That's great information. The TT02 steering knuckles are weak. I know this is a pain. Could you post the part numbers? Thank you.

I was looking at the TT02S manual. I have a TT02. I would also have to buy the TT02S arms in order to make the above parts work. Is that correct? Thanks.

Ah, if you have a TT02 its not really a practical option for you (if you buy the parts individually it's expensive to swap to the Type S setup) as you need: shock towers, upper links, lower arms, driveshafts, stub axles, outdrives, suspension hinge pins and locating plates, hubs and steering knuckles and ball studs etc. It's cheaper to buy a complete chassis kit to be honest, or get a used one. I'm in the UK but picked up a good used one with hop ups for £40 ($70) as a spares donor. On the plus side for lower spec racing it's a really tough durable chassis once you eliminate it's 2 main weak points: replace the front dog bones with CVDs or DCJs and use a decent servo saver like an Xray v2 x-stiff one. For you Type S owners the TRF Part # are:

54568 for the steering arms
54580 for the c-hubs

Looks like I raised an issue that others have dealt with,
Awesome info!
I am taking a look at the parts you mentioned.

Yes, not happy w/ Yeah Racing. I usually avoid Yeah and 3Racing for this reason.

Thanks for the excellent information.

I have the Tamiya CVD's, but the retainer ring appears to be the same as with the Yeah racing brand. If they keep popping off, it may be because you have them in backwards. I accidentally put one of my rings on backwards and it popped off almost immediately, I flipped the direction and it has not popped off in almost a year.

shoot, i think you may be right. I recall having that issue years ago w/ another car. Okay, i'll take the hubs apart AGAIN! :)

thanks though!

okay, i can see that one was backwards ...just reversed so now both should be installed correctly. ...I also dremelled out the inside of each hub a tad so that there is now about 1.5mm of space around the rings. Seems to be working just driving around in my garage.

I play my tt02s with teampower black can motor. It is an excellent entertaining car.

Some photos of my tt02s
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...C68CDB1901.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...1964ECDF65.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...B0CDED2C23.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...CEDFB332F0.jpg

Nice! Is that white tub the same as the black tub chassis? -it looks like its a little lower on the edges (but may be that I am not used to seeing it in white).

I notice you have the front bumper on your rear too. -I finally dremelled my rear bumper ...I hated all the extra stuff hanging off the rear.

I just noticed that both my gear boxes are cracked near the mounting points. ...I have only driven my car on a prepped track and have never crashed. So thinking that maybe I tightened the screws down a bit too much and the chassis flex helped the covers crack? I have a new set on order and plan to not tighten so much.

Hello guys.. i have a problem with the rear spinning on my tt02

My setup:
-Front shock/spring: tamiya #450/soft spring(red)

-Rear shock/spring:tamiya #900/ex.hard spring(white)

I use super mini cva shock

-tires sorex 40r with hard insert at front and medium insert at rear

-the arms are all stock except the turnbuckle for front toe

-front/rear diff: f packed with super heavy duty grease/r just a drop for lubricate

-bodyshell subaru brz R&D sport

-i use brushless 8.5t w/ 64t spur and 27t pinion

The car is spinning when i let off the throttle while entering the corner, so i must hold the throttle a little bit to prevent it to spin..

The track is high grip asphalt indoor

Any suggestion? Or what setup did you guys use

If possible, move the top of the rear shocks inward a hole and try again.

I'll try it..
But if it still spining, what causing the issue? *After moving top of the rear shock inward

The first thing I would try is reversing your spring and shock oil setup. Normally you want the softer springs in the rear and harder in the front. Many people run the same shock oil all around or a lighter weight in the rear. When you go into the corner all the weight transfers to the front. With the softer springs in the front you will lose rear grip.

Sounds like you have low rear grip, which results in the rear swinging out. Softer springs, softer rubber (36, 32) lighter shock oil and spring, etc. might help.

As mentioned, the front is usually setup stiffer than the rear. Also, the diff in the rear should not be built as still as in front. Use lighter diff oil.

kytr8matic

Your set up is way too stiff to begin with. On high grip carpet, in running 40wt all around with yellow springs in front and red springs in rear. Front diff I have 2.5 mill lube which is almost locked. Rear I have 10k based on th diff mod I posted a few posts back.

So I would start off at 40 front and rear

You also need to reduce the weight transfer from front to rear. I'm assuming you don't have the type s suspension, so you would need to put spacers inside your front shocks, try 2mm for starter.

