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Just use a13 and widen the rear. Front looks okay. However, wider rear makes for a aggressive rear end
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3 Attachment(s)
Here's my TT02. Running a Speed Passion GT2.0 LPF Bluestar, Speed Passion V3 MMM 13.5t, DX3R pro and a Savox 1251mg. Also, there are no stickers on the shell. It's all paint.
-Jeremy |
Looks great :)
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https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...091519_064.jpg
That was a lot of decals! I still need to widen the wheelbase. This is gonna be super fun on the Tamiya track. Okay so I have a problem. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-L...014750_916.jpg Earlier I thought A13 was for the rear and C6 was for the front but thats not the case. They are both used together for the rear to get wider tread which is what I need to make the wheels sit flush. The problem is my kit did not come with part C6 and according to a comment some dude posted on that TT02 blog, his didn't come with it either for the Capri. Our kits just came with the shorter axle. This seems like an error or something on Tamiya's part. Should I contact them or am I still doing something wrong? |
It looks like the rear wheels are built like the front. The barrels ( Outer sliver parts ) need to be flipped around for more offset. As you can see in the Tamiya promo photo the rear wheels have a lot more dish than the front.
-Jeremy |
Originally Posted by Silberpfeil
(Post 12910546)
It looks like the rear wheels are built like the front. The barrels ( Outer sliver parts ) need to be flipped around for more offset. As you can see in the Tamiya promo photo the rear wheels have a lot more dish than the front.
-Jeremy Yeah that totally fixed my issue, I hadn't even thought about flipping the wheels. Thanks! |
Hi guys,
just rebuilding my TT02 for this years spec class Racing. I noticed, that with the rear suspension limiters and CVA-Dampers built according TT01 manual, the TT02 has much more front than rear droop. So I wanted to ask the Racers here, if anyone already experimented with different internal spacers on the front, to reduce max. lengths (and droop). I didnīt see a shock manual from Tamiya so far, that suggests how to set up the lengths. Br, Matthias |
I added a spacer in the font to dial out more of the front droop. I prefer the rear to have a little more droop than the front. (Albeit both quite similar in range)
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building my TT02 currently, and is targeting to use the 90T/ 50T tamiya spur/ pinion combo.
so, happily picked up my dremel, and start working away... and shit happens when i was a little bit impatient. :cry::cry: the pic speaks a thousand words. so now, all those who have dremeled their motor cover, can post some pics to share. :D http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/V2-G/IMAG0044.jpg spot the minor hole that appeared when i overdo it? :sweat::sweat: |
Originally Posted by Qatmix
(Post 12912485)
I added a spacer in the font to dial out more of the front droop. I prefer the rear to have a little more droop than the front. (Albeit both quite similar in range)
Probably I have to make some trials how much will be good on mine. As we have some higher Plastic curbs, too less droop always ends with flying high when hitting one.:lol: Br, Matthias |
I've used a dremel to for more space in de gear cover, but i was more patient :p
This wknd my youngest girl will be racing the TT-02, i put more spacers in de rear shocks so the weight transfer goes towards the rear. Just the avoid over steering and have a better rear grip. |
I'm having trouble dialing in the steering on my TT02. It doesn't seem to want to go straight. What things should I be looking at?
Also I was told adding shims to take out slop is something I should do. What should I use for shims? Do you guys just use small, thin washers or something? |
Originally Posted by visuvius
(Post 12933826)
I'm having trouble dialing in the steering on my TT02. It doesn't seem to want to go straight. What things should I be looking at?
I had the same problem on mine, and it took me half aday to figure it out, that it was not the servo, but the crappy servo saver. You always had to retrim the steering after 3-4 laps, horrible to drive. As we are not allowed to use better servo savers or direct links in our class, I simply took a TT01 saver and the steering lever arm. Problem was fixed. You have to adjust the End points new, but the TT01 saver is from far better quality. Maybe Tamiya has to fix the tolerances on the new one.:tire: Also I was told adding shims to take out slop is something I should do. What should I use for shims? Do you guys just use small, thin washers or something? Br, Matthias |
Hi guys I have a problem with my TT02B. I know this thread is just for the TT02 but bear with me because they have the exact same running gear. Ok so the bevel gear which connects the driveshaft to the diff has been stripped, not the teeth, but the inside of the bevel gear which gets the power from the driveshaft.:cry: I am running the exact same setup as my TT02 touring car, 5.5T brushless 6000kv w/ 60A esc.:nod: With this setup I have had zero problems on my touring TT02 but the power may be too great for the TT02B.
For those who don't know the TT02B is an offroad buggy, same chassis as the TT02 but with a completely different suspension system. So anyway I was wondering whether you guys know where to get a metal bevel gear so it won't get stripped out. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.:tire: |
so with the tt02 out now, is it ok to still get a tto1 or is it just stupid?
they are the same price on rcmart. |
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