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Old 08-03-2013, 06:45 AM
  #1156  
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Originally Posted by Shock Tower
Maybe this is an general question, but since the problem is on my new Mi5, I will postbit here.

My problem is to getting the rear swaybar adjusted right. The one side is lifting normaly up, but the other don't make the opposite side move at all ?

I have measured the swaybar links attached to the wishbone, and the are excatly the same lenght. The angel of the swaybar links is also 90 deg as stated in the manual. Without the swaybars links attached to the swaybar, the seaybar are moving freely, and without no sloop.

I have checked the swaybar on my setup board if it is straight, and it seems like it.

So I don't have any more ideas, anyone who have a good advice ?
Shock tower: in the sway bar links pack they give you 3 grub screws, 2 of them have points on the end and 1 is flat on the end. Make sure you use the flat grub screw for the centering collar in the middle. And the grub screws with the points go in the plastic holders.
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:55 AM
  #1157  
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Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop
leave the ball cup alone. cutting the shaft is enough....
Thank you.....

what about the .3mm shim for the seal unit????
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Old 08-03-2013, 07:25 AM
  #1158  
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Originally Posted by miguelito75
The best way i found to build my shocks with no rebound is to drill a hole in the plastic shock cap. Just a 0.5 mm will do the job.
This is what I do as well.
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:57 PM
  #1159  
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When do you use rebound and when do not use it,somthing i have not really understood,basiclly whats it used for always run none,but like to know anyway.

At euros chris said about a brace there testing and lower shock towers and think they said shocks too,
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:30 PM
  #1160  
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Originally Posted by Quietman
When do you use rebound and when do not use it,somthing i have not really understood,basiclly whats it used for always run none,but like to know anyway.

At euros chris said about a brace there testing and lower shock towers and think they said shocks too,
Typically you run more rebound if your on a low grip track. If traction is high then minimal rebound. Or if your track is bumpy then run more rebound
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:40 PM
  #1161  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Shock tower: in the sway bar links pack they give you 3 grub screws, 2 of them have points on the end and 1 is flat on the end. Make sure you use the flat grub screw for the centering collar in the middle. And the grub screws with the points go in the plastic holders.

Thanks for the hint. I checked that also, and no problem there. I talked to another RC friend, and he told me to try adjusting the lenght of the sway bar links.

I shorten one of the links, and now both side works as they should. So there must be some tweak in the swaybar, that I coulden't see even when I laid it flat on my setup board.
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:40 PM
  #1162  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Typically you run more rebound if your on a low grip track. If traction is high then minimal rebound. Or if your track is bumpy then run more rebound
Thanks
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:23 PM
  #1163  
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Does anyone soak their belts is wd-40 to soften them up?? If so how long??
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Old 08-04-2013, 05:13 AM
  #1164  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Does anyone soak their belts is wd-40 to soften them up?? If so how long??
Another option if you're running in a spec class is to pick up a set of the grey belts (U3012/U3013) which are already softer...
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Old 08-04-2013, 05:25 AM
  #1165  
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At the euro's today. So far i have spoken to Chris and Martin. Both very nice and helpfull. The cars are pretty standard! They are running a new Brace that attachés the front of the rear arms. And a couple of small things.
Attached Thumbnails Schumacher Mi5-image.jpg  
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:49 AM
  #1166  
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Originally Posted by scott_g
Another option if you're running in a spec class is to pick up a set of the grey belts (U3012/U3013) which are already softer...
Scott g is on the money, I use these belts on my mi5 running 17.5 boosted and the car is very "free" and feels a lot smoother. As with all belts keep an eye on the tension.


miguelito, what is that brace?
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:14 PM
  #1167  
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This question is for the guys that run the orca batteries in the mi5. What are you guys doing with the inner battery post. With the battery in the car it is almost under the top deck. It cannot be pulled out without taking the battery out. I like to charge my batteries with them in the car. Anyone have any idea's on how the acomplish this??
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:58 PM
  #1168  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
This question is for the guys that run the orca batteries in the mi5. What are you guys doing with the inner battery post. With the battery in the car it is almost under the top deck. It cannot be pulled out without taking the battery out. I like to charge my batteries with them in the car. Anyone have any idea's on how the acomplish this??
I have the same problem. I will have to remove it and charge it in a lipo sack.
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Old 08-04-2013, 05:08 PM
  #1169  
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Originally Posted by miguelito75
At the euro's today. So far i have spoken to Chris and Martin. Both very nice and helpfull. The cars are pretty standard! They are running a new Brace that attachés the front of the rear arms. And a couple of small things.
Who makes and sells that purple battery tape?
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Old 08-04-2013, 05:11 PM
  #1170  
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After this weekend of racing (total runs on the car is between 18-22 and a couple of major crashes and bumps/bruises along the way), I've found about .75-1mm of vertical play in my front arms. The CF is perfectly fine but has anyone found an effective way of removing the glue-in inserts in the arms?
I wonder if there was a way to have the inserts attached w/o ca'n them...

Last edited by JayBee; 08-04-2013 at 05:23 PM.
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