LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

this pic looks familiar, i think i follow you on instagram

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

I am on Instagram n4red90 and your Instagram is?

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

I have mine built to the 190 front end config. It is exactly 190 with no camber with wheels and tires on. The rear without the additional 2mm of spacers on each side, not like the kit build instructions, is at 186 with wheels and tires on. The question to the UF1 rules is: is the car legal after negative camber is adjusted? Measured at the widest part of the wheel and tire assembled with camber adjusted, I sit at 196. -2* camber adds about 3mm per side. Right now it personally doesn't matter to me as I club race and run it as built. My plan is to leave the rear end alone. Adding those washers makes the rear end wobble in the worst way. For the front, I will get the aluminum camber/caster block when it comes out and trim the upper A arm as Solara stated is required. I'm predicting the front end with camber is going to make the 190 mm mark at the widest portion of the rim. I might get impatient and drill the 2 holes too.

InspGadgt

Mine set at the 190mm configuration with Tamiya wheels, Pit Shimizu tires, and 0* camber is at 192mm. The reason this is is because the Pit Shimizu tire is wider than the Tamiya rim and overhangs it on the outside. When I measure it with just the rims and no tires at 0* camber the car is right at 190mm.

That's why I didn't use spacers in the wheel as on the non-diff side it looked like it could cause wobble. With the Qteq left side hub and axle spacers I get 0 wobble. The Qteq hub is longer though so I think if you use axle spacers with the stock hub it probably won't hold as well and may end up with wobble in the hub.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

I wonder if the f104 main axle assembly would fit.

liljohn1064

iTrader: (17)

The axle slides right in, but the pod offset is a little different. You'd just need to figure out the spacing on the non diff side to center the chassis back up to the rear wheels. Not sure how wide that would leave you overall either.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

I have spacers for each size which I measure the inside diameter to be 5.5mm but decided against using it and kept the overall length at 185mm for now because the runout was even worst. I checked the drive axle last night, seems to me the axle itself has a slight runout, but it's definately coming from the spur gear hub/roll pin side. That mount option doesn't seem to be the best solution for a rear end.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

Thanks. I'm thinking of picking up a whole F104 assembly and machine down a rear axle to make it work. I just didn't want to go through the hassle of finding a bearing to fit the rear pod. Now that I know it's the same size should make it easier.

b20btec

iTrader: (11)

Here's a snap shot of the modified front end using Solara's guide, with 1mm of neg camber.

LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

yep, that's you. i'm low_et

Solara

iTrader: (17)

I think at the end, it is all about which tires are we using...

If running PIT/TCS....doing the 184mm mod is a must if we are going to race with the 190mm rule (thru the tech box). I think if the race organizer is really picky, they will buy a IFMAR box just to make sure the car will slide thru the 190mm box, with camber on it....

But when running Pardus or stock Tamiya Tires, the 190mm setup should be right on the 190mm when NOT using any spacer on the front axle.

I don't know about RIDE tires..........and Sweep tires, alot of ppl are saying their INSERT are not up to par and causing the tires not as good as the PIT/TCS (571/572 combo).

About rear axle spacing...instead of using the TC spacer on the hub, I did the spacer on the AXLE instead. I think I have 2mm black plastic spacer (I have no idea where I find it) on each side and I did not put any spacer within the wheel hub, that caused me no wobbling on the wheel adaptor.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Are there any plans to make carbon reinforced plastic parts for this car? I've found a lot of the components to be excessively soft. Specifically the side link and the central pivot. It captures the nuts that hold the pivot in place, but not very well. When tightening the pivot to the chassis, the nuts just spin inside the plastic.

My current fix for the side links is to use AE 12R5 or Tamiya carbon L parts from the F104. Since the kit side links are so soft, they don't really do a good job of keeping the rear pod in line. This prevents the car from taking a solid "set" in the corner. Especially if the traction is high.

I've also found paying close attention to the lower front pivot balls is helpful as well. These can oblong out really fast and the fit between the kingpin and the plastic changes as impacts occur, or as temperature fluctuates. If you dampen the front suspension with grease or silicone damper lube like myself, the fit between the kingpin and that pivot ball is critical.

Another tip about the center shock. I would liberally coat the oring in shock slime, as it swells extremely fast. It might be a good idea to check a different type of oring, like the blue TRF orings.

Otherwise, the car has been great. I like the rear pod design as it has very easy access to the motor. The car drives awesome, setup changes are noticeable, but the car isn't overly sensitive to setup errors. Like many others are saying, tires are everything. I'm currently running the typical Pit Shimizu setup and it seems solid. In comparison to a lot of the other F1s I was competing against, the car is much smoother, but still easy to rotate around corners. I'm just looking for a little more forward traction and it will be dialed

-Korey

InspGadgt

The big problem with the football is the lock nut, the soft plastic doesn't help, even with the AE one I had issues with the nut just spinning in the plastic until I figured out the nylon used on the 3mm lock nuts has a hole that is too small for the screw to go through properly. I started running a 3mm tap through the nuts before assembly and that solves the problem even with the stock SP football.

Side links are definitely too flexy.

The lower front pivot balls...really need some aluminum ones for this.

For the o-rings I found out in my paintball days a lot of different greases/oils cause o-rings to swell, some faster than others. A lot of cleaners do as well...if you clean out your shocks with motor cleaner that will swell the o-rings as well. So I've started using Dow33 for the o-rings. My paintball marker specifically used that because it doesn't swell o-rings. Other paintball markers use Dow55 or other greases/oils that cause swelling to get a better seal because their tolerances were wider. Plus I still have a lot of Dow33 left over from paintball so I might as well use it up in RC

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I did the same with my locknuts. I actually put a tiny bit of grease on the bolt as well. I actually thought about using a standard nut and just putting a little thread locking compound on it.

I have noticed a difference even within certain shock oil brands that swell certain orings more. I currently use Much More shock oils at the moment, because they seem to swell most orings slower.

stonely0

Guys please help as im about to pull the trigger on this today but the kit does not come with Wheels, tire, front/rear wing and body... May i know how does this kit compare to the 3Racing F113? also...

- Can 3 Racing F113 body, wheels, front and rear wing fit?

- Can TECH Racing (#FB0090) Type FA Body fit? http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tech-rac...-90040193.html

- What are the wheel you guys use for this kit and where to get it?


Please get back to me soon.... Thanks a zillion!!!

Regards