holders. They are +1mm, +0.5mm, -1mm, -0.5mm from the stock level for the option holders, 0 for the one with the kit.)

I also use a dremel with sanding drum to shave the window near the rear wheels. In this picture I use the lexan window, but plastic windows will rub the tire much more unless trimmed.


Thank you. I wish I had known this earlier, this is exactly what I was supecting in hindsight.. I CA'ed them where they stop upwards. Oh well...

Thank you 🙏
Lonestar is offline  
Old 03-31-2023, 10:17 AM
  #682  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 23
Default

Yeah unfortunately this wasn't already part of the design. With a knife and some patience, you can get the side clips off and reglue them. As EMU said, grinding down that of the windows just above the rear wheels help create more clearance too. You can also use low profile tires. But I'd still try to reseat the side clips.

Originally Posted by Lonestar
Thank you. I wish I had known this earlier, this is exactly what I was supecting in hindsight.. I CA'ed them where they stop upwards. Oh well...

Thank you 🙏
Lonestar likes this.
sammysy is offline  
Old 04-03-2023, 04:08 AM
  #683  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Thanks both. I dremeled the window edges on both our cars and it already helped a lot. I will still try to un-ca the side clips. Otherwise I guess I will just bite the bullet and repurchase two more bodies.

We worked on our track again saturday - my son was getting frustrated in the end and we added a few center extension tiles in the most demanding areas, which made it bit more fun - even if he will likely learn less, I don't want to disgust him!

My GLR runs like a dream, at least for me now. Most friends' cars I had tried where veering to one side when I drove them, while mine accelerate (again, this is a 2500kv, so not that crazy) and brakes straight. My son's car car unfortunately still has a sticky steering feel, it never tracks straight out of corners as it always seems to memorize the last input. I will probably completely disassemble it (again...). In any case, both cars still feel better than before dremeling the rear windows, so thanks again for this

(any suggestion on my son's steering behavior is welcome... )

Thanks!
Paul
Lonestar is offline  
Old 04-03-2023, 04:33 AM
  #684  
EMU
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
EMU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,580
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Unhook the link for the servo to the crank/servo saver. See if there is any tension in the steering assembly once loose. You may have a 4mm screw in the front of the post which can rub on the crank assembly near center (should be 3.5mm in the front side of the post, 4mm on the rear of the post). Also may need to adjust the shim on the post. Try loosening the screw above the post half a turn and see if anything changes.

On occasion, the links can be tight on the balls, and need to be broken in/loosened. If they are tight, a little pressure with flat pliers on the plastic ball cup while installed on the ball can free up the joint.

The original saver is a little sensitive in how it is built. The small plastic nub which is held by the spring can deform when built if not careful, and that will loosen the centering of the saver. If there is any play in the saver assembly, you would need to change the saver or add some glue to the nub to increase the size. The original saver can work ok, but the design on it combined with a relatively soft plastic leaves room for issues to appear either from assembly or use. The option saver is a considerably better design, and I wish that they had updated the current kits to come with this saver.

The last thing to check, is the servo horn. On occasion, the horn can touch the body of the servo. When I build I sand the spline side of the horn just a little to ensure that there is clearance between the horn and the servo body.

TLDR, check for any binding on the steering assembly, any signs of play in the saver. By eye, moving the servo slowly with the radio, the servo should center in the same location.

Many complain of the standard servo having centering issues, on occasion it is an issue, but more of the time it is the steering assembly having a bind in it. My GT when first built was a little tight and exhibited similar issues, but now that it is broken in is completely straight.
RussF and AlvBo like this.
EMU is offline  
Old 04-16-2023, 11:49 PM
  #685  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EMU
Unhook the link for the servo to the crank/servo saver. See if there is any tension in the steering assembly once loose. You may have a 4mm screw in the front of the post which can rub on the crank assembly near center (should be 3.5mm in the front side of the post, 4mm on the rear of the post). Also may need to adjust the shim on the post. Try loosening the screw above the post half a turn and see if anything changes.

On occasion, the links can be tight on the balls, and need to be broken in/loosened. If they are tight, a little pressure with flat pliers on the plastic ball cup while installed on the ball can free up the joint.

The original saver is a little sensitive in how it is built. The small plastic nub which is held by the spring can deform when built if not careful, and that will loosen the centering of the saver. If there is any play in the saver assembly, you would need to change the saver or add some glue to the nub to increase the size. The original saver can work ok, but the design on it combined with a relatively soft plastic leaves room for issues to appear either from assembly or use. The option saver is a considerably better design, and I wish that they had updated the current kits to come with this saver.

The last thing to check, is the servo horn. On occasion, the horn can touch the body of the servo. When I build I sand the spline side of the horn just a little to ensure that there is clearance between the horn and the servo body.

TLDR, check for any binding on the steering assembly, any signs of play in the saver. By eye, moving the servo slowly with the radio, the servo should center in the same location.

Many complain of the standard servo having centering issues, on occasion it is an issue, but more of the time it is the steering assembly having a bind in it. My GT when first built was a little tight and exhibited similar issues, but now that it is broken in is completely straight.
Apologies for not replying earlier as school holiday and the last round of winter sports of the season took over.

I will double check everything you mentioned and report back.

Thanks!
Paul
AlvBo likes this.
Lonestar is offline  
Old 04-19-2023, 03:24 PM
  #686  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
 
RussF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 571
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EMU
Unhook the link for the servo to the crank/servo saver. See if there is any tension in the steering assembly once loose. You may have a 4mm screw in the front of the post which can rub on the crank assembly near center (should be 3.5mm in the front side of the post, 4mm on the rear of the post). Also may need to adjust the shim on the post. Try loosening the screw above the post half a turn and see if anything changes.

