Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Awesomatix A800/A800R >

Awesomatix A800/A800R

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree2280Likes

Awesomatix A800/A800R

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-29-2023, 11:28 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Awesomatix A800/A800R
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: hanulec
A800R Released March 23, 2023 with two kit versions, A800RA (alloy) and A800RC (carbon)


Mid Motor Content ---

New Part Releases
  • January 2020 - A800-AM24-20 Servo Holder - combine servo holder and steering holder to one single part.
  • February 2020 - A800-ADC Advanced Damper Cup Set - Reduces the amount of rebuild routines. It offers the possibility to A) remove air and B) add oil into the damper without the need of full disassembling
  • January 2021 - A800-BDL - Body Downtravel Limiter, replaces SPR08
  • March 2021 - A800-P138LFA - 38T Pully Low Friction - For Gear Diff
  • March 2021 - A800-P138S-LFA 38T Spool Pulley Low Friction - For Spool
  • April 2021 - A800-C27MMX - Full Length Top Deck for A800MMX
  • May 2021 - A800-C01MMA Alloy Chassis - Battery position is shifted to the front to achieve a better overall weight distribution. Removes short arm holes. New narrower shape
  • September 2021 - A800-C04M1+7.0 Arm - narrows the track width for lower grip levels
  • October 2021 - AM180EVO Single Bellcrank Steering Update - AM180EVO is a direct replacement for AM180M5

A800MMX and A800MMXA Kit Updates
  • AM152/AM24-8 is replaced by AM24-20 in this kit (UPDATE 08.03.2021)
  • P138/P138S is replaced by P138-1/P138S-1 in this kit (UPDATE 25.03.2021)
  • C01B-X-MMA is replaced by C01MMA in MMXA kit (UPDATE 26.05.2021)
  • AM180M5 is replaced by AM180EVO in this kit (UPDATE 21.09.2021)


Below OLD Rear Motor Content ---
Welcome - please help to make this Awesomatix A800 wiki useful!

A800 Information
New Parts
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01-98 - The version of SPR01 springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • June 2016: A800-SPR01S-98 - The version of SPR01S springs with reduced angle of the tips bending. Recommended for using with new SPR02H3 Shock Rod Guides.
  • May / June 2016: A800-AM14A - includes new optional "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A700-AM14-3 - removes the prior "longer" hole on steering arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C04AL+0.5 - 0.5mm wider alloy suspension arm
  • May / June 2016: A800-C01B-2.25 - 2.25mm carbon main plate (best suited for asphalt racing)
  • May / June 2016: A800-D2.2 - Dampers that support a thicker SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H3 - Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper
  • May / June 2016: A800-AT41-2 - Damper vane for the D2.2 damper designed to work w/ SPR02H3
  • May / June 2016: A800-SPR02H - Stronger Shock Rod Guides for the D2.0 and D2.1 damper versions
  • May 2016: A800-AM19-4 - Currently used in the rear of a kit. With AM19-4 the top link effective length is 0,7mm shorter compare to AM19-2. Also with AM19-4 the flex of suspension is smaller ( similar to more stiffer arm and c-hub of normal cars). The screws on dampers are more accessible for adjustment.
  • January 2017 - SPRO2X - new for dampers and do not require a 98 degree bent spring.
  • January 2017 - New A800X and A800XA kits now available featuring 0.3mm longer front and rear wheelbase.
Kit Updates
  • May - Current: Kits now including DT10-2-1 bearing holders for increased side play and durability of the differential and spool.
  • May - July 2016: bearings within kits require oil before use
  • May / June 2016: C01B-AL (Khaki) Chassis with 0.5mm/side wider front arm mounts
  • May / June 2016: 2x ST17-1-S replace ST17 - See page 21 of manual
  • May / June 2016: Updated damper, D2.2, introduced
  • May / June 2016: Thicker Shock Rod Guides for the D2.2 damper included with kits, A800-SPR02H3
  • Jan 2016: GD2 Output Axle (ST31-1) update to use blue foam (P46) instead of set screw (used on each side of Axle after assembly)


