Front left wheel nut came loose today. Stopped driving right away but front end was scraping a good distance before the car stopped rolling. Bottom screw head got grinded down pretty good.

The threads on the Tamiya universal shafts are a couple mm too short for M4 lock nut to thread fully through the nylon insert.

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Of all the cars I own this tto2 is my absolute favorite it is so fun to drive so easy to drive I just rebuilt the whole car replace the diffs put ceramic bearings in it and can't wait to tear it up in usgt I've run this car in just about every class and takes a licking and keeps on ticking this chassis is I think around 12 years old and still going strong if you're thinking about getting one don't think it's awesome this started out as a tto2r and all I did was add a set of yeah racing aluminum shocks to it the yeah racing adjustable aluminum motor mount... three racing differentials front and rear and the three racing spool and this thing still kicks ass....

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I can be more competitive with my high dollar x-ray but I have way more fun with my tto2... And by more competitive I mean instead of finishing fifth I can finish in the top three out of 10 racers the tto2 can definitely hold its own if you have one just keep practicing and enjoy it the number one upgrade you can do is the three racing diffs and the yeah racing 50 mm shock set.... that will get your car dialed good luck guys...

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d6a06a2282.jpg

Thanks for the reminder of the mount. Meanwhile, here's a picture of my Volt Racing Mustang. I'm still finishing up the decals and some painting:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...97b41e2600.jpg
Got another question: I'm still waiting on my XT60 connectors to come in so I can solder it to my ESC's tamiya battery connector, so I've been using a tamiya to XT60 adapter just to test the car until I can solder the XT60 in. I read somewhere that using the tamiya connector is hampering the efficiency of the battery to the ESC?

Yes, the Tamiya connectors are among the worst, pretty much anything else is an improvement, certainly the XT60 is. Also, adapters should generally be avoided wherever possible (unless for testing, etc.) - a single connector instead of several in a row is always preferable.

Thanks for that. Gives me a bit more "confidence" that the TT-02 I'll be building for USGT will actually be competitive...and, by "competitive", I mean, I'll be able to greatly enjoy racing with it (as I won't ever expect to win, especially against those I'll be racing against).

For usgt with shaft drive you need to run a teeny tiny spur and a large pinion and you can keep up with the best of them. I am currently running a 70t spur and a 55 tooth pinion. 64p . With the usgt motor you can gear that thing to the moon and it'll still run nice and cool. If our track was more flowing I would go up to a 57 pinion but we have lots of 180s.

Just ordered the TT02 Supra kit! Will be my first Tamiya kit.

Great info in this thread. Was planning on running the Hobbywing Quicrun 10.5T Sensored brushless set up - mostly for just bashing around on asphalt lots. . . is that too much motor for a stock set up (with bearings instead of bushings, of course)?

Gonna drop in a Kyosho metal gear standard servo (just laying around here) and FS-BS6 rx to complete the electronics.

I don't know... it might work, but for how long? Personally, I would not try with just a base kit without some more tuning. Bearings is of course the absolute minimum, but with a 10.5T I'd probably go with the aluminum prop shaft and hardened (or steel) pinion might be a good idea as well. Probably even more than that should be recommended, but that's what immediately came to my head.

Thanks for the advice! I guess I will be building up to the 10.5T over time rather than just start at the 10.5T ... Good thing it comes with that Tamiya ESC and brushed motor.

Should I be looking at every aluminum and metal upgrade for the drivetrain before stepping up the motor? Like, diff gears too?

Instead of buying a complete set, I would suggest to get aTT-02R and the body separately.
TT-02 R comes with a lot of the needed hop-ups (shocks, bearings, high speed gears, rear toe in hubs, etc.) right out of the box.
Pimping a standard TT-02 up to the same level will create higher costs....

The TT02R is discontinued. It also didn't come with the aluminum steering components, nor the adjustable arms.

Ok so he has the RR adjustable arms.. his point is not to write off the TT02.

I raced the Type S in USGT for a good year and it did extremely well. I then handed it to my son who was 5 at the time for his basher. As he grew he raced it in 3 Tamiya TCS races, was crowned champ at last one. Then I moved him into VTA with it and was doing so well that I picked up a TA08 Pro for him.

I would just go with bearings and put the 10.5T in. I've been running a few of these for years with minimal upgrades and they are bulletproof. Yes, the alloy propshaft is probably better, but I haven't noticed any major wear or anything from just running the kit one.

The high speed gearset and Yeah Racing motor mount are useful because it allows you to swap both spur and pinion and get amy gearing you want. The other one is oil shocks as they are much better than the friction onea the kit comes with.

If you want to upgrade parts beyond bearings, shocks and pinion, look carefully at why and what it will cost. The TT02 kit is fantastic but has its limitations. Dont throw much money at it, its not worth it. Keep it as the carpark racer and use it as intended, if you go racing then buy something like the Express XQ2S.