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Originally Posted by eR1c
(Post 14761211)
I love that BMW body!
Looking for some expertise, I am having trouble w/ my Yeah Racing front drive axles/CV joints. The retainer rings keep popping off on both sides...I noticed that the rings are very close to the inner housing of the stock plastic front knuckles. |
I have the Tamiya CVD's, but the retainer ring appears to be the same as with the Yeah racing brand. If they keep popping off, it may be because you have them in backwards. I accidentally put one of my rings on backwards and it popped off almost immediately, I flipped the direction and it has not popped off in almost a year. thanks though! |
okay, i can see that one was backwards ...just reversed so now both should be installed correctly. ...I also dremelled out the inside of each hub a tad so that there is now about 1.5mm of space around the rings. Seems to be working just driving around in my garage.
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I play my tt02s with teampower black can motor. It is an excellent entertaining car.
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Nice! Is that white tub the same as the black tub chassis? -it looks like its a little lower on the edges (but may be that I am not used to seeing it in white).
I notice you have the front bumper on your rear too. -I finally dremelled my rear bumper ...I hated all the extra stuff hanging off the rear. |
I just noticed that both my gear boxes are cracked near the mounting points. ...I have only driven my car on a prepped track and have never crashed. So thinking that maybe I tightened the screws down a bit too much and the chassis flex helped the covers crack? I have a new set on order and plan to not tighten so much.
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Hello guys.. i have a problem with the rear spinning on my tt02
My setup: -Front shock/spring: tamiya #450/soft spring(red) -Rear shock/spring:tamiya #900/ex.hard spring(white) I use super mini cva shock -tires sorex 40r with hard insert at front and medium insert at rear -the arms are all stock except the turnbuckle for front toe -front/rear diff: f packed with super heavy duty grease/r just a drop for lubricate -bodyshell subaru brz R&D sport -i use brushless 8.5t w/ 64t spur and 27t pinion The car is spinning when i let off the throttle while entering the corner, so i must hold the throttle a little bit to prevent it to spin.. The track is high grip asphalt indoor Any suggestion? Or what setup did you guys use |
Originally Posted by kytr8matic
(Post 14771508)
Hello guys.. i have a problem with the rear spinning on my tt02
Any suggestion? Or what setup did you guys use |
Originally Posted by SteveM
(Post 14771512)
If possible, move the top of the rear shocks inward a hole and try again.
But if it still spining, what causing the issue? *After moving top of the rear shock inward |
Originally Posted by kytr8matic
(Post 14771508)
Hello guys.. i have a problem with the rear spinning on my tt02
My setup: -Front shock/spring: tamiya #450/soft spring(red) -Rear shock/spring:tamiya #900/ex.hard spring(white) I use super mini cva shock -tires sorex 40r with hard insert at front and medium insert at rear -the arms are all stock except the turnbuckle for front toe -front/rear diff: f packed with super heavy duty grease/r just a drop for lubricate -bodyshell subaru brz R&D sport -i use brushless 8.5t w/ 64t spur and 27t pinion The car is spinning when i let off the throttle while entering the corner, so i must hold the throttle a little bit to prevent it to spin.. The track is high grip asphalt indoor Any suggestion? Or what setup did you guys use |
Originally Posted by kytr8matic
(Post 14771515)
I'll try it..
But if it still spining, what causing the issue? *After moving top of the rear shock inward As mentioned, the front is usually setup stiffer than the rear. Also, the diff in the rear should not be built as still as in front. Use lighter diff oil. |
kytr8matic
Your set up is way too stiff to begin with. On high grip carpet, in running 40wt all around with yellow springs in front and red springs in rear. Front diff I have 2.5 mill lube which is almost locked. Rear I have 10k based on th diff mod I posted a few posts back. So I would start off at 40 front and rear You also need to reduce the weight transfer from front to rear. I'm assuming you don't have the type s suspension, so you would need to put spacers inside your front shocks, try 2mm for starter. Tyres: Sorex 40 is for very high outside temp.. So unless your south of the equator in Brazil where it's summer time ;) you need to use 28 to 32 shore. |
Originally Posted by Mini35
(Post 14761236)
I run Tamiya TRF419 front C hubs and steering knuckles on my Type S but I run the TRF Double Cardan Joint shafts too (you have to buy the complete 44mm shaft set then a pair of 42mm bare shafts and build the shorter shafts onto the joints and axles then sell the useless 44mm shafts as Tamiya don't do a complete 42mm shaft set). It's been a 100% reliable set up which I've run constantly for 2 seasons now. Every Yeah Racing part I've ever had in my drivetrain has given me grief. I only use their "static" parts now like servo and motor mounts.
Since switching to the TA05 plastic version (non hard) I have broken 1 c hub in a race, where as the 418/419 would occur every other race. Also I have been running my TT02s with the 44mm DCJ. They fit fine, so you don't have to buy the 42mm shafts |
front/rear diff: f packed with super heavy duty grease/r just a drop for lubricate I suggest starting w/ something like 7k-10k in the rear then go lower as needed. |
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