Setups
Major Race Wins
  • 2016 Reedy Race of Champions - Modified - Julian Wong
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 17.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 Mile High Championship - 13.5 - Kyle Klingforth
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 ROAR On-Road Carpet Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2015/6 ETS Season 9 Round 3 - Xray Pro Stock Division - Tony Streit
  • 2015 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 13.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Roar On-Road Asphalt Nationals - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 International Indoor Championships (IIC) - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Halloween Classic at the Gate - 17.5 - Brad Johnson
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 17.5 - Sam Isaacs
  • 2016 US Indoor Champs - 13.5 -Matt Lyons
  • 2016 Stock Wars - 17.5 - Mike Gee
  • 2016 Hudy Indoor Championship - 17.5 - Brad Johnson

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-01-2019, 07:59 PM
  #3721  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 10,279
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by JeffC
I'm building a new XAH Evo and noticed the same thing as Bub. All the recent setups are MM... I'm going to run what I've got for the remainder of this season. What is a good setup to start with for 21.5 or 17.5 on CRC with a good groove?
My suggestion would be Mike Gee's from the nygp at 360v2 in October
hanulec is offline  
Old 01-02-2019, 09:28 PM
  #3722  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (315)
 
nexxus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 8,947
Trader Rating: 315 (100%+)
Default

Don't just go for a 'pro set up' and assume it will work, we all have different driving styles, what works for one may be undriveable for another. I tried a Tom Denardis (Aus fast stock guy) set up and I could barely turn a lap, the set up that works for me, usually gets a lot of negative remarks from the self proclaimed know it alls in Awesomatix land.

Start with kit set up and make one change at a time. I find that works best.
JeffC and jlfx car audio like this.
nexxus is offline  
Old 01-02-2019, 11:03 PM
  #3723  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (51)
 
trilerian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lexington KY
Posts: 2,273
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Default

I tested a mazda 6 body against a type s tonight. Mazda 6 mounted as far forward as possible, type s in the neutral position. Very interesting how different the bodies handled. The type s initiates the turn more aggressively, then rolls pretty hard, but also rotates a ton better in the mid to exit. The Mazda 6 seemed very blah, I wanted more steering and rotation. But the track was on a new layout tonight, and the groove isn't quite there. I assume when traction comes up the type s will be traction rolling again. Lap times were pretty much the same with both bodies.
trilerian is offline  
Old 01-05-2019, 05:16 AM
  #3724  
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
 
Mr. Bubby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,178
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nexxus
Don't just go for a 'pro set up' and assume it will work, we all have different driving styles, what works for one may be undriveable for another. I tried a Tom Denardis (Aus fast stock guy) set up and I could barely turn a lap, the set up that works for me, usually gets a lot of negative remarks from the self proclaimed know it alls in Awesomatix land.

Start with kit set up and make one change at a time. I find that works best.
Well said. Thanks you!
Mr. Bubby is offline  
Old 01-05-2019, 03:51 PM
  #3725  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kenyon, MN
Posts: 1,003
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nexxus
Don't just go for a 'pro set up' and assume it will work, we all have different driving styles, what works for one may be undriveable for another. I tried a Tom Denardis (Aus fast stock guy) set up and I could barely turn a lap, the set up that works for me, usually gets a lot of negative remarks from the self proclaimed know it alls in Awesomatix land.

