As the R uses regular TT02 top and bottom arms I believe you can shorten to 251 like a regular TT02. The alloy hubs shouldn't stop you doing that. Caveat: I don't have an R but too many normal ones and far too many Type S versions lol.

I suspect my lack of shims lead to my newfound lack of teeth. Oddly enough, my family ~litterally~ makes gears for a living, so I have some grasp on this. :-) I orders some .1mm shims so I can do the stack properly.

I've also got the fancy hard chassis.

I too have the Hard Deck in blue on my recently rebuilt Type S. I ran it last weekend on gray carpet with an old 17x2 brushed motor and it felt very direct. I like it a lot.

If I bought a TT02R, what are other must have upgrades for TCS?

Hello All,
After 7 years I am getting back into an "on-road" car after my F201 and TA-03 were stolen in a home robbery. I found a sealed TT02 Porsche RSR on RCgroups for $100 delivered so I thought what the heck. I am a big rally fan (I own a full scale '84 Audi Turbo quattro coupe) and plan on building this into a rally car.

With that said I have read quite a bit on the TT02 last night but have some questions on some parts I am looking at.

Shocks- Are the 54753 Super Mini CVA the correct shock to go with? As for oil should I go 40wt or drop down to 30wt for rally?

Shims- One thing I have learned about Tamiya kits over the years is that shimming the suspension helps a lot. I am assuming that I need 3MM ID shims for that? I have also read that it is a good idea to shim the diff's and wondering what size shims I need for that.

Steering- One thing that annoys me is sloppy steering. While I am trying to keep this a pretty budget build and not looking to go full Aluminum I am wondering if the 54550 stepped screws are worthwhile? They are cheap and I have read some positive reviews. On the TA03 it was common practice to use small o-rings in the ball links to take out some slop, it this necessary on the TT02?

Differentials- So I am use to ball diffs but reading about using different weight grease and oil in the diffs to get the proper limiting effects. I laymans terms what should I put in the front and rear?

Bearings- Already ordered.

I also have an old Novak Havoc 17.5 turn motor/ESC which was going to go in the TA03 back in the day. The motor looks like it is 2200KV so I am guessing the stock gearing would be fine?

Anything I am missing?

Thanks.

Cheers,
Jim

The usuals.. cvd, better dampers. Steering arms..

My M05, and TT02b both have.. pretty sloppy steering. Well "had" sloppy steering. The M05 I swapped out for metal steering gear. I have it ordered for the TT02 as well.

To reduce slop on any ball cup, I use a slice of silicone tube that's ~very lightly lubed~ with light oil. The slice allows adjustment of the preload on the ball cup.

IIRC, the shims for the differential are 8mm shims. (at least that's what I ordered for my car...)

Perfect,
Thanks for intel.

I did a bunch of reading on diffs last night and I may be more confused now then I was. The car will be used on unprepared tarmac and dirt. It sounds like the less grip there is the "locking" you need? Anyone care to take a educated guess what I should run. I will not be racing at all but just looking for some guidance here.

Thanks.

Cheers,
Jim

We've started a spec class at our indoor racing club - TT02, Torque Tuned motors. Basically kit plus bearings. No other mods.

Some great racing is happening, but last night in one race 3 of us all lot a front doggone in one race. I understand the flex and slop in these things, but is there any cheap way of minimising this? O rings in the cups or anything? Or just accept its going to happen from time to time?

you want to keep the rear diff relatively free. Tamiya AW grease works well for adding a little resistance. A common practice is to either run aw grease in the from as well , or if you like more "front pull" you can run a putty filled diff.

I just completed an R for USGT have not tested it out yet but that time will come
http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...psxd9aauv3.jpg

Not a very inexpensive way to solve it, but how it is solved in the Tamiya Euro Cup is with parts 53792 and 54477.

Yeah, thats the obvious way. No CVDs, or other major mods allowed though.

I think the class is a great idea. I would try "o" rings in the out drives. I wonder if you put a spacer inside the shock body to limit rebound if that would help? I have never tried it.

Aah ok...
My friends and I are driving the same rules as your class states, but later allowed this "tuning" as it doesn't change your speed and gives the freedom of contact racing. I for myself never had a problem with bones falling out. I guess it is a little different with each car...