evochick

iTrader: (5)

Sigh

I had a few hours to kill, the box full of IFS parts was just yelling at me.....

I didn't even have to move the servo.....

evochick

iTrader: (5)

I have been asked on what is needed for to fit an IFS front end to a streetjam, so here is what's needed. I Suppose this will work with SP1 as well.

Other then the Exotek IFS front end and adjustable upper arms you will need

Tamiya Steering uprights #54357 (alloy) or #54154 (carbon)
Tamiya 104 Kingpin #57160

Now you will either need some long Tamiya 5mm Ballstuds, or you can do what I did and use Associated\Yokomo sized smaller ones with matching Yokomo rod ends that match the Streetjam. You will also need lots of shims in different sizes to get the ride height correct.

Lastly you will need some sticky stuff for the dampers, if you use the Exotek ones, I will be doing some testing this Friday with the recommended Tamiya AW grease, plus some 200K oil, I have already tried 100K but was way too thin and wasn't really doing any dampening.

To control droop I just had some lock nuts that do the job but the bigger you have the better.

Beth.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

I'll post pics of my front end too later today to also add what I have done. I am using the FGX 32mm long kingpin.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3501

This reduces the large height differences between the 3 mounting points of the upper arms. It still allows you to get the ideal ride height with Shimizu or even Ride tires. Highly recommend using spacers/shims for ride height on the kingpin rather than trying to twist the shock ball end to adjust ride height. Ignore the included instructions on recommended shock length, just screw in the ball end connector all the way in.

I used Tamiya ball ends and ball end connectors(TRF) and they have less slop and less likely to pop off in a crash than the included crap 3racing ball ends. Since the ball end connectors are longer too, it grabs more of the turnbuckle threads, so its a good thing.

Buy a full shim/spacer kit. Even down to 0.25mm shims to take out as much slop as possible in the steering kingpin (you can even use it on the lower hinge pin for slop too. I found there was 0.5mm of play). You'll need a bunch of spacers to play around with roll center/caster.

Stock dampers, use FGX IFS lube or 2.5 million feels pretty good. I swapped to the machined dampers but I can't feel a difference in smoothness other than allowing me to run lower viscosity lube. I'm using 50K right now, might try 75K in warmer weather.

Associated makes a flanged M3 nut that is great for droop. Sorry, don't have the part number on me but it was posted here a while ago.

Still a lot of testing to do, especially with roll centers and reactive caster when you start playing with the shims for the upper arms. Car is great though, really carves the corners now and is super predictable and easy to drive on asphalt.

fmm

Hi,

I will receive my IFS this week but I don't know which oil would be a good starting point.

If I go for the exotek kit dampers. Is it 2,5million a good starting point? If this is the case, could you please let me know where to buy it?

I also have a pair of extra SJ type 2 shocks with machined Pistons (4 holes) that I am planning to use. Which would be a good oil? 120wt? 50k?

I have an idea that I will try when I build my IFS. Maybe the exotek side spring mount can be used to adjust the droop, instead of a flagged nut.

And last question. I have now 700 oil with the SJ type 2 shocks and machined Pistons (4 holes) in the rear, but it is a bit soft. Which would a good oil for the rear with the 4 hole Pistons?

Thank you very much!!

nutsisneat

What is the best place to buy parts for this car online?
It seems no one of the classic Hongkong Shops carries parts for this car.

And one more question: Is it possible to use rear axles from other manufacturers?

Thanks!

evochick

iTrader: (5)

it really should be a sticky, get parts from here
http://rc-art.net/index_eng.php

Ok first report from trying the IFS, it certainly made the car more stable over the bumps, but I have some more tuning to do, it just didn't feel like it had the corner speed of the stock front end.

First I tried 200K oil and then with the Tamiya AW grease, both felt about the same, but the car felt like it was rolling way too much into the corner and this was with the silver springs... it has potential but still some more work to do. I will ignore the fact I still TQ'd and won the 10 min main....

Going back to the kit font end for the state titles this weekend.

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

try your other set of street jam shocks with the med firm springs. With the kit dampers I found fluid under 1m to be too thin to damper properly. The kit springs also seemed a bit too soft for the higher grip conditions.

evochick

iTrader: (5)

That's the plan, I just wanted to try with the kit dampers first.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Those who are looking for thicker viscosities for the IFS tubes. Yokomo has 300K, 500k, 1000k grease in small amounts, YS300K,YS500K, and YS1000K.

fmm

Today I built my IFS, but the front ride height is very much (almost 9mm). I can play around with the spacers in the kingpin but it is not possible to go lower than 7mm that is still to much.

How do you do to have 4-5mm of front ride height? Are you using the down stop?

I using the street jam shocks with the medium/hard spring.

Thank you!

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

Are you using the v2 shocks, they are a few mm shorter than the v1 shocks. I never tried v1 shocks but with the tamiya aluminum steering blocks I think i ran 1.5mm of spacers above the spindle to get 4.5mm ride height and adjusted the spring collars from there.

fmm

Thank you very much! I was using v2 but with the long rod end to have the same length as the v1 (and to have longer shock travel). Now I have changed the rod end to the short end one and it is very easy to have 4-5 mm ride heigth.

I haven't manage to find 120wt so I will start with 100wt both in the front and in the rear. I think that it should be fine since the where in northern Europe is still rather cold.

Thanks again!!

jdawg81

iTrader: (1)

I noticed that the turning radius when turning right is noticeably tighter than when turning left. I checked servo end point adjustments and that was fine. Then I noticed my rear pod wasn't straight even though both rear links were measured at the same length. In the end I had to lengthen the right rear link by 2-3mm to get the rear pot straight. Once I did this the turning radius when turning left and right was now about the same. After looking at the chassis I still can't figure out why the rear pod isn't straight with both rear links at the same length. Has anyone else experienced this?

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Yes, check the left motor pod plate, opposite of the motor mount plate.

It is not designed that well and the aluminum used is not that strong, so it could bend in a crash. I was wondering too when I had the links equal but my pod was tweaked to one side. I found out the left side pod plate was bent, moving the upper link mounting plate more forward on one side. Even a slight bend will throw off your pod. Check it out and let us know. I replaced the pod plate with a new one and now its perfect. I also carry a spare just in case.

mtveten

iTrader: (29)

If anyone is looking for a deal on a sjf01, mine is available in the for sale thread. You can find it at http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post13944384