Start with kit set up and make one change at a time. I find that works best.
I do agree that drivers often need a different setup to compliment their own driving. But with a brand new car, I just wanted a starting point intended specifically for stock class motors on black carpet. The Mike Gee setup was a good starting point, and by the end of practice today I deviated from it quite a bit. Very, very happy with this car!
JeffC is offline  
Old 01-06-2019, 10:30 AM
  #3726  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Venice Beach
Posts: 363
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Using the lightweight Racer body running Mod. I like how the body handles a lot, however need some suggestions on how the keep the hood/windshield section from caving in at the end of the straight. I see there is a body support kit available. Is this the best option? Thanks!
LAGuy is offline  
Old 01-06-2019, 12:13 PM
  #3727  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
nogarats's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posts: 72
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

What is the purpose of the AT63 in the Vertical Top Deck?
nogarats is offline  
Old 01-06-2019, 12:26 PM
  #3728  
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 977
Default

Originally Posted by nogarats
What is the purpose of the AT63 in the Vertical Top Deck?
AT63 is the resource to reduce the overall flex of car. More AT63 pieces installed = less flex.
Oleg Babich is offline  
Old 01-06-2019, 12:35 PM
  #3729  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
nogarats's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posts: 72
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Oleg Babich
AT63 is the resource to reduce the overall flex of car. More AT63 pieces installed = less flex.
Thanks Oleg
nogarats is offline  
Old 01-06-2019, 07:23 PM
  #3730  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 10,279
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by LAGuy
Using the lightweight Racer body running Mod. I like how the body handles a lot, however need some suggestions on how the keep the hood/windshield section from caving in at the end of the straight. I see there is a body support kit available. Is this the best option? Thanks!
How fast are you going?
How long is the straightaway?

Have you tried the am05c "front moustache"? I like this better / supports the body better.
Marcos.J likes this.
hanulec is offline  
Old 01-06-2019, 11:18 PM
  #3731  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Venice Beach
Posts: 363
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hanulec
How fast are you going?
How long is the straightaway?

Have you tried the am05c "front moustache"? I like this better / supports the body better.
Not super high speed. Running a 5T on indoor carpet. Straight is around 90’. I can hear the body “pop” at the end. I haven’t tried anything yet. I’m not using C26 in front, so am05c could fit. No one has found the need for a center support post or anything? Maybe that body was a little thinner than the last one. Thanks for the tips!
LAGuy is offline  
Old 01-07-2019, 01:22 AM
  #3732  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,567
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by LAGuy
Using the lightweight Racer body running Mod. I like how the body handles a lot, however need some suggestions on how the keep the hood/windshield section from caving in at the end of the straight. I see there is a body support kit available. Is this the best option? Thanks!
once upon a time, schumacher made an optional 5th body post for the mi4 that mounted on the front shock tower to support the base of the windshield. You don't have shock towers, but maybe you can find somewhere to slot a set screw and thread a body post onto it?
LAGuy likes this.
grippgoat is offline  
Old 01-07-2019, 03:03 AM
  #3733  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 33,024
Trader Rating: 239 (100%+)
Default



I use the “mustache” with the Racer lightweight and have no issues
Originally Posted by LAGuy
Using the lightweight Racer body running Mod. I like how the body handles a lot, however need some suggestions on how the keep the hood/windshield section from caving in at the end of the straight. I see there is a body support kit available. Is this the best option? Thanks!
LAGuy likes this.
Marcos.J is offline  
Old 01-07-2019, 05:38 AM
  #3734  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 10,279
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by LAGuy


Not super high speed. Running a 5T on indoor carpet. Straight is around 90’. I can hear the body “pop” at the end. I haven’t tried anything yet. I’m not using C26 in front, so am05c could fit. No one has found the need for a center support post or anything? Maybe that body was a little thinner than the last one. Thanks for the tips!
Is there any space between your bumper and the front of the body?

The pop is likely the body flexing as your smash the brakes and transfer weight

​​​​​​Unless you on a huge high speed straightaway I don't see a 5th post need
Marcos.J and LAGuy like this.
hanulec is offline  
Old 01-07-2019, 08:09 PM
  #3735  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Venice Beach
Posts: 363
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

I'm going to run the body mounted forward per the guide on Petitrc and use the BSR bumper trimmed to just touch. I'll be able to give it a try this weekend. Thanks for the help!
hanulec likes this.
LAGuy is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.