Speed Passion F1 car - The SP1
#318
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I have mine built to the 190 front end config. It is exactly 190 with no camber with wheels and tires on. The rear without the additional 2mm of spacers on each side, not like the kit build instructions, is at 186 with wheels and tires on. The question to the UF1 rules is: is the car legal after negative camber is adjusted? Measured at the widest part of the wheel and tire assembled with camber adjusted, I sit at 196. -2* camber adds about 3mm per side. Right now it personally doesn't matter to me as I club race and run it as built. My plan is to leave the rear end alone. Adding those washers makes the rear end wobble in the worst way. For the front, I will get the aluminum camber/caster block when it comes out and trim the upper A arm as Solara stated is required. I'm predicting the front end with camber is going to make the 190 mm mark at the widest portion of the rim. I might get impatient and drill the 2 holes too.
#319
Tech Champion
How many spacer you put on the hub and did you enlarge the inside diameter of the 1st inner shim bigger? If you have too much shim within the hub, it might wobble because the wheel might not be deep enough to the HEX wheel hub.
That I will have to check it myself...after the 3 weeks Asia trip.
That I will have to check it myself...after the 3 weeks Asia trip.
That's why I didn't use spacers in the wheel as on the non-diff side it looked like it could cause wobble. With the Qteq left side hub and axle spacers I get 0 wobble. The Qteq hub is longer though so I think if you use axle spacers with the stock hub it probably won't hold as well and may end up with wobble in the hub.
#322
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
How many spacer you put on the hub and did you enlarge the inside diameter of the 1st inner shim bigger? If you have too much shim within the hub, it might wobble because the wheel might not be deep enough to the HEX wheel hub.
That I will have to check it myself...after the 3 weeks Asia trip.
That I will have to check it myself...after the 3 weeks Asia trip.
#326
I think at the end, it is all about which tires are we using...
If running PIT/TCS....doing the 184mm mod is a must if we are going to race with the 190mm rule (thru the tech box). I think if the race organizer is really picky, they will buy a IFMAR box just to make sure the car will slide thru the 190mm box, with camber on it....
But when running Pardus or stock Tamiya Tires, the 190mm setup should be right on the 190mm when NOT using any spacer on the front axle.
I don't know about RIDE tires..........and Sweep tires, alot of ppl are saying their INSERT are not up to par and causing the tires not as good as the PIT/TCS (571/572 combo).
About rear axle spacing...instead of using the TC spacer on the hub, I did the spacer on the AXLE instead. I think I have 2mm black plastic spacer (I have no idea where I find it) on each side and I did not put any spacer within the wheel hub, that caused me no wobbling on the wheel adaptor.
If running PIT/TCS....doing the 184mm mod is a must if we are going to race with the 190mm rule (thru the tech box). I think if the race organizer is really picky, they will buy a IFMAR box just to make sure the car will slide thru the 190mm box, with camber on it....
But when running Pardus or stock Tamiya Tires, the 190mm setup should be right on the 190mm when NOT using any spacer on the front axle.
I don't know about RIDE tires..........and Sweep tires, alot of ppl are saying their INSERT are not up to par and causing the tires not as good as the PIT/TCS (571/572 combo).
About rear axle spacing...instead of using the TC spacer on the hub, I did the spacer on the AXLE instead. I think I have 2mm black plastic spacer (I have no idea where I find it) on each side and I did not put any spacer within the wheel hub, that caused me no wobbling on the wheel adaptor.
#327
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Are there any plans to make carbon reinforced plastic parts for this car? I've found a lot of the components to be excessively soft. Specifically the side link and the central pivot. It captures the nuts that hold the pivot in place, but not very well. When tightening the pivot to the chassis, the nuts just spin inside the plastic.
My current fix for the side links is to use AE 12R5 or Tamiya carbon L parts from the F104. Since the kit side links are so soft, they don't really do a good job of keeping the rear pod in line. This prevents the car from taking a solid "set" in the corner. Especially if the traction is high.
I've also found paying close attention to the lower front pivot balls is helpful as well. These can oblong out really fast and the fit between the kingpin and the plastic changes as impacts occur, or as temperature fluctuates. If you dampen the front suspension with grease or silicone damper lube like myself, the fit between the kingpin and that pivot ball is critical.
Another tip about the center shock. I would liberally coat the oring in shock slime, as it swells extremely fast. It might be a good idea to check a different type of oring, like the blue TRF orings.
Otherwise, the car has been great. I like the rear pod design as it has very easy access to the motor. The car drives awesome, setup changes are noticeable, but the car isn't overly sensitive to setup errors. Like many others are saying, tires are everything. I'm currently running the typical Pit Shimizu setup and it seems solid. In comparison to a lot of the other F1s I was competing against, the car is much smoother, but still easy to rotate around corners. I'm just looking for a little more forward traction and it will be dialed
-Korey
My current fix for the side links is to use AE 12R5 or Tamiya carbon L parts from the F104. Since the kit side links are so soft, they don't really do a good job of keeping the rear pod in line. This prevents the car from taking a solid "set" in the corner. Especially if the traction is high.
