![]() |
Originally Posted by jgil089
(Post 15835382)
I would just go with bearings and put the 10.5T in. I've been running a few of these for years with minimal upgrades and they are bulletproof. Yes, the alloy propshaft is probably better, but I haven't noticed any major wear or anything from just running the kit one.
The high speed gearset and Yeah Racing motor mount are useful because it allows you to swap both spur and pinion and get amy gearing you want. The other one is oil shocks as they are much better than the friction onea the kit comes with. If you want to upgrade parts beyond bearings, shocks and pinion, look carefully at why and what it will cost. The TT02 kit is fantastic but has its limitations. Dont throw much money at it, its not worth it. Keep it as the carpark racer and use it as intended, if you go racing then buy something like the Express XQ2S. Definitely will take your advice about carefully considering the various upgrades. Kinda experienced sticker shock when I saw what Tamiya wanted for the full upgrade steering set. |
I'm new, could someone message me about tips for beginners?
|
Originally Posted by Jenny_New2RC
(Post 15836354)
I'm new, could someone message me about tips for beginners?
|
I am in the process of converting a TT-02 S into a TT-02 SR. Part of this process requires replacing the dog bone setup with universal swing shafts. Originally I decided to buy Tamiya #42346 TRF 420 wheel axles for my TA07 and then move the TA07 wheel axles over to my TT02 SR. However I discovered that the 420 axles have shorter threads on them. The TRF 420 wheel axles have about 8mm of thread and the Tamiya #54515 XV-01 universal axles have about 10mm of thread.
Since I plan on running wider wheel hexes on my car this extra 2mm mattered to me. Also since I'm going to be running this TT-02 in VTA, I wanted the ability to space out the wheel more to better fill out the wheel arches of the body. One positive thing about the Tamiya #42346 TRF 420 axles is that they are 1 gram lighter than the Tamiya #51445 TRF417 axles. I am also buying some lower profile wheel nuts so I could still use the TRF420 axles as spares or on my TA-07. Please note the wheel axles on the Tamiya TA07 and the rear of the Tamiya TT-02 SR are Tamiya #51445. Tamiya #54515 XV-01 Assembly Universal Shaft (Front/2pcs) fits at the REAR of the TT-02 SR as it uses the exact same individual pieces.I could also use #54515 at the front of a TT-02 S or SR, but I will eventually install double cardan shafts at the front of my TT-02 SR kit. Another quick note. TT-02 SR uses 42mm swing shafts at the rear with Tamiya #51445 axles TA-07 Pro uses 44mm swing shafts with Tamiya #51445 axles. XV-01 Pro also uses Tamiya #51445 axles at the front of the car (the rear axles are wider) Here is a picture of the 2 axles https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...2d186f3972.jpg |
Alright guys, read through this thread a few times before dropping way more than I should have on a TT02R. Bonus is, I was able to order a base TT02 Audi V8 kit that I already had hopups for thanks to building the R first.
Biggest thing I have seen here is stripped gears. I run 2s and 3s through stock diffs and high speed gearset. THE CATCH is, that I run metal/plastic at EVERY gear junction. Ive been beating on the TT02R for almost 6 months now. The only thing I haven't done is stripped gears. Running a 5.74FDR on a HW MAX10 EZRUN 4000kv brushless. I run metal pinion on both diffs(WR02 diff pinions filed down to match the height on the stock pinions), and a metal pinion on the brushless. Gear mesh is CRITICAL to not strip gears on a basher setup with high powered brushless. This does not apply to the racers with great throttle control. The metal\plastic gear combo will absorb the most force without stripping the gears thanks to physics. Another thing I learned, most of the yeah racing parts are decent. But stay away from the yeah racing aluminum steering set. I think the plastic steering parts have less slop. my PB so far is 47mph on 2s, and I haven't been over 63mph on 3s without crashing. To test a theory I have seen mentioned, I've removed all suspension shims. None of it was too tight when static, But keeping in mind how the chassis loads under throttle on brushless, the shims may become too tight once that occurs, and could be the driving factor behind the instability. Another thing. The yeah racing shocks work great the first time you assemble them. But if you ever have to change pistons or oil, good luck with them not leaking. I've ordered another set of the mini CVAs to build up for the chassis to replace the yeah racing leakers. I've tried 4-5 different suspension setups with the YR shocks and positions, and I've gotten it super close. I think my remaining issues are related to the shims tightening the suspension upon load. I've also just gotten the Flysky Noble NB4 and it is phenominal. Coming over from a modded GT3B, the adjustability and low latency is SUPREME. |
The TT02-R Godzilla GTR. Since I cant really post anything yet, here's a link to my Reddit profile with lots of pics and videos of the GTR and a few pics of the new Audi as well.
add the . wwwredditcom/user/TurboThirdGen |
Did you put anything in your diffs? My TT02 stock diffs are not sealed, so I opted to put extra sticky grease in there to make it feel more like a tight ball diff. There are sealed aftermarket diffs out there for the TT02 if you want to experiment tuning with silicone oils.
|
Thanks for info TurboThirdGen ! I might try to ditch the shims too and see what results I get.
