Correct. If I am at a bigger race and have lots of time I will even put it on the set up station, maybe rebuild the shocks. There is plenty to do if you want or you can do the bare minimum as well. Really prepping tires and a new battery is all you have to do. You run the risk of something being out of whack. It's all what you make of it.

Enjoy.

First race meet last night. I drove quite badly, but definitely easier to drive than the 418 at high speed. We have an up hill right-left at our track and it was much nore stable through this and into the left hand tight sweeper that follows.

Car needs a pull down and rebuild now though. Had a pretty heavy shunt with a stationary car which has caused some minor tweak, plus there is a little too much slop in the c-hubs for my liking. More than the 418 anyway. Might try a different set of blocks also, I was running 6deg before and liked them.

Oh, and it is a lightweight! Race ready with normal weight body and tyres I was at 1330grams! Need to fit some lead!!

Try the square TB04 hubs, 5degrees caster (so in the middle between both tamiya options) but very strong and you can easily shim out the movement.

I'm not a fan of aluminium parts on suspension arms but square stuff is very good quality.

I need to finish my build / review just so busy with real life stuff atm

Yes, I have just finished building mine and only thing I was disappointed with was the slop in the c-hubs.
I had use shims to remove some slop.

This is exactly why I take the old c-hubs have absolutely no play.

Is also in my setup.

Yup, surprised it wasn't mentioned back in the TRF418 thread. I had purchased the newer style C-hub with the bigger DCJ opening for my 418 a while ago and no one mentioned it had a lot more slop than the old style C-hub that came with the kit. Went back to the old setup and way less slop.

Thanks for the info - I might do that myself.

I think the C-hub problem might be a batch one. I have an old (first gen) DCJ hub with no play (or acceptable) and a new one with lots of play. Seems to me the hinge pin hole in the C-hub is a bit too large. Doesn't seem to affect the car.

Hmm. Might have a play around. I've got 6deg (54546), the original 418 ones (54031, first seen on 416?) and some of the first run new 4deg (54580) and then obviously what came with the 419 (also 54580 part #)

I'll compare them all this week. I think not only does it not sit in the arm as nice, the steering knuckle is also sloppy.

I've got plenty of 3mm shims and spacers, should be able to get it where I want to.

What brand spur are you running? panaracer 64p?

Panaracer 64p and Tuning Haus pinions

Those tuning house pinions resemble the PRS pinions I used to buy.. Except they're grey vs black.

Hi,

Are you guys using little red sponge when building damper?(under the cap) If so what benefit/disadvantage it has?
I plan to try it on (medium)carpet with 1mm rebound.

Thanks

No sponge here. Not aware of many that run them. I think it would cause you to struggle to only have 1mm rebound. 1mm is difficult to achieve without resorting to drilling the caps, so I expect the sponge would make it even harder.

The kits don't even include them any more.

Back in the day, those sponges were intended for increasing rebound. The only use they have these days are to act as cushions for dog bones.