I've also found paying close attention to the lower front pivot balls is helpful as well. These can oblong out really fast and the fit between the kingpin and the plastic changes as impacts occur, or as temperature fluctuates. If you dampen the front suspension with grease or silicone damper lube like myself, the fit between the kingpin and that pivot ball is critical.
Another tip about the center shock. I would liberally coat the oring in shock slime, as it swells extremely fast. It might be a good idea to check a different type of oring, like the blue TRF orings.
Otherwise, the car has been great. I like the rear pod design as it has very easy access to the motor. The car drives awesome, setup changes are noticeable, but the car isn't overly sensitive to setup errors. Like many others are saying, tires are everything. I'm currently running the typical Pit Shimizu setup and it seems solid. In comparison to a lot of the other F1s I was competing against, the car is much smoother, but still easy to rotate around corners. I'm just looking for a little more forward traction and it will be dialed
-Korey
#328
Tech Champion
The big problem with the football is the lock nut, the soft plastic doesn't help, even with the AE one I had issues with the nut just spinning in the plastic until I figured out the nylon used on the 3mm lock nuts has a hole that is too small for the screw to go through properly. I started running a 3mm tap through the nuts before assembly and that solves the problem even with the stock SP football.
Side links are definitely too flexy.
The lower front pivot balls...really need some aluminum ones for this.
For the o-rings I found out in my paintball days a lot of different greases/oils cause o-rings to swell, some faster than others. A lot of cleaners do as well...if you clean out your shocks with motor cleaner that will swell the o-rings as well. So I've started using Dow33 for the o-rings. My paintball marker specifically used that because it doesn't swell o-rings. Other paintball markers use Dow55 or other greases/oils that cause swelling to get a better seal because their tolerances were wider. Plus I still have a lot of Dow33 left over from paintball so I might as well use it up in RC
Side links are definitely too flexy.
The lower front pivot balls...really need some aluminum ones for this.
For the o-rings I found out in my paintball days a lot of different greases/oils cause o-rings to swell, some faster than others. A lot of cleaners do as well...if you clean out your shocks with motor cleaner that will swell the o-rings as well. So I've started using Dow33 for the o-rings. My paintball marker specifically used that because it doesn't swell o-rings. Other paintball markers use Dow55 or other greases/oils that cause swelling to get a better seal because their tolerances were wider. Plus I still have a lot of Dow33 left over from paintball so I might as well use it up in RC
#329
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
The big problem with the football is the lock nut, the soft plastic doesn't help, even with the AE one I had issues with the nut just spinning in the plastic until I figured out the nylon used on the 3mm lock nuts has a hole that is too small for the screw to go through properly. I started running a 3mm tap through the nuts before assembly and that solves the problem even with the stock SP football.
Side links are definitely too flexy.
The lower front pivot balls...really need some aluminum ones for this.
For the o-rings I found out in my paintball days a lot of different greases/oils cause o-rings to swell, some faster than others. A lot of cleaners do as well...if you clean out your shocks with motor cleaner that will swell the o-rings as well. So I've started using Dow33 for the o-rings. My paintball marker specifically used that because it doesn't swell o-rings. Other paintball markers use Dow55 or other greases/oils that cause swelling to get a better seal because their tolerances were wider. Plus I still have a lot of Dow33 left over from paintball so I might as well use it up in RC
Side links are definitely too flexy.
The lower front pivot balls...really need some aluminum ones for this.
For the o-rings I found out in my paintball days a lot of different greases/oils cause o-rings to swell, some faster than others. A lot of cleaners do as well...if you clean out your shocks with motor cleaner that will swell the o-rings as well. So I've started using Dow33 for the o-rings. My paintball marker specifically used that because it doesn't swell o-rings. Other paintball markers use Dow55 or other greases/oils that cause swelling to get a better seal because their tolerances were wider. Plus I still have a lot of Dow33 left over from paintball so I might as well use it up in RC
I have noticed a difference even within certain shock oil brands that swell certain orings more. I currently use Much More shock oils at the moment, because they seem to swell most orings slower.
#330
Tech Adept
Urgent Help!!!
Guys please help as im about to pull the trigger on this today but the kit does not come with Wheels, tire, front/rear wing and body... May i know how does this kit compare to the 3Racing F113? also...
- Can 3 Racing F113 body, wheels, front and rear wing fit?
- Can TECH Racing (#FB0090) Type FA Body fit? http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tech-rac...-90040193.html
- What are the wheel you guys use for this kit and where to get it?
Please get back to me soon.... Thanks a zillion!!!
Regards
- Can 3 Racing F113 body, wheels, front and rear wing fit?
- Can TECH Racing (#FB0090) Type FA Body fit? http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tech-rac...-90040193.html
- What are the wheel you guys use for this kit and where to get it?
Please get back to me soon.... Thanks a zillion!!!
Regards