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Originally Posted by Jay12341985
(Post 15180706)
I finaly got some run time last week. The vampire racing 17.5t is great! I geared at around 96/42 and ran at 1/4 timing on the motor and the car is exactly comparable to how it ran with the sport tuned running 68/22 when benchmarked against a few friends. For info 2 are running a hpi firebolt 15t which is actuqly comparable to the sport tuned the way we are running.
Question on my set up. I am.running super mini cva. Blue rear. Yellow front. I find thatvthe car is great but tlwhen it does let go the front hooks badly and i go tound in circles. Im running 2mm spacers in the cva's frontand rear to reduce droop but i still find adding a lot of preload to the rear to give me zero droop at the back gives me a very stable and planted rear end. I can take huge liberties going into conrners and its fine. Any thoughts on that. Should i just add more spacers to the rear to reduce rear droop further? Thanks |
Originally Posted by Jay12341985
(Post 15180706)
I finaly got some run time last week. The vampire racing 17.5t is great! I geared at around 96/42 and ran at 1/4 timing on the motor and the car is exactly comparable to how it ran with the sport tuned running 68/22 when benchmarked against a few friends. For info 2 are running a hpi firebolt 15t which is actuqly comparable to the sport tuned the way we are running.
Question on my set up. I am.running super mini cva. Blue rear. Yellow front. I find thatvthe car is great but tlwhen it does let go the front hooks badly and i go tound in circles. Im running 2mm spacers in the cva's frontand rear to reduce droop but i still find adding a lot of preload to the rear to give me zero droop at the back gives me a very stable and planted rear end. I can take huge liberties going into conrners and its fine. Any thoughts on that. Should i just add more spacers to the rear to reduce rear droop further? Thanks You are the second guy on this thread who is running the stiffer spring in the rear. I have always been of the thought that the stiffer springs should be in the front and softer in the rear (all full size cars do this). I am running Super Mini CVA's as well with 40wt oil and the blues up front and yellows in the rear on a unprepared tennis court with good results. I would guess if you took out a lot of the droop in the rear it is "forcing" the front to compress and work harder? Not sure. Cheers, Jim |
Originally Posted by 1101
(Post 15177108)
Which of the kits come with the Torque Tuned Motor ?
The motor specs are not helpfull, some sites say Torque Tuned , other sites say plain ol 540 motor. The local TT02 race class uses the Torque Tuned Motor as spec motor, so I really need to but the kit with that included, not a kit with the old standard silvercan |
Porsche bodies traditionally are not great track / racing bodies.. but I still love them..
At our track, we relaxed the rules for VTA and I’ve been running the 911 RSR body.. it actually handles really well... albeit it’s not on the TT02 chassis.... but it can be made to work.. The VTA tyres are a good option for it.. they have the right tyre height and width! |
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That's great!
What chassis are you using and how did you adapt it to the short wheelbase of the 911? Thanks, Ale |
I’m running the TB EVo 6. You can adjust the wheelbase by about 2 mm a piece using the front a rear suspension spacers to get to 253 wheel base.. and are left with rear wheels just slightly off centre.
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Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 15181320)
Porsche bodies traditionally are not great track / racing bodies.. but I still love them..
At our track, we relaxed the rules for VTA and I’ve been running the 911 RSR body.. it actually handles really well... albeit it’s not on the TT02 chassis.... but it can be made to work.. The VTA tyres are a good option for it.. they have the right tyre height and width! The rear +offset rims are nice and look the part (are these the Protoform 2765-04s?). For a scale period concourse entry only, you could combine these with the front kit supplied Fuchs (understood they wouldn't work for racing as per the VTA rules). |
Yes those are the protoform rear 31mm and they fill out the wheel arch nicely.
The suspension is standard width, only change was the spacers to move the arms forward in the rear 2 mm and front arms back 2 mm. That’s about as close you can get to 251. On the front I’m running a 6mm hex because the protoform fronts were touching the steering arms. The back has a 5 mm hex.. I could go 6 to fill out the arches but then would risk rubbing the arches.. and narrower rear works better at track. |
Ride height
Hi. On the tt02 type S are you guys running the box stock inner lower shock mount on the rear or the outer to match the front?
Im confused. everything i read about setup when applied leaves me with quite a bit of rake on my car. Going to the outer of the 2 lower rear shock mount holes sits the car flat. Thanks |
Originally Posted by Jay12341985
(Post 15187373)
Hi. On the tt02 type S are you guys running the box stock inner lower shock mount on the rear or the outer to match the front?
Im confused. everything i read about setup when applied leaves me with quite a bit of rake on my car. Going to the outer of the 2 lower rear shock mount holes sits the car flat. Thanks |
Originally Posted by Jay12341985
(Post 15187373)
Hi. On the tt02 type S are you guys running the box stock inner lower shock mount on the rear or the outer to match the front?
Im confused. everything i read about setup when applied leaves me with quite a bit of rake on my car. Going to the outer of the 2 lower rear shock mount holes sits the car flat. Thanks As per manual.. you have 2 holes on the lower rear arm. You use the outer hole. I’m not sure I know what you mean by rake. If you mean the arms are sagging relative to chassi and Toor chassis is almost dragging on the ground.. you adjust ride height by placing the plastic clips on top of shock spring |
Originally Posted by Raman
(Post 15187402)
I believe you mean on the suspension arms?
As per manual.. you have 2 holes on the lower rear arm. You use the outer hole. I’m not sure I know what you mean by rake. If you mean the arms are sagging relative to chassi and Toor chassis is almost dragging on the ground.. you adjust ride height by placing the plastic clips on top of shock spring Hi, no rake is the angle of the car relative to the ground, so I am raked to the front, ie the front is lower than the rear. and yes im talking about the mounting holes on the arms, so the type s reversible arms have 2 holes on one side and 3 on the other, The manual has you build with the outer hole (using the 2 hole side) on the front and inner hole on the rear. when I have mine set like that with equal length shocks then the car is higher at the rear. All the info I have read says to use 2-3mm internal spacers in the super mini CVAs which I have done but then i end up with either a high rear OR too much droop at the rear. So, by moving to the outer hole at the rear that seems to solve the issue, I just wanted to check if thats what everyone is doing or im missing something fundamental haha :-) Thanks for sticking with me lol |
I have a (1/10 1999 Subaru Impreza Monte-Carlo 4WD Rally TT-02 Kit (TAM58631) Don't know what the problem is, I have taken it apart and put it back together and it still makes this annoying noise. Check link for video. https://youtu.be/-wzrJChtS74
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I would first check the gear mesh between the motor pinion and the spur gear.Looks like they are to close together.
And when listining to tho the video,the sound is coming from the back of the car check if the motormount is using the correct holes,look in manual . And buy ball bearings,those sleeve bearings will slow the car down and also will cause way more wear on the drive train ect Also get rid of all the grease,that will only be a magnet for dust and dirt |
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