R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Electric On-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road-2/)
-   -   Tamiya TT02 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/700357-tamiya-tt02-thread.html)

microed 12-09-2016 06:18 PM


Originally Posted by eR1c (Post 14761211)
I love that BMW body!

Looking for some expertise, I am having trouble w/ my Yeah Racing front drive axles/CV joints. The retainer rings keep popping off on both sides...I noticed that the rings are very close to the inner housing of the stock plastic front knuckles.

I have the Tamiya CVD's, but the retainer ring appears to be the same as with the Yeah racing brand. If they keep popping off, it may be because you have them in backwards. I accidentally put one of my rings on backwards and it popped off almost immediately, I flipped the direction and it has not popped off in almost a year.

eR1c 12-09-2016 08:37 PM


I have the Tamiya CVD's, but the retainer ring appears to be the same as with the Yeah racing brand. If they keep popping off, it may be because you have them in backwards. I accidentally put one of my rings on backwards and it popped off almost immediately, I flipped the direction and it has not popped off in almost a year.
shoot, i think you may be right. I recall having that issue years ago w/ another car. Okay, i'll take the hubs apart AGAIN! :)

thanks though!

eR1c 12-10-2016 09:01 AM

okay, i can see that one was backwards ...just reversed so now both should be installed correctly. ...I also dremelled out the inside of each hub a tad so that there is now about 1.5mm of space around the rings. Seems to be working just driving around in my garage.

tommy1030 12-12-2016 05:10 AM

I play my tt02s with teampower black can motor. It is an excellent entertaining car.

tommy1030 12-12-2016 05:26 AM

Some photos of my tt02s
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...C68CDB1901.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...1964ECDF65.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...B0CDED2C23.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...CEDFB332F0.jpg

eR1c 12-12-2016 03:39 PM

Nice! Is that white tub the same as the black tub chassis? -it looks like its a little lower on the edges (but may be that I am not used to seeing it in white).

I notice you have the front bumper on your rear too. -I finally dremelled my rear bumper ...I hated all the extra stuff hanging off the rear.

eR1c 12-12-2016 03:40 PM

I just noticed that both my gear boxes are cracked near the mounting points. ...I have only driven my car on a prepped track and have never crashed. So thinking that maybe I tightened the screws down a bit too much and the chassis flex helped the covers crack? I have a new set on order and plan to not tighten so much.

kytr8matic 12-18-2016 05:47 AM

Hello guys.. i have a problem with the rear spinning on my tt02

My setup:
-Front shock/spring: tamiya #450/soft spring(red)

-Rear shock/spring:tamiya #900/ex.hard spring(white)

I use super mini cva shock

-tires sorex 40r with hard insert at front and medium insert at rear

-the arms are all stock except the turnbuckle for front toe

-front/rear diff: f packed with super heavy duty grease/r just a drop for lubricate

-bodyshell subaru brz R&D sport

-i use brushless 8.5t w/ 64t spur and 27t pinion

The car is spinning when i let off the throttle while entering the corner, so i must hold the throttle a little bit to prevent it to spin..

The track is high grip asphalt indoor

Any suggestion? Or what setup did you guys use

SteveM 12-18-2016 05:54 AM


Originally Posted by kytr8matic (Post 14771508)
Hello guys.. i have a problem with the rear spinning on my tt02

Any suggestion? Or what setup did you guys use

If possible, move the top of the rear shocks inward a hole and try again.

kytr8matic 12-18-2016 05:59 AM


Originally Posted by SteveM (Post 14771512)
If possible, move the top of the rear shocks inward a hole and try again.

I'll try it..
But if it still spining, what causing the issue? *After moving top of the rear shock inward

MD 12-18-2016 06:06 AM


Originally Posted by kytr8matic (Post 14771508)
Hello guys.. i have a problem with the rear spinning on my tt02

My setup:
-Front shock/spring: tamiya #450/soft spring(red)

-Rear shock/spring:tamiya #900/ex.hard spring(white)

I use super mini cva shock

-tires sorex 40r with hard insert at front and medium insert at rear

-the arms are all stock except the turnbuckle for front toe

-front/rear diff: f packed with super heavy duty grease/r just a drop for lubricate

-bodyshell subaru brz R&D sport

-i use brushless 8.5t w/ 64t spur and 27t pinion

The car is spinning when i let off the throttle while entering the corner, so i must hold the throttle a little bit to prevent it to spin..

The track is high grip asphalt indoor

Any suggestion? Or what setup did you guys use

The first thing I would try is reversing your spring and shock oil setup. Normally you want the softer springs in the rear and harder in the front. Many people run the same shock oil all around or a lighter weight in the rear. When you go into the corner all the weight transfers to the front. With the softer springs in the front you will lose rear grip.

SteveM 12-18-2016 06:25 AM


Originally Posted by kytr8matic (Post 14771515)
I'll try it..
But if it still spining, what causing the issue? *After moving top of the rear shock inward

Sounds like you have low rear grip, which results in the rear swinging out. Softer springs, softer rubber (36, 32) lighter shock oil and spring, etc. might help.

As mentioned, the front is usually setup stiffer than the rear. Also, the diff in the rear should not be built as still as in front. Use lighter diff oil.

Raman 12-18-2016 09:26 AM

kytr8matic

Your set up is way too stiff to begin with. On high grip carpet, in running 40wt all around with yellow springs in front and red springs in rear. Front diff I have 2.5 mill lube which is almost locked. Rear I have 10k based on th diff mod I posted a few posts back.

So I would start off at 40 front and rear

You also need to reduce the weight transfer from front to rear. I'm assuming you don't have the type s suspension, so you would need to put spacers inside your front shocks, try 2mm for starter.

Tyres: Sorex 40 is for very high outside temp.. So unless your south of the equator in Brazil where it's summer time ;) you need to use 28 to 32 shore.

Raman 12-18-2016 10:32 AM


Originally Posted by Mini35 (Post 14761236)
I run Tamiya TRF419 front C hubs and steering knuckles on my Type S but I run the TRF Double Cardan Joint shafts too (you have to buy the complete 44mm shaft set then a pair of 42mm bare shafts and build the shorter shafts onto the joints and axles then sell the useless 44mm shafts as Tamiya don't do a complete 42mm shaft set). It's been a 100% reliable set up which I've run constantly for 2 seasons now. Every Yeah Racing part I've ever had in my drivetrain has given me grief. I only use their "static" parts now like servo and motor mounts.

Just a tip to save money, avoid running the 418/419 c hubs, they are very fragile. The stock c hubs that come with the s type work fine with double cardan joints. The 418 c hubs just allow you to remove them with ease, since the cut out is larger.

Since switching to the TA05 plastic version (non hard) I have broken 1 c hub in a race, where as the 418/419 would occur every other race.

Also I have been running my TT02s with the 44mm DCJ. They fit fine, so you don't have to buy the 42mm shafts

eR1c 12-19-2016 06:43 AM


front/rear diff: f packed with super heavy duty grease/r just a drop for lubricate
in my opinion your rear diff is way too tight, your not letting the rear wheels spin independently and thus the rear is spinning out. My suggestion is to keep the front diff tight and loosen the rear.

I suggest starting w/ something like 7k-10k in the rear then go lower as needed.


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:40 AM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.