110LikesTamiya Direct Drive Touring Car
05-27-2007, 03:58 PM
#1156
Would the veteran F103 drivers please post a list of commonly broken parts we should stock.
And for asphalt (Open track) What pinion spur is most practical. I'm converting to the .4 module as opposed to the kits .6 module because their seems to be more ratios with the .4 .... or at least that I can find on tower hobbies.
Thanks for all your help.
And for asphalt (Open track) What pinion spur is most practical. I'm converting to the .4 module as opposed to the kits .6 module because their seems to be more ratios with the .4 .... or at least that I can find on tower hobbies.
Thanks for all your help.
05-27-2007, 04:31 PM
#1157
These cars are really tough and hard to break. The weakest part is the Lexan Courage body. Other than that....you may want to stock spur gears and pinions. I would suggest converting to 64 pitch. Many of those gears are readily available.
I would suggest a good aftermarket servo saver...which will be a lot better than the stock one that comes with the kit. I like the turnbukle kit and the adjustable caster kit from 3Racing.
As far as setup for outdoor asphalt...I can post mine once I get back to my house and see my car. I run mine with soft rear spring. I have been running CS 27 with red HPI insert in the front and RP 24 on the rear with the yellow HPI inserts. This is the tire combination I was running when the temperature was around 65 to 70 deg F (ambient temp). On a sunny day with track temp around 100F, I switch the rear tires to use CS27 but with the stock blue CS medium insert. It seem to work fine once the tires heat up with a couple of laps into the race. I also used traction compound all theway around. I remember using the front stock springs.
More to come....
I would suggest a good aftermarket servo saver...which will be a lot better than the stock one that comes with the kit. I like the turnbukle kit and the adjustable caster kit from 3Racing.
As far as setup for outdoor asphalt...I can post mine once I get back to my house and see my car. I run mine with soft rear spring. I have been running CS 27 with red HPI insert in the front and RP 24 on the rear with the yellow HPI inserts. This is the tire combination I was running when the temperature was around 65 to 70 deg F (ambient temp). On a sunny day with track temp around 100F, I switch the rear tires to use CS27 but with the stock blue CS medium insert. It seem to work fine once the tires heat up with a couple of laps into the race. I also used traction compound all theway around. I remember using the front stock springs.
More to come....
05-27-2007, 05:57 PM
#1158
Tech Rookie
Thanks Alfie, thought my dif was a little loose!
05-27-2007, 08:52 PM
#1159
No worries.
The arrangement is wideest on bottom (smallest on top), then 2nd washer is smallest to widest, then finally widest to smallest.
Upon installation, you will need to test your diff out to make sure that the slippage is minimal. If it's too loose (listen to the rpm of your motor; going high rpm then drops to low rpm) or too tight (tight being that flooring the throttle give the immediate spin-outs). Either isn't good for the machine and motor. So do check carefully.
Hope it helps!
Alfie
The arrangement is wideest on bottom (smallest on top), then 2nd washer is smallest to widest, then finally widest to smallest.
Upon installation, you will need to test your diff out to make sure that the slippage is minimal. If it's too loose (listen to the rpm of your motor; going high rpm then drops to low rpm) or too tight (tight being that flooring the throttle give the immediate spin-outs). Either isn't good for the machine and motor. So do check carefully.
Hope it helps!
Alfie
Originally Posted by croz
Thanks Alfie, thought my dif was a little loose!
05-27-2007, 08:59 PM
#1160
Front arms. It doesn't break, it bents. The rear hubs, left and right. Do keep a piece or two of the rear drive shaft.
Tamiya T-Bars. They warp too easily. Unless you are running in the TCS, I suggest that you use a better T-bar for practice.
I would suggest using the 48 pitch gears for durability. NOT the Tamiya 0.6 modules, but the common "inches" 48 pitch gears.
Hope it helps!
Alfie
Tamiya T-Bars. They warp too easily. Unless you are running in the TCS, I suggest that you use a better T-bar for practice.
I would suggest using the 48 pitch gears for durability. NOT the Tamiya 0.6 modules, but the common "inches" 48 pitch gears.
Hope it helps!
Alfie
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
Would the veteran F103 drivers please post a list of commonly broken parts we should stock.
And for asphalt (Open track) What pinion spur is most practical. I'm converting to the .4 module as opposed to the kits .6 module because their seems to be more ratios with the .4 .... or at least that I can find on tower hobbies.
Thanks for all your help.
And for asphalt (Open track) What pinion spur is most practical. I'm converting to the .4 module as opposed to the kits .6 module because their seems to be more ratios with the .4 .... or at least that I can find on tower hobbies.
Thanks for all your help.
Last edited by Alfie; 05-27-2007 at 09:27 PM.
05-28-2007, 02:01 PM
#1162
Originally Posted by Alfie
I would suggest using the 48 pitch gears for durability. NOT the Tamiya 0.6 modules, but the common "inches" 48 pitch gears.
Hope it helps!
Alfie
Hope it helps!
Alfie
Which Spur gear works with the F103GT. I thought it was Tamiya specific?
And What T bar for Asphalt do you suggest??
Kevin.
05-28-2007, 02:56 PM
#1163
Registered User
Originally Posted by Solara
the GT is very new to me...and I have never own any previous form of the F103....so I am sure there are THINGS that I don't know about the Courage body and F103GT.........may be the rubber tires, may be I am so used to driving the car like TC....must be something that I can change to make that body work.
Meanwhile, I have to keep using the Courage body cause for the upcoming TCS race...
Meanwhile, I have to keep using the Courage body cause for the upcoming TCS race...
What TCS race will you be attending? I is there one in the Chicago area soon? I watched you at at the Trackside race the day after you built your car. I thought it got better as the weekend went on. I forget his name, but who was that guy that won the trackside race? He looked real fast. Why didn't you set your car like his was?
If the're is a race comimg to the Chicago area I think I will by one of those f103gt cars and give it a try. Plz let me know.
radar... ping...
05-28-2007, 03:04 PM
#1164
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
Which Spur gear works with the F103GT. I thought it was Tamiya specific?
And What T bar for Asphalt do you suggest??
Kevin.
And What T bar for Asphalt do you suggest??
Kevin.
05-28-2007, 10:42 PM
#1166
Hey Kevin,
You got to have the spur gear adaptor to make the Spur Gear work for your F103GT.
The reason for me to change it to Non-Tamiya gear is because I have 48 pitch pinions, no Tamiya ones.
You can use the Kawada T-Bars for Asphalt.
Hope it helps!
Alfie
You got to have the spur gear adaptor to make the Spur Gear work for your F103GT.
The reason for me to change it to Non-Tamiya gear is because I have 48 pitch pinions, no Tamiya ones.
You can use the Kawada T-Bars for Asphalt.
Hope it helps!
Alfie
Originally Posted by bikedoctor
Which Spur gear works with the F103GT. I thought it was Tamiya specific?
And What T bar for Asphalt do you suggest??
Kevin.
And What T bar for Asphalt do you suggest??
Kevin.
05-29-2007, 06:32 AM
#1167
Originally Posted by Big B
You can use damn near any spur gear out there, they are not Tamiya specific, only if you plan to race in a TCS race do you need tamiya parts. A few guys on here have said the Kawada, I think (NOT SURE) that the Associated, and CRC will work as well
They are not a generic spur. On these cars the spur supports a bearing. I believe there was only a few companies that made spurs back in the day.
HPI, Kawada, and Tamiya.
