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Tamiya TRF418

Old 01-20-2014, 04:59 AM
  #526  
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Originally Posted by skyball
Hey Sean,

thanks for your setup. One question about the shims under the camber links: you have 4mm under them both front and rear. Most other 418 Setups I found have 1mm some have up to 2mm, but never 4mm.

With the 418 bulkheads being around 2.5mm (not exactly sure about this) higher than the 417 ones, I feel that's even more unusual. That must change the rollcenter dramatically.

So can you tell us what the purpose and the effect of that change over the standard setup was?

Thanks,

Christian
So I've found the difference between the shims under the inner ball stud are very crucial on carpet. At 0-1mm on Sweeps I traction roll. 1.5-2.0 the car is very unstable if you hit a dot. At 3-4mm the car becomes very stable and very forgiving. When your in a great setup window a .5mm difference can be huge. So if Sean is running a 4mm shim he may be on high bite carpet.

I don't know Sean's grip level at his track but his setup for our track which is low/medium traction seems a little pushy but very stable. It's a fantastic base setup and highly recommend it as a starting point. As all tracks are different in grip no one setup is perfect but you can take that setup almost any where.

I will finalize my setup this week but it's not all that different. But it does use the stock springs as I didn't want to use anything else at first. I just have a few more things to try till my setup is final. This is a baseline for Sweep 32's for Nats if I can go.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:57 AM
  #527  
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Can anyone tell me whether the 418 can take a 417 gear diff up front? Or something other than a spool?

I've never been a big fan of spools, especially in tight indoor confines where a board meeting is inevitable.
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:26 AM
  #528  
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Originally Posted by minidriver
Can anyone tell me whether the 418 can take a 417 gear diff up front? Or something other than a spool?

I've never been a big fan of spools, especially in tight indoor confines where a board meeting is inevitable.
It fits, I'm running a gear diff on the front with 2.5 million Gravity fluid in it.
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:27 AM
  #529  
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Originally Posted by asuradahk001
is it work???
What brand of spur gear is this? - nice open area to reach the motor screws!
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:58 AM
  #530  
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Looks like a Yokomo spur gear to me or it could be an HPI Panaracer.
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:58 AM
  #531  
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As promised i did some testing and racing with the 6 C-hubs and with some minor adjustments to my setup the car handled great and it was super fast.
I was 0,2 seconds faster then with the 4 c-hubs and i had the fastest time of the day
I just moved the rear dampers 1 hole inwards on the damperstay and that's all.
Due some driving errors (to close on the curbs) i finished second, but overall very pleased with how the car handled on the track.
I look forward on more testing and racing
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:08 PM
  #532  
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Originally Posted by skyball
Hey Sean,

thanks for your setup. One question about the shims under the camber links: you have 4mm under them both front and rear. Most other 418 Setups I found have 1mm some have up to 2mm, but never 4mm.

With the 418 bulkheads being around 2.5mm (not exactly sure about this) higher than the 417 ones, I feel that's even more unusual. That must change the rollcenter dramatically.

So can you tell us what the purpose and the effect of that change over the standard setup was?

Thanks,

Christian
Hi Skyball,

Yes....4mm under the arm is correct, it should put the arms level front and rear which is not out of the ordinary. Raising the inner camber link on this particular car at my particular track did several things. It increased the corner speed, it reduced the tire wear, increased stabliltiy, increased the grip in and out of the corner and it made the car way easier to drive. Also if you look at your current tires you will see more tire wear on the inside of the tire or possibly some cupping, when raising the inner camber link it moved the wear pattern to the middle of the tire wear it should be and the cupping was gone because I was using the tire equally. After 4 runs and continuous tire observations this told me that the contact patch was directly in the middle of the tire throughout most of the lap which ultimatley provided more traction everywhere.

Just because alot of people use 1 -2mm under the ball stud doesn't mean you have too at your track and it doens't mean it's right . On a medium grip carpet track this seem to wake the car up and work the best. Try it!
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:58 PM
  #533  
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Originally Posted by Sean Williams
Hi Skyball,

Yes....4mm under the arm is correct, it should put the arms level front and rear which is not out of the ordinary. Raising the inner camber link on this particular car at my particular track did several things. It increased the corner speed, it reduced the tire wear, increased stabliltiy, increased the grip in and out of the corner and it made the car way easier to drive. Also if you look at your current tires you will see more tire wear on the inside of the tire or possibly some cupping, when raising the inner camber link it moved the wear pattern to the middle of the tire wear it should be and the cupping was gone because I was using the tire equally. After 4 runs and continuous tire observations this told me that the contact patch was directly in the middle of the tire throughout most of the lap which ultimatley provided more traction everywhere.

Just because alot of people use 1 -2mm under the ball stud doesn't mean you have too at your track and it doens't mean it's right . On a medium grip carpet track this seem to wake the car up and work the best. Try it!
Thanks for sharing Sean.... hopefully I can at least be at the same lap as you next round.
Cheers!
Vsr
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:08 PM
  #534  
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Originally Posted by Sean Williams
Hi Skyball,

Yes....4mm under the arm is correct, it should put the arms level front and rear which is not out of the ordinary. Raising the inner camber link on this particular car at my particular track did several things. It increased the corner speed, it reduced the tire wear, increased stabliltiy, increased the grip in and out of the corner and it made the car way easier to drive. Also if you look at your current tires you will see more tire wear on the inside of the tire or possibly some cupping, when raising the inner camber link it moved the wear pattern to the middle of the tire wear it should be and the cupping was gone because I was using the tire equally. After 4 runs and continuous tire observations this told me that the contact patch was directly in the middle of the tire throughout most of the lap which ultimatley provided more traction everywhere.

Just because alot of people use 1 -2mm under the ball stud doesn't mean you have too at your track and it doens't mean it's right . On a medium grip carpet track this seem to wake the car up and work the best. Try it!
In your opinion.. is this only true for carpet?

also. what spacer do you have on the rear on the hub?
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:44 PM
  #535  
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Do you guys ever find it neccesay to polish the ball studs because all my steering links tie rods sway bar mounrs and camber links are super free except for the right rear. The ball stud on the right rear hub is binding inside the ball cup and doesn't move freely. I thought it might be the ball cup out of round so I tried other ones and the same result. The upright moves freely just not the ball stud in the right rear hub. It's odd. Sugguestions? Only thing I can think to do is polish that one ballstud
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:37 PM
  #536  
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Hey Sean,

So thats 4mm with the new style ball studs correct?


I also see the 4mm spacer on the rear of Front arm. Seems to be different then all previous 417s , what did you feel for tht?

THanks
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by xrayaustin
Do you guys ever find it neccesay to polish the ball studs because all my steering links tie rods sway bar mounrs and camber links are super free except for the right rear. The ball stud on the right rear hub is binding inside the ball cup and doesn't move freely. I thought it might be the ball cup out of round so I tried other ones and the same result. The upright moves freely just not the ball stud in the right rear hub. It's odd. Sugguestions? Only thing I can think to do is polish that one ballstud
The Manual recommends tht you sqeeze the ball cup when installed with pliers... old trick in the books...
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:31 AM
  #538  
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Originally Posted by Gordie88
The Manual recommends tht you sqeeze the ball cup when installed with pliers... old trick in the books...
Gave it a good squeeze and freed it right up. It was just weird cuz the other ones weren't like that. Either way thank you
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Old 01-21-2014, 09:50 AM
  #539  
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Anyone got a part number for a complete set of Dampers for the 418 please?
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:01 AM
  #540  
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Tamiya has these, number 42102

RC TRF Special Damper Set - Hard Black Coating


http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...mper-set-42102
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