On occasion, the links can be tight on the balls, and need to be broken in/loosened. If they are tight, a little pressure with flat pliers on the plastic ball cup while installed on the ball can free up the joint.

The original saver is a little sensitive in how it is built. The small plastic nub which is held by the spring can deform when built if not careful, and that will loosen the centering of the saver. If there is any play in the saver assembly, you would need to change the saver or add some glue to the nub to increase the size. The original saver can work ok, but the design on it combined with a relatively soft plastic leaves room for issues to appear either from assembly or use. The option saver is a considerably better design, and I wish that they had updated the current kits to come with this saver.

The last thing to check, is the servo horn. On occasion, the horn can touch the body of the servo. When I build I sand the spline side of the horn just a little to ensure that there is clearance between the horn and the servo body.

TLDR, check for any binding on the steering assembly, any signs of play in the saver. By eye, moving the servo slowly with the radio, the servo should center in the same location.

Many complain of the standard servo having centering issues, on occasion it is an issue, but more of the time it is the steering assembly having a bind in it. My GT when first built was a little tight and exhibited similar issues, but now that it is broken in is completely straight.
In addition to all of the above and after much frustration on my GLR and especially my GLA I just added servo tape under the servo and it helped tons. On my GLR I ended up removing the servo saver and just use a horn from a GLA.
EMU and AlvBo like this.
RussF is offline  
Old 04-21-2023, 04:47 AM
  #687  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Hi EMU and Russ,

Thanks again for your input.

I have spent two hours yesterday on my erratically behaving son's car on the bench, comparing it with my perfectly docile one.

Things I checked/rechecked/did:
- no binding ballcup anywhere in the steering cinematics
- I dremeled the screw at the front of the steering post so it doesn't stick out at all
- I dremeled the post nudge (that hosts the threads) a bit to make sure it doesn't hit the lower bellcrank
- I already removed the shim (top+bottom)
- I fully disassembled and removed any plastic flashing from the bellcrank/saver assembly. My car's assembly is slightly less 7.7mm high (ie thickness of bearings, plastic parts, springs altogether), my son was 7.85mm, now down to a nudge above 7.7mm. I then faced a bearing misalignment issue, which made things worse for a while... a few more disassembly/reassembly cycles later, things are fine now. I agree it is a finicky design and I will likely replace this by either new OEM plastic parts or optional parts later.
- I sanded the servo arm on the spline side - I believe it was perfect but it didn't hurt to do it...
- I tightened the servo top-case screws as they had come lose a bit. Again prolly not a game changer, but it doesn't hurt.

I tried the car in the living room on the super slippery tiles and it behaved *almost* ok - then again it's hard to judge with zero grip as any imperfection is magnified. I will try it on RCP next.

I haven't use servo tape (you can see by me using this moniker that I've been around a while...) because I'm concerned about flex as I use the CWF chassis. I believe the issue (if any left) lies in the steering assembly anyway for now.

Lastly, I checked the car's differential and it's kind of on the stiff side... while being on a the slippy one, too - in other words, it's crap I will rebuild it too as I suspect this is not helping with on-throttle steering shenanigans...

Thanks again everyone and stay tuned,
Paul
EMU and AlvBo like this.
Lonestar is offline  
Old 04-24-2023, 06:04 AM
  #688  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 3,046
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Update : With the above steering adjustements, my son's car felt much better on our usual RCP track. To proof the concept, I then bolted my car's rear axle (with a diff in proper shape) to his car - and then it felt just like mine, or at least as much as someone else's car with such a different radio (I have an M17, he has an EX-II which is much better adapted to his smaller hands) can feel like one's own ! I will rebuild his diff and he'll be good to go (and I now have a spare receiver for my M17 ) Thanks everyone who helped.

New question from me if i may, sorry if this has been asked before: How to best mount a lexan body on a GLR?
front: I take it GLA-035 is the way to go for the front - can you confirm?
Rear: Some locals told me the GL-0162 CWF rear plate actually can rub on the spur gear - is that truly the case? (I found it suprising). I also some people using GLR-016 mixed damper/body mount. Can you recommend the best way please and the corresponding body posts numbers?

thank you!
Paul

AlvBo likes this.

Last edited by Lonestar; 04-24-2023 at 01:14 PM.
Lonestar is offline  
Old 04-24-2023, 12:35 PM
  #689  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 23
Default

On my GLR with a lexan body, I use GLR-016 to mount the lexan posts just in front of the rear wheels. On the front, I use GL-GT-OP-028 (not sure if it's identical to GLA-035). Regarding body posts, I'm using the posts (longer than 21.8mm) that came with the front bumper in the front, and 21.8mm posts on the side.




Originally Posted by Lonestar
New question from me if i may, sorry if this has been asked before: How to best mount a lexan body on a GLR?
front: I take it GLA-035 is the way to go for the front - can you confirm?
Rear: Some locals told me the GL-0162 CWF rear plate actually can rub on the spur gear - is that truly the case? (I found it suprising). I also some people using GLR-016 mixed damper/body mount. Can you recommend the best way please and the corresponding body posts numbers?
Lonestar, EMU and AlvBo like this.
sammysy is offline  
Old 04-25-2023, 11:07 AM
  #690  
EMU
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
EMU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,580
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I dont have part numbers, but I prefer the side mount for lexan bodies to the rear mount. The rear mount can rub the spur gear, which I typically would shim the plate for the post mount up a little for more clearance (extra 2mm).

I typically only use the tallest post, and cut down as needed.

For the front, I used to use the DXR front bumper, but now they are discontinued since the company is no longer producing parts. Compared to the GL bumper, it is 4-5mm wider, so better protection of the car.
b.wihardja and AlvBo like this.
EMU is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.