I believe that is the idea behind the locked diff, though I have never tried drifting my cars. At least not on purpose lol.

Unless you are planning on building an actual drift car I would not lock the rear.....it will make the car very unruly as well as lead to more wear in the outdrives.

I have my rear fairly open (Just using AW grease) and with a 17.5T motor it is very easy to induce throttle on oversteer.

Cheers,
Jim

Sorry, got my terminology backwards. Experiencing more understeer where the car is pushing thru a turn. I have to release throttle, tap brakes, and power on the turn sharper.

So...Monday during "Prime Day" I got a deal on a IR Thermometer and it just showed up. I took 10 minutes and ran the car with the 5.02:1 FDR. My finger is pretty darn accurate when I was guessing 130-140*F....After 10 minutes I was at 131*. After work I will swap out the pinion to get me to 4.33:1 and see where I am temp wise.....it looks like I am safe to eeekkk a couple more MPH out of her.

Cheers,
Jim

One of the cheapest and best tools in the box is the IR thermometer.

What gearing on the 17.5T are you at now and looking to go to?

At lower speeds I could see getting a bunch of push (understeer) but once traction is broken on the rears I think it will become a handful.

Cheers,
Jim

I'll have to take some quick video to show and get some pointers on.

I have actually lived for 25 years flying high performance e-powered planes and gliders without a IR thermometer without blowing anything up because of heat but with that said on a plane you are not always WOT when flying, especially, pylon planes.....I need to give the old brain a break after a couple 130+ MPH circuits :eek:.

Right now I have a 81T spur and 44T pinion for a FDR of 5.02 actually. I will put in a 51T pinion which will bring me down to 4.33. I also have a 77T spur which should fit with the 51T pinion which gets me to 3.92 but I am thinking that may be pushing it.

Cheers,
Jim

I switched over to the 51T pinon last night and while I was collecting my stuff a nasty squall moved through so so running last night. I should be able to get a few packs through her tonight and it will be a good test because today is supposed to be the hottest day of the summer here.

Cheers,
Jim

If you're always on full throttle, probably time to move up to faster motor. Just like 1:1 cars, modulating the throttle works better; and going WOT, only when you need to accelerate. There is a whole new world between 0 and 100. It's difficult to feel it out at first, but it will allow you to drive like you're sitting inside the vehicle. :tire:

I actually think the none boosted 17.5T motor is a pretty good compromise between speed and acceleration and duration....though being a motor head (I have been driving tuned Audi's for 25 years now) I do like horse power. I would not mind a bit more top speed but I also want to keep it drive-able because I like turns and I do not want to start destroying drivetrain parts not to mention breaking parts when I misjudge a turn and hit something at higher speeds. Do I use full throttle a lot.....sure but I also use the brakes and throttle modulation to get around the "course"

With that said I was just comparing flying one of my high performance planes to driving a RC car. When I am driving the car I am asking for max performance a higher percentage of the time then when flying one of my fast planes, especially as I get older. Flying a plane with a 28" wingspan at over 130MPH takes a lot of concentration so I tend to do a couple hot laps and then back off and do a number of laps at 80MPH to let the heart rate come down. There is also the monetary consequences of crashing a plane compared to crashing a car :cry:

Cheers,
Jim

Raced last night and DNF in first heat and was done for the night!

Right rear axle stud caught the rail on a straight and ripped the entire suspension off the car lol. The Marshal was picking up bits and pieces and laughing.

The original tub is very soft and I had already noticed that the screws that secure the rear suspensions plate were backing out. So I put a drop of ca in last race and tightened them. Well this time they held.. really well lol.. so instead they broke off from chassis.

Now here is the frustrating part.. the reinfored blue and white tub are out of stock everywhere in the states.

Found a blue one in UK that will cost a lot to ship. White I have found in HK.

Either way, looks like my car will be out of commission for couple of weeks!

The reinforced tubs, i've never seen in stock in the states. Also, it may not be better for this. When I crashed my TT02b, it ~tore~ the blue tub I bought. It's harder, but I don't think it will help in a situation like that.

With that said if you need a new tub why not get the stiffer one?

If you buy it off e-bay RCMart will ship it free. Here on the East Coast I get stuff from RCM in 8 or 9 days. Still a bummer though.

Cheers,
Jim

I think I would still benefit from the stiffer chassis on carpet.

I contacted TamiyaUSA and they said they're are on order but 6 weeks out. Ouch.

May have to just opt for the pimpin White tub lol.