I think TT02 is not effective for club racing at all. The inherent design makes it not great for racing against current touring car designs. I think 3racing, Spec R etc offers much better valued product for racing. You will spend more money making a TT02 competitive than just buying a 419x. TT02 is better for running on less than idea tracks or having fun in unprepared surfaces. In rallying it is pretty good as well.

I've a Type S sat in the shed doing nothing. It has alloy steering (not Tamiya sadly) and a genuine Tamiya alloy motor mount and high speed gear adaptor. Looking for £65 posted.

TT02 Type S is fine in spec class racing but yes against a full blown TC you're turning up at a knife fight with a banana.

3 racing sakura, hobby king bt4 are competitive
Or buy a used race level TC

I've only had my TT02-S for a few weeks. I set it up as a back up to my 419 for USGT class (yes I know a drastic back up lol)

From the start, the TT02-S proved to be very capable. Lots of grip so far on carpet, a little too much for my liking.

Are there better kits out there for same price, definitely.. But I wouldn't write it off.

Unfortunately if you start off with any version other than the S, you're going to spend a lot of money to make it competitive.. So choose wisely!

At our club races, the TT-02R is very competitive against other TC Chassis like Xray and other unless it's not to hot. We drive 17,5T and a Fdr of 5.0.

It's also worth considering what others may be driving.. If it's a good community you may be able to get spare parts of ppl when you're in need..

If you're that one person that drives the tt02 and you break something most likely you'll have no one to fall back on...

Totally agree. I run my tt-02d type S regularly in a very competitive VTA class at my local track and have even managed to win with it. Only upgrades I made were front CVDs and the Yeah Racing motor mount so I can have more choices of gear selection. Neither of these upgrades are absolutely necessary to make the car competitive. The car is easy to drive and very consistent throughout the entire race. I think it could work for USGT too, but I have not tried it. Any class faster than that may put you at a disadvantage.

Ive been a fan of the TT series, mainly because of all the upgrades and taking a basic vehicle and making it race ready, especially the optional gear setup to change gear pitch.

Yes, I forgot to mention the spur gear adapter. A must have for me because I like to run 64p gears.

Hello everyone! Yesterday my new D-Like Mazda RX-7 body has arrived and, as the weather is still sunny and hot, I painted it with Tamiya PS-5 Black and PS-59 Dark Metallic Blue. I really like it! It seems to have good quality and resistance (I don't know if it's better or worse compared to Tamiya bodies). I also installed Killerbody carbon look rear wing and side mirrors and Slidelogy exhausts.
I also received Tamiya High Speed Gear Set and the car is a bit faster now. I'll check the temperature and see if I can change motor timing for higher top speed.
Some pictures of my new body:

rear ball diffs
 

Hey folks, anybody in here used the TT01 ball diffs in there TT02 chassis yet. I bought the TT01 ball diff in lieu of the Type S gear diff but found the metal outdrives to be too big for my rear axles. You actually have to use the plastic bulky dog bones for those outdrives. If any of you have replaced the outdrives to something more suitable, please post up your part along with a parts number so I can get this thing going again.

Note to self, just buy a 419 next time.

You need Tamiya item number 53806

https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53806

Does anyone know of a product/hack that can be used to make the front body mounts more widely spaced on a TT02? I just got an HPI '69 Camaro body for mine and of course, the body posts want to come right on the edges of the hood cowl!!

There are two holes on the top bumper support (piece that sandwiches the foam bumper to bottom support). You can use two body posts there. You would need this set.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=583

This looks like the perfect solution. It looks like the body mount holes in the bumper are a little more widely spaced than the ones on the shock tower. Plus, the cowl is much flatter that close to the front. Thanks!

Obviously a fan of box art. Body took longer than the rest of the car to do but I'm pretty satisfied with the results. I put a 8.5 brushless and that cheap duratrax ESC for some more zip, too much motor I'm sure but it sure is fun.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Hobbies/I...0161944-X2.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Hobbies/I...0161945-X2.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Hobbies/I...161944a-XL.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/Hobbies/I...5161943-X2.jpg

Love it!

I like it too. I looks that body should have a ton of front down-force.

TT02 Camaro
 

I just put this together to mess around with in parking lots, etc:

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...e/SAM_1389.jpg

http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/...e/SAM_1388.jpg

argghhh, just typed out a long response ...somehow the site didn't post what I wrote.

in short,
awesome capri body! Loven' the camaro too!

Thanks!

Speaking of TT02s, I'm sure this subject has been beaten to death, but are there any effective aftermarket parts that address the steering slop these cars have? Something cheap like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141510534923...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Buy a shim kit, that's the best solution for slop. You can shim the slop out of the plastic arms and not waste money on aluminium bits

Does someone make a "shim kit" for this particular application? If not, what parts do you recommend? Thanks by the way.

steering you would need 3mm shim kit 53585

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1809

suspension on TT02 standard probably 4mm shim kit 53586 - I have the type s which requires 3 mmm

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=623

axles usually 5mm shim kit 53587

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=622

Thanks a whole bunch there breyton.

