Tamiya TRF419
#4427
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
Well that’s the RCtech rumour that gets spread around by those that no longer run Tamiya.. have you heard anyone from Tamiya come out and say it? Any word from Fred?
yet since the team disbanded, we have gotten TRF103, TB Evo 7, which are TRF cars.. plus multiple updates to 419x, tons of new update hop ups... so expect a follow up to TRF419
yet since the team disbanded, we have gotten TRF103, TB Evo 7, which are TRF cars.. plus multiple updates to 419x, tons of new update hop ups... so expect a follow up to TRF419
#4429
For anyone that is considering swapping to the alloy gear diff case from plastic
it’s only a 2.4 gram difference between the alloy and plastic.
No anyone that has run the alloy did you really notice a difference on the leaking?
And if you did was it with the alloy pulls as well?
as with a day of testing I found my alloy with plastic pulley wasn’t really any better maybe I did something wrong?
it’s only a 2.4 gram difference between the alloy and plastic.
No anyone that has run the alloy did you really notice a difference on the leaking?
And if you did was it with the alloy pulls as well?
as with a day of testing I found my alloy with plastic pulley wasn’t really any better maybe I did something wrong?
#4430
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
what are you running for orings and shimming?
I have minimal leaking I would say 10 runs diff might be down 5-10%
but if I can get zero leakage I would do what it takes. The leaking isn’t an issue for performance at the slow rate I have but how clean the car would be with zero leaking is totally worth what ever it takes to have zero leaks
#4431
what are you running for orings and shimming?
I have minimal leaking I would say 10 runs diff might be down 5-10%
but if I can get zero leakage I would do what it takes. The leaking isn’t an issue for performance at the slow rate I have but how clean the car would be with zero leaking is totally worth what ever it takes to have zero leaks
#4432
Tech Master
Same here
#4433
#4435
As I have mentioned a few posts back, with xray orings I have zero leaks, not even seepage. I use the large shim kit but with xray orings theyre not necessary as the seal is good enough and the longer path to prevent leaks is not needed. They are more of an interference fit, I would push the oring into its greased seat, put some more grease on top then place the large washer over it to keep it in place, then insert the outdrive while pressing on the washer to prevent the oring from popping out of the seat. I only used 0.1mm on each of the large bevels.
#4436
If im after the most amount of rear chassis flex, which motor mount screws holes i should use?
should i remove the center stiffner completly?
should i remove the center stiffner completly?
#4437
Tech Master
Yes remove the centre stiffener. Also you can run minimum amount of screws in the motor mount. 4 screws in the lower rear bulkhead. (The 2 at the rear and the next two,
You could also also cut the top deck as well. However try the other things first (one by one to see how it goes)
You could also also cut the top deck as well. However try the other things first (one by one to see how it goes)
#4438
Yes remove the centre stiffener. Also you can run minimum amount of screws in the motor mount. 4 screws in the lower rear bulkhead. (The 2 at the rear and the next two,
You could also also cut the top deck as well. However try the other things first (one by one to see how it goes)
You could also also cut the top deck as well. However try the other things first (one by one to see how it goes)
What about the motor mount screws which do i use if i wana keep the turnbuckle and which would i use if without any center stiffner?
#4440
not quite sure what it is to slow rear end action? We race mod 6.5t, i just dont find my car's rear as planted as other racers cars be it tamiya or not..
Im after rear grip as well as high speed sweeper turn on throttle steering