ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Right, I remember you saying it was quite a bit lower than the GX6, and that the bump on the roof is just make it legal height... That is a dramatic change in performance indeed!


Thanks Harold, I really appreciate when people leave comments and contribute to the thread! It has evolved from it's first inception for the M3 Projects, however it seems like as good place as any to post whats going on, and to come back to the BMW's and other interesting cars

Good to hear your feelings on the 4PX, I'm hoping it will help my driving somewhat, and if not it's nice to have anyway

I just updated the firmware from ver1.0 to 1.1. It went with out a problem.




Here is a shot of my LTC-R form yesterdays round of racing


Here was the RunWhatchaBrung VTA class we had yesterday. This was one of the most entertaining races I've seen in a long time with Gary driving my Camaro and Danny driving Jesse's F1. Danny took the lead at the start but Gary kept reeling the F1 in, until he passed, took the lead only to lose it due to an oversteer, then reel the F1 back and nearly take it until time ran out.. Danny was making the tires squeal on that F1 he was cornering so hard! It was a great race!

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

No Toro speed controls have been submitted for ROAR testing.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Are you saying there will be no approvals, anytime soon?

patorz31

Howard, Great Hobbies up here in Canada is sending them in or they are in Transit. I was in the shop when the Shipment from Sky RC came for them to send in.
They are popular up here so they wanted them approved.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

There's the inside scoop

I'm planning my WGT car, just to play around with. I'm thinking the central component location is better than the sides, even though the 10-R5 manual shows to place the components on the side.... Thoughts, comments or suggestions??

I like the central location




Laid out as in the manual

Evo 13

iTrader: (2)

The WGT is looking real good, real good Viper! Have you driven it yet? If so, how would you compare the handling of the 2wd wgt vs the 4wd touring? I'm curious cause I'm thinking about doing Xray X1 f1 car.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Evo. No I have not driven it yet as I'm just laying the chassis out and trying to determine if I should go central or side layout, thus the comparative pictures

I can't say handling of the two, however in the picture of the VTA with the F1, that was a race I was talking about where the clubs top drivers were duking it out with our cars.

My VTA is the TC6.1, the F1 is a Speed Passion. Both had the spec 21.5T motors. With Gary driving my VTA, he was faster than the F1, turning faster laps times, however the back end of the car was not as planted and he spun out, allowing the F1 to pass and take the lead. He nearly reeled him back, but ran out of time.. 2 more laps and the results could have been different.

If this was my VTA car, then I would guess the F1 could not compete against a TC chassis with good tires, running the same motor, in most cases.... The 4wd and the downforce of the body factors better for the TC, of course depending on the track layout, surface...etc.

That said however the 1/12 pan cars and 1/10 WTG cars are no slouches for 2WD cars, and are faster than most TC cars on the same track. Somebody with more experience chime in here as I may just be talking out my butt

DBM

Just going by the results from the Airdrie WCICS event mains, F1 looks to be about 0.4s faster than CTA. CTA cars are very heavy and use harder tires. The 1/10 stock sedans on qts32's were a second faster than the cta cars.
1/12 stock and wgt are very close, with 1/12 being about a tenth faster than wgt at that event. The 2wd stock pan cars are faster than 4wd mod sedans by about half a second.

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

Thanks for the info. I'll be watching for them to arrive.

EDIT: I have definitely been emailing with Great Hobbies. I just didn't know what brand they were going to send.

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

"Soon" is a matter of perspective. I can usually get the testing done within two weeks of receipt, assuming the ESC passes. But the electrical test is only one of several items that ROAR considers before issuing an approval, so there will be an additional amount of time involved, depending on ROAR's work load.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

I got most of it right, thanks Dennis! IA credit to how fast Gary was driving my VTA, he was cranking the fasted laps with it


SO you're one of the main guys that can make it happen Thanks for letting us know.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Well the paint job on the Sweep TC has got to be one of the worst I've done in sometime... Not sure I'll post it unless I can recover. Good thing it's a club basher, I'll drive it like I hate it


I readjusted my VTA car based on input from Gary. He thought it had too much rear droop, and said I could lessen the rear toe in due to the bigger tires wanting to follow more what the front was doing. This was to increase the rear bite, and lessen the somewhat sudden abrupt over steer at times.

So I set the rear toe in to 1 degree, and checked the alignment. Droop was some insane 8-9, He called it Not sure how it got there as I could have sworn I set it to 5. Regardless I set it to the manuals recommended 6 in the back and 5 in the front.

The rear camber was really out as well being somewhere around 8 negative. I set it to 1.5 negative, front and back. Looking forward to how the VTA responds to these adjustments.

I love using these 10mm EDS droop blocks for setting up droop.










1 degree Neg toe in on the rear

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

I 'm not a real big fan of battery tape, and love Velcro straps for holding down the battery. I have the Associated Velcro kit on my TC6.2, and needed to get one for my TC6.1. They are different holders so it's not as simple as just buying the 6.2 for the 6.1.

I had upgraded the 6.1 with Yodog's (R-Factor) Carbon 6.1 battery holder kit. I also had a spare Yeah Racing strap. The carbon holder was too big to slip into the Yeah Racing strap, so I unstitched it, sized it around being able to remove the strap, and restitched it. I like the way it feels, and looks!

DBM

I just finally looked at this thread on a computer rather than my phone. Wow, the display on your new radio looks fantastic!

I'm sure the paint job on your Sweep body is just fine. If it is half as good as your other club basher bodies, it will still be better than any of mine.

I think I see what is going on with the droop on your CTA car. Gary measures droop "over ride height". I think that when he said "8 or 9", that was the number on the ride height gauge with the suspension topped out, which would result in 3-4mm droop over ride height if your ground clearance is set to 5mm. That is quite a bit.
I think that it is an easy mistake to end up with that much droop on a CTA car due to how tall the tires are. When you set the droop using droop blocks and measure to the bottom of the arms like in your picture, it doesn't take into account your ride height or the height of the tires. Since the CTA tires are so tall, you have to lower the car a bunch which results in the hubs being much higher than the chassis plate as compared to shorter tires. This creates a lot of droop travel and an unstable car.
This is also why I like to measure my droop over ride height like Gary does. It takes the ride height/tire diameter variables out of the picture, and also allows droop to be measured quickly since you do not need to remove the wheels from the car.

ViperZ

iTrader: (5)

Ha, thanks for you confidence in me Dennis, but it turned out pretty amateurish, you are much better than this The recovery of it should make it look okay from afar. The upside is after a session or two of racing, it won't matter

No, after that great race Gary asked what the rear droop was. I said it was about 5. He looked at it and said it looked more than 5 and that I should look at lessening it as it looked like a lot of droop to him. I was just saying the measurement at home confirmed his call. It was the measurement at home that revealed it was about 8-9 degrees.

I may have left it when I last set it up with droop over ride height. This must have been the first time I set it up with blocks. I like this as it makes the value from the manual and other setup sheets I've been using as a consistent reference point, as both use the gauge/block method. I think as long as it's done consistently, it's more important than which method is used.... So I say until I stop progressing, then I'll revert to D/RH

Was looking at a few F1 cars today to see if I could join Jesse