How do I increase camber?
04-24-2014, 05:44 AM
#16
you will want something with CVD's and long turnbuckles. I would suggest a VDF chassis as those are going for about 325, but that is really a carpet only chassis, and anything but carpet or brand new asphalt will just destroy the carbon chassis. (you want plastic for road driving)
you really don't need to run such high camber angles anyways, and it really is only necessary for CS or RWD or just for cosmetics
you really don't need to run such high camber angles anyways, and it really is only necessary for CS or RWD or just for cosmetics
04-24-2014, 12:17 PM
#20
The picture of your car helped.
Your problem is that you can't adjust the camber links any more. Here is one possible solution...
If the metal turnbuckle isn't too long (too many threads), you can simply shave down the plastic ball cups where the turnbuckle threads into them by a few millimeters. Basically you are making a shorter ball cup, which should allow more adjustment for a shorter link.
A good example of this is found in the Tamiya M-06 Pro manual. If you go to step 17 on page 12 of the manual, it shows how you have to shorten the ball cup to allow for enough camber adjustment for the car. Here is a link to the manual
(http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcm...8460m06pro.pdf)
- Be careful when modifying the ball cups to leave enough material for the turnbuckle to thread into.
- Be careful to not over-thread the turnbuckle into the ball cup. This will cause the turnbuckle to deform the ball cup (the part that snaps over the ball stud), and cause suspension binding.
- You may need to purchase a shorter turnbuckle to get the adjustment you want. You can also modify the stock turnbuckle by removing threads using a cut-off wheel (Dremel).
- Excessive camber can causing binding with dog bones/cvds or other issues with suspension geometry. You may need to modify other parts to achieve your desired result.
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I would recommend buying some extra turnbuckles (or threaded rod) & ball cups. I would modify the new parts and save the OEM parts in case you want to return the car to stock settings. If you have a hobby shop near you, they should have these parts.
Since you are wanting to modify your car beyond OEM specs, you sometimes need to get creative. This is one of the best parts of the hobby for many people, who like to take something stock and turn it into their own creation. If money isn't an issue, don't be afraid to mix/match parts from other kits (such as caster blocks). Sometimes a part from a different kit will have different mounting points (for hinge pins) which allow you to make the changes you want.
Good luck modifying your car and have fun.
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EDIT:
After looking at your car more, here is one other possible option...
You might be able to move the inner ball stud onto the top gearbox cover. I already see a hole on the top gearbox cover, which I assume is where the shock tower screws onto the gearbox cover. You might be able to screw the ball stud into that hole (on the backside) or make your own hole. It will change the angle of the camber link, so you might also have to space out the ball stud on the caster block.
Basically by having a different position to attach the inner ball stud, it might allow you to use the stock camber links AND get the camber angle you want. Sometimes caster blocks or rear hubs have an inner/outer mounting point which would allow the same thing.
- Note: changing/creating your own mounting locations will have an affect on camber gain/change during suspension travel.
If you go this route, you could change the ball cups to eyelets and use a screw through the eyelet to secure the camber link to the car. Check this link for examples of Traxxas turnbuckles with eyelets on the ends... (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ckle&search=Go).
Note: I'm not suggesting Traxxas camber links as a solution but an example of what a turnbuckle with an eyelet looks like. You should be able to buy turnbuckle eyelets separately at any hobby store, at least in the airplane section.
Your problem is that you can't adjust the camber links any more. Here is one possible solution...
If the metal turnbuckle isn't too long (too many threads), you can simply shave down the plastic ball cups where the turnbuckle threads into them by a few millimeters. Basically you are making a shorter ball cup, which should allow more adjustment for a shorter link.
A good example of this is found in the Tamiya M-06 Pro manual. If you go to step 17 on page 12 of the manual, it shows how you have to shorten the ball cup to allow for enough camber adjustment for the car. Here is a link to the manual
(http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcm...8460m06pro.pdf)
- Be careful when modifying the ball cups to leave enough material for the turnbuckle to thread into.
- Be careful to not over-thread the turnbuckle into the ball cup. This will cause the turnbuckle to deform the ball cup (the part that snaps over the ball stud), and cause suspension binding.
- You may need to purchase a shorter turnbuckle to get the adjustment you want. You can also modify the stock turnbuckle by removing threads using a cut-off wheel (Dremel).
- Excessive camber can causing binding with dog bones/cvds or other issues with suspension geometry. You may need to modify other parts to achieve your desired result.
----------
I would recommend buying some extra turnbuckles (or threaded rod) & ball cups. I would modify the new parts and save the OEM parts in case you want to return the car to stock settings. If you have a hobby shop near you, they should have these parts.
Since you are wanting to modify your car beyond OEM specs, you sometimes need to get creative. This is one of the best parts of the hobby for many people, who like to take something stock and turn it into their own creation. If money isn't an issue, don't be afraid to mix/match parts from other kits (such as caster blocks). Sometimes a part from a different kit will have different mounting points (for hinge pins) which allow you to make the changes you want.
Good luck modifying your car and have fun.
----------
EDIT:
After looking at your car more, here is one other possible option...
You might be able to move the inner ball stud onto the top gearbox cover. I already see a hole on the top gearbox cover, which I assume is where the shock tower screws onto the gearbox cover. You might be able to screw the ball stud into that hole (on the backside) or make your own hole. It will change the angle of the camber link, so you might also have to space out the ball stud on the caster block.
Basically by having a different position to attach the inner ball stud, it might allow you to use the stock camber links AND get the camber angle you want. Sometimes caster blocks or rear hubs have an inner/outer mounting point which would allow the same thing.
- Note: changing/creating your own mounting locations will have an affect on camber gain/change during suspension travel.
If you go this route, you could change the ball cups to eyelets and use a screw through the eyelet to secure the camber link to the car. Check this link for examples of Traxxas turnbuckles with eyelets on the ends... (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ckle&search=Go).
Note: I'm not suggesting Traxxas camber links as a solution but an example of what a turnbuckle with an eyelet looks like. You should be able to buy turnbuckle eyelets separately at any hobby store, at least in the airplane section.
Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 04-24-2014 at 12:47 PM.
04-26-2014, 06:46 AM
#21
I recently got a Sakura D3 CS chassis. It has pretty high countersteer gear ratios stock, but those are easily lowered with new pulleys. They are very adjustable out of the box. You can change toe in/out angles, camber, and castor angles, all fairly easily, and only the toe angles require different parts. Got the chassis as a roller new on Ebay for $111 with shipping in the USA.
04-26-2014, 10:39 AM
#22
My D3 with some good camber all the way 'round...
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