After starting parking lot racing with some friends this summer with equal build TT-02, the indoor season brought a big surprise with three more guys taking on the "challenge". Today it all came together and we nearly blocked the track 😂
It was nice to see everyone having a big smile on his face while driving and enjoying the look of these beauties on track. A friend made a short video. I couldn't copy a link with the Ipad, but you will find it on Facebook looking for Gregor König - RC Car.
I drove the E30 M3. Unfortunately several bearing failures gave me a rough start...(as you can see on the video). In the end I got pole and could win one of our many fun races.

Now the link to the video:
https://www.facebook.com/gregorrccar...6136698852048/

Driving TT-02 is all about fun and beautiful bodies for me. Finally I can drive my 1:1 car as 1/10 RC car with this beautiful body:

https://abload.de/img/dsc_0027myqx8.jpg

https://abload.de/img/dsc_0026o9rze.jpg

https://abload.de/img/dsc_0025xcrqc.jpg

https://abload.de/img/dsc_0021tmr1b.jpg

https://abload.de/img/dsc_0016xnre5.jpg

https://abload.de/img/dsc_001507rv3.jpg

https://abload.de/img/dsc_0013zkqkl.jpg

:D

Nice photos you have there. Good looking body. Do you know what the part number is for that body set?

Carisma 15440

Just one more picture of this beauty with more fitting wheels:

https://abload.de/img/img_0828g3qjg.jpg

Did you paint the body yourself or buy the prepainted?

Mine was unpainted, but already cut.
There is also a painted and rtr version on the market. It costs around 100€.

The number of activities shows how good this chassis is. Nobody seems to have problems xD
Just a strange german guy hangs around to show off his bodies...
So here we go again:

http://abload.de/img/imageompnt.jpeg

http://abload.de/img/imagewzom4.jpeg

http://abload.de/img/imagesbo59.jpeg

http://abload.de/img/imagecoode.jpeg

http://abload.de/img/image0zrb9.jpeg

Super GT GT500-class Calsonic Impul GT-R made from Motul-Autech GT-R Body kit and a Tamiya Calsonic sticker sheet.

One more :sweat:

https://abload.de/img/dsc_0023opspj.jpg

I think I may have found a solution to run diff fluid in the current TT02 diff, by using the internal parts of the TRF419 diff.. eg diff out drives, cross pin, diff gears. For the O-ring I used the Xray 5x2 o-ring which is a little meatier than the 419 ones. I also placed two shims 0,2 and 0,3 (54589 ) on top of O-ring and then placed the cross pin.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4908

Since the diff out drives are larger, you will need to add the outdrive protectors. Since there is no gasket between the gear and casing, I used associated green slime.

The mesh on the diff once assembled appears to be spot on, but only time will tell.

The last two pictures

I love that BMW body!

Looking for some expertise, I am having trouble w/ my Yeah Racing front drive axles/CV joints. The retainer rings keep popping off on both sides...I noticed that the rings are very close to the inner housing of the stock plastic front knuckles. I think at certain turning angles or during intense movement the rings rub against the inner knuckle and pop off. I ordered a set of aluminum knuckles as they have a larger inner area, that is the approach to the inner bearing is wider and allows more room between the retainer ring of the CV joint and the knuckle housing. However the front aluminum knuckle I ordered does not fit the drift type S (note I am not set up for drift), ..the standard TT02 front assembly is different than the drift s front assembly. I much prefer the drift s assembly as it is closer to that of a TC car (standard turnbuckles and C hubs, not the large collar design and fixed turnbuckle).

So 2 things:
1) has anyone had this experience and if so is there another cv joint axle I can try ...I think a brand "jazzrider" has one w/ a retainer collar rather than a small ring which looks promising.

2) I have a set of standard aluminum yeah racing front knuckles and rear aluminum yeah racing hub carriers that will be up for sale. If interested PM me, i'll provide photos and we can make a deal. They are both new, the rear's are still sealed in bag. I can't use either w/ my setup.

Maybe a photo would be worth a thousand words, ...I can provide photos of what I am talking about, yet not til I get home from work.

I run Tamiya TRF419 front C hubs and steering knuckles on my Type S but I run the TRF Double Cardan Joint shafts too (you have to buy the complete 44mm shaft set then a pair of 42mm bare shafts and build the shorter shafts onto the joints and axles then sell the useless 44mm shafts as Tamiya don't do a complete 42mm shaft set). It's been a 100% reliable set up which I've run constantly for 2 seasons now. Every Yeah Racing part I've ever had in my drivetrain has given me grief. I only use their "static" parts now like servo and motor mounts.