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Old 01-17-2014, 02:42 PM
  #406  
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Originally Posted by JustWill75
my deviations have been as low as 0.5 at 33 laps.
Is that a standard devitation, a difference between fast and average, or some other stat? I'm just curious, as I'm always looking for interesting ways to express consistency.

-Mike
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:56 PM
  #407  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat


What class are you going to run it in? Do you actually think it'll hold a candle to your A-cars?

-Mike
There's nothing that I've built past or lately that holds a candle to the A car when it comes to parts fitment & tolerances. When I left the racing scene I had the tc6 and the Serpent. The 6 was faster but had issues I wasn't willing to put up with. This car is wayy different than the 6 and it looks good. I'm sure it's a very capable platform, so I'm giving it a shot. I love the quality as of late and no one really beats AE when it comes to parts availability and costs.
Kevin H. is somewhat of a local to us and I'm old, so Rick H. gives me something to aspire to
I'll be running 17.5 buddy.
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:05 PM
  #408  
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Is the 96t 64p spur best suited for 17.5 in this car?
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Old 01-17-2014, 04:14 PM
  #409  
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Originally Posted by JayBee
Is the 96t 64p spur best suited for 17.5 in this car?
WHAT JB got the TC6.2 lol that's cool...
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:04 PM
  #410  
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Yeah buddy. I'm excited
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:34 PM
  #411  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
Are the TC6.2 shocks actually different from the TC6.1 shocks? I got the impression they were the same. My big complaint with the TC6.1 shocks was that the bladder was very stiff, so it was hard to get rid of the rebound even with a hole in the cap. I can't remember if they had stiction or not, because honestly I don't think I was good enough with shock building to know better at that point.

-Mike
yes they are the same shocks but they are good shocks and haven't failed me. I do use the Reflex racing soft shock bladders and drill a 1mm hole in the shock cap.
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:41 PM
  #412  
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Originally Posted by grippgoat
Is that a standard devitation, a difference between fast and average, or some other stat? I'm just curious, as I'm always looking for interesting ways to express consistency.

-Mike
The difference between my fastest and slowest lap.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:28 PM
  #413  
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Originally Posted by JayBee
There's nothing that I've built past or lately that holds a candle to the A car when it comes to parts fitment & tolerances. The 6 was faster but had issues I wasn't willing to put up with. This car is wayy different than the 6 and it looks good. I'm sure it's a very capable platform, so I'm giving it a shot. I love the quality as of late and no one really beats AE when it comes to parts availability and costs.
I received my kit about a week ago, and just finished the build. I was in no rush, and only worked on it a couple of hours a night. I read somewhere in this thread, that someone built the kit in four hours... I find that hard to believe, but then again anything is possible..

I per-ordered my kit direct from AE, and had to call a few times to find out why it wasn't shipped sooner then it was, and had it checked out by a supervisor. Once they looked into the problem, it was sent out that day.

The kit came in a brown box, with no markings, or factory seal, other then shipping tape with warning not to accept if tape was broken. I thought this was odd, but no big deal....

I opened the kit, and started the build. Now let me say I've been building RC cars for over 25yrs, and know my way around them....
I'm sure a lot of you had no problems with you kits, and I'm not upset with what I found in mine, BUT, my kit was missing hardware, had wrong hardware, and it just seemed like parts were not placed together in groups as I have seen in other kits....

The reason I am posting this, is I feel sorry for the newbee who would have had no clue what to do, or have the missing, and incorrect hardware in stock, as I did.... I know of a few that gave up on their kits, and either sold them off, or had someone else build the kits.

This is my fifth AE car, and I'm surprised that a company as big as AE doesn't have better quality control, or better instructions.......
I'm sure the car will preform well, and I look forward to comparing it to my "A" car also.....

I do agree the AE parts are everywhere, and easy to come by....

Anyone else have problems with their kits, or am I the only one????


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Old 01-17-2014, 06:46 PM
  #414  
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Originally Posted by chiefj48
I received my kit about a week ago, and just finished the build. I was in no rush, and only worked on it a couple of hours a night. I read somewhere in this thread, that someone built the kit in four hours... I find that hard to believe, but then again anything is possible..

I per-ordered my kit direct from AE, and had to call a few times to find out why it wasn't shipped sooner then it was, and had it checked out by a supervisor. Once they looked into the problem, it was sent out that day.

The kit came in a brown box, with no markings, or factory seal, other then shipping tape with warning not to accept if tape was broken. I thought this was odd, but no big deal....

I opened the kit, and started the build. Now let me say I've been building RC cars for over 25yrs, and know my way around them....
I'm sure a lot of you had no problems with you kits, and I'm not upset with what I found in mine, BUT, my kit was missing hardware, had wrong hardware, and it just seemed like parts were not placed together in groups as I have seen in other kits....

The reason I am posting this, is I feel sorry for the newbee who would have had no clue what to do, or have the missing, and incorrect hardware in stock, as I did.... I know of a few that gave up on their kits, and either sold them off, or had someone else build the kits.

This is my fifth AE car, and I'm surprised that a company as big as AE doesn't have better quality control, or better instructions.......
I'm sure the car will preform well, and I look forward to comparing it to my "A" car also.....

I do agree the AE parts are everywhere, and easy to come by....

Anyone else have problems with their kits, or am I the only one????

I did build the car to a roller in 5 hours but mine came with correct hardware sounds super fishy to me and your problems your the first to post a problem like this I believe
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:54 PM
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That sounds like my Serpent S411 experience. Sorry to hear that. I had similar issues with my tc6 but the main reason I 86th it was because of all the aftermarket gear I was buying just to get it right. I've only just sanded the carbon pcs but so far everything seems a-ok. I'm a bit surprised by the quality control as well but my 2 pans are great so I saw no reason to deny myself this purchase
The car looks amazing though. Hopefully your build becomes less troublesome.
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:03 PM
  #416  
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Is the 96t 64p spur best suited for 17.5 in this car?
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:45 AM
  #417  
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Yes..
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:14 AM
  #418  
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Originally Posted by John Tag
Yes..
Why? Im running a 100? Other than moving your motor slightly rearward whats the difference?
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:19 AM
  #419  
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We all know it depends on track, motor, and what most are running at your track. But 96 isn't a bad starting point. Infact for my team powers motor that's what I used. A 96 spur 64 pitch. In my other torquey motor I've gone down all the way to a 86 spur. Main reason being is that the track had opened up BIG time. So need to go much much lower in fdr. Again I think 96 is good starting point. But if running 100 works for you and your motor at your track.... Awesome. Nothing wrong with that
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:14 AM
  #420  
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Originally Posted by John Tag
Use O Rings to help remove slop from battery mounting. Most all brand cars have the same amount of slop. Thers is slight slop for many reasons,battery casing sizes will vary slightly,Rules may change in near future slightly.Some prefer loose to avoid tweak ect ect.

May I ask what are those 2 post you have mounted on your battery holders. I am looking for a better (faster) way to secure my batteries then using tape or a nylon strap?
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