Tyres: Sorex 40 is for very high outside temp.. So unless your south of the equator in Brazil where it's summer time ;) you need to use 28 to 32 shore.

Just a tip to save money, avoid running the 418/419 c hubs, they are very fragile. The stock c hubs that come with the s type work fine with double cardan joints. The 418 c hubs just allow you to remove them with ease, since the cut out is larger.

Since switching to the TA05 plastic version (non hard) I have broken 1 c hub in a race, where as the 418/419 would occur every other race.

Also I have been running my TT02s with the 44mm DCJ. They fit fine, so you don't have to buy the 42mm shafts

in my opinion your rear diff is way too tight, your not letting the rear wheels spin independently and thus the rear is spinning out. My suggestion is to keep the front diff tight and loosen the rear.

I suggest starting w/ something like 7k-10k in the rear then go lower as needed.

Wow.. thanks for the advice..
Actually i live in indonesia (equator country) hot as hell 😂😂

Today i change the wing because the stock one from brz body is too flat.. no downforce at all..

The suspension setup that you guys said is right.. same as the theory from internet

But in here all rc touring player *even the pro use the setup like that but need big amount of downforce at the back of the car

My car has the same setup as my friend.. except the bodyshell

His is raikiri gt and mine brz R&D version, his car is stable no spining then we change the bodyshell and his car has same issue as me lol

I still using the stock one tho if i use oil it will leak out

The front is packed with super heavy duty grease

But the back just a tip, the diff still loose

BRZ body is the top body used at Tamiya track in California... So it's a good choice. Most use the stock wing.

I can't speak to what the pros in Indonesia run, but most factory drivers that post their set up use the Internet theory.

Try out the "internet" set up and see if it solves your problem. It doesn't hurt.

It will make your life easier when you figure out the baseline set up and then tune the final parts with wing, body.

Thanks for the comments on the 44mm bones. I confess I never bothered to try the 44mm ones, I built them from new with 42mm ones and they also fit fine lol. And yes the 418 C-hubs are indeed fragile. I alternate between them and the flexi TA05v2 / FF03 ones depending on what I put my hands on first in my spares box. The TA05v2 ones 54031 or FF03 51293 do seem to last better, although I find not crashing really helps too.

Not hitting things always helps

Usgt build
 

What pinion and spur should I start with a 21.5 brushless setup?

If you have the high speed gear set and use the original motor mount, you can go with 82 x 49. That will get you in the ballpark of where you need to be.

In case it's not obvious, that's 64dp not the Tamiya 0.6 mod metric pitch gears. 82/49 gets you a 4.35:1 ratio.

Isn't that more of a 13.5 FDR, rather than for a 21.5?

82/49 64pitch....got it.

Thanks for adding that. I should have said that in my earlier post.

Lots of variables to deal with such as size of track, brand of motor, timing, etc. However, 4.35 FDR will get you close to where you need to be.

I'm running a 78/58 64p for 21.5 Novak Vulcan, zero timing.... Which is 3.5 fdr. To get there, I'm using the yeah racing mount and the gear cover over the pinion had to be trimmed... So not exactly TCS legal.

I generally set mine up in a similar way when I run it in the VTA class, but have an extra gear cover and stock motor mount to use for when I do TCS races.

Tamiya is releasing two new hard chassis for the TT02.. one in white and one in blue. Should have done black as well..

47339　　TT-02 Lower Deck (Hard/Blue)
47340　　TT-02 Lower Deck (Hard/White)

Yep, it's cool they are doing those stiffer chassis. But blue or white??

I get the white since they already have a white. I'm perplexed at the blue, it will look too gaughty in my opinion.

Good news that tamiya will release the white
part A and white spur gear cover. Must buy item for those who use the white tub!

I like the color options ...but think i'll stick w/ black. :)

Question for other TT02 owners. I've had mine built for a while and just recently decided to go looking for the wide axles and realized they're not in the box. Is it possible Tamiya doesn't include them in all the TT02 kits? I have the 99 Monte Carlo Impreza. Maybe the wide/long axles only came in the Porsches? Can anyone confirm?

In which case, I'm now searching for 4 long axles and 2 wide hubs (I still had a pair of the wide hubs attached to the sprue).

I seem to remember to have had them come with the Super GT Nissan GT-R, even though they are not needed for the build.