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-   -   Tamiya TT02 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/700357-tamiya-tt02-thread.html)

kytr8matic 12-20-2016 06:25 AM

Wow.. thanks for the advice..
Actually i live in indonesia (equator country) hot as hell 😂😂

Today i change the wing because the stock one from brz body is too flat.. no downforce at all..

The suspension setup that you guys said is right.. same as the theory from internet

But in here all rc touring player *even the pro use the setup like that but need big amount of downforce at the back of the car

My car has the same setup as my friend.. except the bodyshell

His is raikiri gt and mine brz R&D version, his car is stable no spining then we change the bodyshell and his car has same issue as me lol

kytr8matic 12-20-2016 06:28 AM


Originally Posted by eR1c (Post 14772657)
in my opinion your rear diff is way too tight, your not letting the rear wheels spin independently and thus the rear is spinning out. My suggestion is to keep the front diff tight and loosen the rear.

I suggest starting w/ something like 7k-10k in the rear then go lower as needed.

I still using the stock one tho if i use oil it will leak out

The front is packed with super heavy duty grease

But the back just a tip, the diff still loose

Raman 12-20-2016 09:35 AM


Originally Posted by kytr8matic (Post 14773923)
Wow.. thanks for the advice..
Actually i live in indonesia (equator country) hot as hell 😂😂

Today i change the wing because the stock one from brz body is too flat.. no downforce at all..

The suspension setup that you guys said is right.. same as the theory from internet

But in here all rc touring player *even the pro use the setup like that but need big amount of downforce at the back of the car

My car has the same setup as my friend.. except the bodyshell

His is raikiri gt and mine brz R&D version, his car is stable no spining then we change the bodyshell and his car has same issue as me lol

BRZ body is the top body used at Tamiya track in California... So it's a good choice. Most use the stock wing.

I can't speak to what the pros in Indonesia run, but most factory drivers that post their set up use the Internet theory.

Try out the "internet" set up and see if it solves your problem. It doesn't hurt.

It will make your life easier when you figure out the baseline set up and then tune the final parts with wing, body.

Mini35 12-20-2016 01:18 PM


Originally Posted by Raman (Post 14771761)
Just a tip to save money, avoid running the 418/419 c hubs, they are very fragile. The stock c hubs that come with the s type work fine with double cardan joints. The 418 c hubs just allow you to remove them with ease, since the cut out is larger.

Since switching to the TA05 plastic version (non hard) I have broken 1 c hub in a race, where as the 418/419 would occur every other race.

Also I have been running my TT02s with the 44mm DCJ. They fit fine, so you don't have to buy the 42mm shafts

Thanks for the comments on the 44mm bones. I confess I never bothered to try the 44mm ones, I built them from new with 42mm ones and they also fit fine lol. And yes the 418 C-hubs are indeed fragile. I alternate between them and the flexi TA05v2 / FF03 ones depending on what I put my hands on first in my spares box. The TA05v2 ones 54031 or FF03 51293 do seem to last better, although I find not crashing really helps too.

Raman 12-20-2016 01:36 PM

Not hitting things always helps

smash8ight 12-24-2016 03:21 PM

Usgt build
 
What pinion and spur should I start with a 21.5 brushless setup?

microed 12-27-2016 03:16 PM


Originally Posted by smash8ight (Post 14778522)
What pinion and spur should I start with a 21.5 brushless setup?

If you have the high speed gear set and use the original motor mount, you can go with 82 x 49. That will get you in the ballpark of where you need to be.

Mini35 12-27-2016 03:24 PM


Originally Posted by microed (Post 14780931)
If you have the high speed gear set and use the original motor mount, you can go with 82 x 49. That will get you in the ballpark of where you need to be.

In case it's not obvious, that's 64dp not the Tamiya 0.6 mod metric pitch gears. 82/49 gets you a 4.35:1 ratio.

gigaplex 12-27-2016 03:35 PM


Originally Posted by Mini35 (Post 14780941)
In case it's not obvious, that's 64dp not the Tamiya 0.6 mod metric pitch gears. 82/49 gets you a 4.35:1 ratio.

Isn't that more of a 13.5 FDR, rather than for a 21.5?

smash8ight 12-27-2016 07:58 PM

82/49 64pitch....got it.

microed 12-28-2016 11:55 AM


Originally Posted by Mini35 (Post 14780941)
In case it's not obvious, that's 64dp not the Tamiya 0.6 mod metric pitch gears. 82/49 gets you a 4.35:1 ratio.

Thanks for adding that. I should have said that in my earlier post.


Originally Posted by gigaplex (Post 14780953)
Isn't that more of a 13.5 FDR, rather than for a 21.5?

Lots of variables to deal with such as size of track, brand of motor, timing, etc. However, 4.35 FDR will get you close to where you need to be.

Raman 12-28-2016 12:05 PM

I'm running a 78/58 64p for 21.5 Novak Vulcan, zero timing.... Which is 3.5 fdr. To get there, I'm using the yeah racing mount and the gear cover over the pinion had to be trimmed... So not exactly TCS legal.

microed 12-28-2016 01:40 PM


Originally Posted by Raman (Post 14781762)
I'm running a 78/58 64p for 21.5 Novak Vulcan, zero timing.... Which is 3.5 fdr. To get there, I'm using the yeah racing mount and the gear cover over the pinion had to be trimmed... So not exactly TCS legal.

I generally set mine up in a similar way when I run it in the VTA class, but have an extra gear cover and stock motor mount to use for when I do TCS races.

Raman 01-09-2017 12:19 PM

Tamiya is releasing two new hard chassis for the TT02.. one in white and one in blue. Should have done black as well..

47339  TT-02 Lower Deck (Hard/Blue)
47340  TT-02 Lower Deck (Hard/White)

Qatmix 01-09-2017 02:54 PM

Yep, it's cool they are doing those stiffer chassis. But blue or white??


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