Thanks.

Used the Samix alu chassis on my 419 on carpet (high grip). It felt smoother and slower, but I was faster with it (1-2 tenths) and it helped my driving to be more consistent over 5 min (= better race time).


...

How did you guys do to prevent the leaked oil from shock and diff ?

Search the thread. Covered many many times.

Try here for a bit of diff advice...
http://www.thard.co.uk/building-a-trf419-diff/

As for the shocks, I personally prefer the double o-ring route.

Use 2x kit o-rings in each shock bottom, and you'll need to use the original version bottom guide available in 53574 (or cut off the spacer section from the kit ones... not advisable!)
If you add a 0.2mm x4mm shim in there as well (to help tighten the seal) and you'll get really nice long lasting, leak free shocks.

HiH
Ed

Suspension Blocks
 

What is the difference between

Front
1B-1B
Rear
1XB-1E
with 5mm hubs

vs.

Front
1C-1C
Rear
1XA-1E
with 4mm hubs

Last Sunday I had a Club race.

Finished with 5th place but it was my fastest race so far. With 3 finals runs I ended with 5, 4 and 3. The car was very good to drive with a lot of grip. I wanted to change the block from F to E, but the time was not enough, because after a long rain, we did not start until the early afternoon.

Too much grip in the last race and I ended up 2 times on the roof although I still closer to the second.

In qualifying I broke the rear left of the Kardan and ended the run with a three-wheel driving :weird:
Have you broken your`s also??

Let`s race and have fun.

Here is my setup.

Decided to KIV the arm with the stuck screw thread for now and bought 2 sets of spare arms :sneaky:. Guess I don't have that much time to tinker with it right now, but will try to get the screw thread out when I have the time.

Anyway, want to ask a really noob question. I saw a lot of 419's here and also on Marc's that you guys swap out the black hex screw on the top deck and other parts for blue aluminium ones. What good does it bring to the overall car performance other than cosmetics. Because in my case earlier, the alu ball nut broke off because it was not that strong compared to steel ones. What about the difference between the alu and titanium one? Which one is better. For me, I guess I really fancy the blue ones and now considering is it worth the cost to "upgrade".

Cheers

Nice race.

When you said condition was GOOD (after rain), how would you describe the track surface when you were running? Wet?

Had a local club race a few weeks back that I skipped because I got some other responsibilities at hand. The race was ran on a wet day, although they started running when the rain had stopped, when I saw the qualifying results, it seems that some of the usually faster guys did not manage a good Q time. Only later in the mains (when the track has mostly dry up) that the usually faster guys got up to the standard lap times and that is then things change back to normal.

Is there any special or trick setup to get a better lap time in the wet?

Weight saving (20g or so) and lowering centre of gravity.

You can use titanium everywhere. Alloy are lighter (and closer to cheese than steel) but should only be used on the bulkheads, top deck etc.

Be prepared to consider the screws as "consumables" as they do strip easier. If they look a little dodgy, don't use them. If they strip completely, getting them out can be quite the chore.

And resist the temptation to use thread lock, *except* on the motor mount vertical piece and the spool - you never need to undo these.

For me I found sanding the cases level made the biggest difference.

I run red TRF o-rings with TDX 0,3mm shims and it doesn't seem to leak from the outdrives.

Interesting chatting to volker on the weekend, he said they run different o-rings as a tuning tool - and they have been playing with different amounts of oil. He was running 20,000(!!!) and half full by the end of AOC

the double oring does work well. Where are you placing the shim? In first up against the shock body or between the orings? Between would make some sense to have each one mating against a flat surface.

Do you drill your shock caps Ed? I've been doing it lately (1mm single hole), but find I get less time between rebuilds. More air in the oil. Somehow...?

You also change the rollcenter a little bit when changing the toe blocks because the pivot on the upper inner point stays the same. If you change the wheelbase by putting shims for instance you always have let´s say +0.5mm and it doesn´t matter if the suspension is fully compressed or not. I´m not sure if somebody can really notice a difference but in theory it´s not exactly the same.

You change quite a few things. That includes the roll centre, but also shock position (same reason, top stays in the position, lower position moves), same for ARB's too.

The change on the blocks mentioned isn't very big in terms of width (about 0.6mm), so going to wider blocks, but less hub shims will actually make the car narrower (adding 0.6mm of width on the blocks, but removing 2mm from axle hubs = 1.4mm narrower)

Generally, narrower will make the car a little more locked in, and a bit more grip. Wider a bit more stable on entry, and a bit freer on exit.

http://jdandracing.blogspot.com.au/2....html?spref=fb

Some interesting pictures from Marc's and Akio's cars at ETS finale.

Above the previously mentioned new parts (teflon coated ARB links, Roll bar mounts), looks like ball cups using a new material too. Also interesting to note they are both using shorter (non-H5) ball studs in all positions on their cars.

Akio also has black wheel hexes... makes me wonder if they are new part too (wider/narrower)

Fluorine coated ball studs everywhere. All the cool kids are using them ;)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pssdr77ncd.jpg