dorkmissle

iTrader: (29)

Hi, ran my Mi5 for the first time tonight on med grip carpet. Car was pretty good out of the box. Lots of steering. A little skaty on power (could be my 4.5t and heavy trigger finger) Looking to get yok springs and go up on oil a bit. might need less rear toe. Only wish the diff height could be adjusted.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Sam is that you? I'd guess you are running at RSD. I would think taking away toe there wouldn't be the fastest way around. I'd talk to Ron Atomic if you can and see what he was running at Mike's a couple weeks ago. Glad to see you wheelin' again!

AWD

dorkmissle

iTrader: (29)

You bet Andrew! Yes on power out of the corner its loose. CT was running a gear diff up front. I didn't have one to try....anyway new car to learn!

John.C

iTrader: (37)

What is the easiest / best method for removing the o-ring from the wheel hexes?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

John, I have these little "dental picks" that I keep with all my tools, usually used for picking dirt out of my off-road cars, and I just use those. I can just squeeze it under the o-ring and lift, and it comes right off. You just need something small and pointy that doesn't have a sharp edge, and you can lift it right out.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

+1

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

So... What's the trick to getting minimal rebound on the shocks. No matter what I do I keep getting almost full rebound. I push the piston up to about 2 to 3mm gap, set the bladder on slowly while oil pushes out. Then screw on the cap slowly.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

nvm, misread your post.

-Mike

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I start with the piston about 1-2 mm from the top basically as high as I can get it, knowing the piston won't hit the bladder when i start the bladder process.

When I settle the bladder on, I tap it many many many times to make sure there still isn't some pressure on the center of the bladder... I give the bladder a little wiggle.. a little tap tap tap... then I screw on the cap. I usually end up with about 4 mm rebound. Works well for me.

chiefj48

Hey All,

I'm in the process of building my kit, and now I am at the shock building stage. (did I say how well this kit is???)

Can someone explain how, and where do I cut 3mm out of the shock shaft??
Is it on the thread side, or the piston side, of the shaft?
What is the reason for doing this?

If I glue my piston to the shaft, do I still use both of the clips, or just one??
What is the best glue to use for this??

Do I need to shim the seal unit with the .3mm shim???
Where can I purchase these shims, or assortment of shims??

I know, I ask a lot of questions!!!!! lol

When it comes to building my race cars, I like to build it right the first time, and make sure it is done correct!!!!
I always say, "The Race doesn't start till the Car is built"

Thank you for any advice and guidance you can provide....

gdcopbdcop

you cut the shaft on the threaded side. this makes it easier use a smaller length from the bottom of the ball cup to the bottom of the shock body. I used both clips, and any good tire glue works well.

chiefj48

thank you......

do I cut the ball cup shorter, or leave it stock length??

gdcopbdcop

leave the ball cup alone. cutting the shaft is enough....

miguelito75

The best way i found to build my shocks with no rebound is to drill a hole in the plastic shock cap. Just a 0.5 mm will do the job.
This is what i always did with my tamiya shocks and works great!
Tomorow i'm heading to the euro's in lisbon... Lets see what the factory guys are running!

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Please post back if you see something new on their cars.