I've been having a blast with mine (plain old TT02 GR Supra kit) over the last few weeks. Built and tested fully stock, except for the shocks-- Those were awful, but luckily the fancy oil filled internal spring dampers I had from a fail project fit perfect and work great! While the steering slop is a bit maddening, I've been having fun adjusting and tuning, and shimming. After a few rounds of testing, I trimmed down that center driveshaft cradle thing (D10 or D15) so the steering arms would stop hitting it. I also dropped in the alu. drive shaft, prop joints, 25T pinion, and 10.5T sensored brushless HW quicrun. Ditched the servo saver and just running no saver for now (will upgrade eventually). and .... WOOOOOOO!!!!! No idea on mph, but it feels great and very fast. I'll be going back to stock electronics when everyone in my group is ready for the spec racing. I ordered the RcAidong Steering kit ($30)- mostly because I wanted a kit that included adjustable turnbuckles and wasn't over $50. I was almost going to order the YR kit, but no turnbuckles were included in their $25 kit. Also have the high speed gear set on the way too. |
Originally Posted by userst
(Post 15841609)
Did you put anything in your diffs? My TT02 stock diffs are not sealed, so I opted to put extra sticky grease in there to make it feel more like a tight ball diff. There are sealed aftermarket diffs out there for the TT02 if you want to experiment tuning with silicone oils.
I'm using standard TT02 diffs. Lock block in front and JBweld plastic locked rear diff. When it was locked front/open rear, it would absolutely destroy the rear tires in short order cause they were spinning faster than the gear diff could handle. Plus there was top end fall-off. Its a speed runner/basher for onroad. Futaba GYC441 gyro on AVCS mode about 30%. My instability I believe is shim/shock issues. I've wound up with the top E-clip in the same shock coming off twice. I'm sure using the droop sleeves in the new CVAs should help too. Its the torque steer being multiplied over 3/4 throttle. Waiting on it to dry out a little more to test this out. |
I picked up another Tamiya TT-02 this morning, this time a White Special built but never run with the silver can motor and Tamiya ESC as a rally car with the Mitsubishi Lancer body . The blue camo colour scheme and striking looks nice. The previous owner had installed a YR light kit in the body and everything checked out perfectly. Just need to glue the tires and she's ready to attack the dirt trails.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...83a017cc56.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...cbda6cd315.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...dde35b3f3b.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...8206e7632e.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...4bb1d8c600.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...30c0c68792.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...352befa6d7.jpg |
White chassis on dirt? That’s a bad combo 😂😅
|
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 15841975)
White chassis on dirt? That’s a bad combo 😂😅
I know, seems odd to me too. |
Originally Posted by SteveM
(Post 15841977)
I know, seems odd to me too.
|
Originally Posted by Gyosho
(Post 15841996)
seems awesome to me! it's gonna get dirty! and there ain't nothing wrong with that!
|
Originally Posted by Gyosho
(Post 15841621)
Thanks for info TurboThirdGen ! I might try to ditch the shims too and see what results I get.
I've been having a blast with mine (plain old TT02 GR Supra kit) over the last few weeks. Built and tested fully stock, except for the shocks-- Those were awful, but luckily the fancy oil filled internal spring dampers I had from a fail project fit perfect and work great! While the steering slop is a bit maddening, I've been having fun adjusting and tuning, and shimming. After a few rounds of testing, I trimmed down that center driveshaft cradle thing (D10 or D15) so the steering arms would stop hitting it. I also dropped in the alu. drive shaft, prop joints, 25T pinion, and 10.5T sensored brushless HW quicrun. Ditched the servo saver and just running no saver for now (will upgrade eventually). and .... WOOOOOOO!!!!! No idea on mph, but it feels great and very fast. I'll be going back to stock electronics when everyone in my group is ready for the spec racing. I ordered the RcAidong Steering kit ($30)- mostly because I wanted a kit that included adjustable turnbuckles and wasn't over $50. I was almost going to order the YR kit, but no turnbuckles were included in their $25 kit. Also have the high speed gear set on the way too. Honestly I feel like the 2 Tamiya steering kits are the only way to get steering without slop. I'm sure there are other setups that are good, But I haven't had those yet to tell for myself. I think the YR steering can be tightened up by installing matching bearings top and bottom of the steering bridge, As it looks like thats where most of the play comes from. Unfortunately the YR kit only comes with 2 bearings for that location. I've tried countless shims and spacers to clear it out and couldn't, so for the rally build I'll most likely grab the full Tamiya kit with high torque servo saver. I did however file the collars for the center bearings so the nuts I used on the top actually sandwiches the bearings without binding. Then maybe I can mess with the servo savers plastic block and find a solution for that. Honestly if the block that the springs rode against was metal, It wouldn't wear so severely after a few hits. No idea why Tamiya didn't make the back piece metal too. I run the Type S steering setup on the TT02R and couldn't be happier with that setup. Not the TT02-S steering. The YR setup being so sloppy isnt that much of a big deal on the rally car but I like slopless setups when available. Waiting on PS metallic red and PS white to finish off my Tommy edition Evo VII body for the rally chassis! Unfortunately the matching wheels are no longer available. Tamiya 50724 PIAA Accord wheels :/ |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:37 AM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.