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Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 15780949)
For 13.5 you should to be around 4.5 fdr .. I believe.. maybe start above that and keep an eye on Temps
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Question???
I plan on running the Hobbywing 1060 esc. I know they are prone to limp mode. My question is will putting a glitch buster at the reciever do the same effect as if I solder a cap onto the battery wires on the ESC?? I'm trying to prevent the limp mode. I'll be running a normal digital servo (non HV) on 5v (ESC) and a torque tuned motor. Thanks
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The 1060's manual specifies the BEC at 6V/3A, not 5V.
If you plug a glitch buster to the receiver, it will effect the output of the BEC (being more resistant to peak loads). Adding a cap to the battery wires has an influence on the input side of BEC/ESC. I assume that limp mode issues are not directly associated with the BEC overloaded, its more a problem of an unstable input voltage because of motor peak loads. A cap parallel to the battery can improve and avoid this (cap can instantly deliver the needed high amps) So, adding a glitch buster is not really the same as adding a battery cap. |
Originally Posted by JJ100179
(Post 15782117)
The 1060's manual specifies the BEC at 6V/3A, not 5V.
If you plug a glitch buster to the receiver, it will effect the output of the BEC (being more resistant to peak loads). Adding a cap to the battery wires has an influence on the input side of BEC/ESC. I assume that limp mode issues are not directly associated with the BEC overloaded, its more a problem of an unstable input voltage because of motor peak loads. A cap parallel to the battery can improve and avoid this (cap can instantly deliver the needed high amps) So, adding a glitch buster is not really the same as adding a battery cap. |
I've run a ton of 1060's with motors down to 13T with Savox servos and Lipos and have never had an issue with one going into limp mode.
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Originally Posted by CTRJ
(Post 15782146)
I've run a ton of 1060's with motors down to 13T with Savox servos and Lipos and have never had an issue with one going into limp mode.
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I recently bought two. One is in a Tamiya M05 with a torque tuned motor. In all 3 qualifiers and the 3 finals at my last meeting it went into limp mode whilst doing the warm up laps. In the actual runs it only did it once on the first lap of the last final. It never did it off the line ie stationary to full throttle, really weird. Never once had an issue with my ancient tamiya esc. Every time if I just sat for a few seconds it then seemed to go back to normal
The other one I put in a TT01 with a team powers brushed which is quicker than a torque tuned and I presume more power hungry, only gave that a couple of runs but no issues. Going to put the M05 one into nimh mode and wire a cap in if it does it again, if that doesn't work then it goes in the bin. I wish I had researched them first as there are so many reports of it. I just bought them as I wanted a cheap waterproof esc with lipo protection |
Originally Posted by dlruk
(Post 15782386)
I recently bought two. One is in a Tamiya M05 with a torque tuned motor. In all 3 qualifiers and the 3 finals at my last meeting it went into limp mode whilst doing the warm up laps. In the actual runs it only did it once on the first lap of the last final. It never did it off the line ie stationary to full throttle, really weird. Never once had an issue with my ancient tamiya esc. Every time if I just sat for a few seconds it then seemed to go back to normal
The other one I put in a TT01 with a team powers brushed which is quicker than a torque tuned and I presume more power hungry, only gave that a couple of runs but no issues. Going to put the M05 one into nimh mode and wire a cap in if it does it again, if that doesn't work then it goes in the bin. I wish I had researched them first as there are so many reports of it. I just bought them as I wanted a cheap waterproof esc with lipo protection |
Originally Posted by jamsandolina
(Post 15782479)
it seems it is a shot in the dark on wether you get a good one or bad one. I may just go with the new Tamiya Tble-04s. It's low voltage cutoff is set at 6.2V. I know it's alittle low for lipos but races are only 7-10 minutes long. I don't understand why Hobbywing doesn't correct this known issue. Raise the price and make the Hobbywing 6V/3A and fix the limp mode issue then they would have a winner on their hands for a brushed ESC. Can you use the Hobbywing 1080 for racers?? It states it's for crawlers.
HobbyWing makes perfectly affordable and capable brushless esc's that are better suited to competition. Don't paint yourself into a corner with the limitations associated with older technology. |
Originally Posted by simple
(Post 15782487)
There is no incentive to make "race worthy" brushed esc's , when the international bodies that sanction RC competition have long ago moved on to brushless.
HobbyWing makes perfectly affordable and capable brushless esc's that are better suited to competition. Don't paint yourself into a corner with the limitations associated with older technology. |
Originally Posted by jamsandolina
(Post 15782501)
I'm not trying to paint myself into a corner. I want to race in the TCS in the Spec/Novice class and that class has to run the torque tuned motor or silver can stock motor. So I'm limited on what ESC I can use. If you can help me out with some suggestions that would be great.
If your budget allows, I seriously recommend considering Tekin FX esc's... Even though they are marketed as crawling esc's, they were fully developed long before crawling was part of the market. They are a full option brushed esc that is very suitable to race spec. They are also super tiny and compact, making them really awesome for fitting into tight spaces and keeping your center of gravity low. Back when I raced Tamiya mini, they were the ESC to have. https://www.teamtekin.com/fxr.html Additionally, Tekin RS esc's can be wired for brushed motors and set to brushed mode. Something I can't do with my HobbyWing Xerun esc's unfortunately https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...tt1157/p972038 |
Originally Posted by simple
(Post 15782518)
The stock Tamiya ESC is a good choice.
If your budget allows, I seriously recommend considering Tekin FX esc's... Even though they are marketed as crawling esc's, they were fully developed long before crawling was part of the market. They are a full option brushed esc that is very suitable to race spec. They are also super tiny and compact, making them really awesome for fitting into tight spaces and keeping your center of gravity low. Back when I raced Tamiya mini, they were the ESC to have. https://www.teamtekin.com/fxr.html Additionally, Tekin RS esc's can be wired for brushed motors and set to brushed mode. Something I can't do with my HobbyWing Xerun esc's unfortunately https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekin-r...tt1157/p972038 |
Bumpers???
Do TT01 bumpers fit our TT02. I ordered a bumper from the TamiyaUSA website from the TT02R spare parts list and the pic is not what I was sent. I can't seem to find the correct part number for the bumper that comes with the R version of our cars.
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Delete
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Originally Posted by jamsandolina
(Post 15782606)
I've been researching brushed ESCs and can't justify spending $100 on an ESC for a $115 car. The Hobbywing 1080 is the one I've decided to go with. It's only $41 per unit which isn't bad plus has all the features needed in an ESC. Thanks for the help and advice
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