Corally Owners Club v1.*
10-31-2001, 09:23 AM
#301
Plus the PRO2 retains strength by having flexible front arms which can make it's handling inconsistant. The Corally's use brute strength to maintain durability with zero flex in the all too critical front suspension.
KingG- The word is, is that the 36'r last forever AND has great traction. When some tires start to fade after a dozen runs the 36's are just getting better. My 28r's work good but the wear is noticable- they look much like Yoke 138g would after a months use.
KingG- The word is, is that the 36'r last forever AND has great traction. When some tires start to fade after a dozen runs the 36's are just getting better. My 28r's work good but the wear is noticable- they look much like Yoke 138g would after a months use.
10-31-2001, 09:47 AM
#302
Tech Apprentice
Maski,
Like darkside said, that C4.1 seems to be a better machine than the regular C4. Darkside is a good driver and I know driving is the biggest part of a car, but once he got that C4.1 he looked a lot better. I'm not going to say much about the C4 AGLE because I haven't drove one but in my opinion you can see the difference in the two cars by how they perform. If you have the money, Spend the extra to the C4.1 but if you found a deal on the C4 then hell, go for it. It's dangerous to compare the Pro 2's durability with any car out there. The Pro 2 is like a brick, rock solid, lol!!! Keeps those wheels spinning Darkside.
Like darkside said, that C4.1 seems to be a better machine than the regular C4. Darkside is a good driver and I know driving is the biggest part of a car, but once he got that C4.1 he looked a lot better. I'm not going to say much about the C4 AGLE because I haven't drove one but in my opinion you can see the difference in the two cars by how they perform. If you have the money, Spend the extra to the C4.1 but if you found a deal on the C4 then hell, go for it. It's dangerous to compare the Pro 2's durability with any car out there. The Pro 2 is like a brick, rock solid, lol!!! Keeps those wheels spinning Darkside.
10-31-2001, 10:29 AM
#303
Tech Adept
thanks guys,
he might give it to me for 100USD w/o the shocks. we'll, the first thing i'm looking is its durability then its handling since i'm new to this hobby and need a car that can somewhat survive some minor crashes at the pipes in our race tracks!
i'm may not get the conversion kit since i still need to figure out how to drive maybe after i start to make it at A mains and have enough money.
some more info, other than included in the C4.1 conversion kit, all the parts can still be used in the C4? what i mean is, there is still parts support from corally? and also where can i find detailed pix of the corally or its review?
thanks a lot corally owners hoping to join all of u who has one
he might give it to me for 100USD w/o the shocks. we'll, the first thing i'm looking is its durability then its handling since i'm new to this hobby and need a car that can somewhat survive some minor crashes at the pipes in our race tracks!
i'm may not get the conversion kit since i still need to figure out how to drive maybe after i start to make it at A mains and have enough money.
some more info, other than included in the C4.1 conversion kit, all the parts can still be used in the C4? what i mean is, there is still parts support from corally? and also where can i find detailed pix of the corally or its review?
thanks a lot corally owners hoping to join all of u who has one
10-31-2001, 11:51 AM
#304
Maski: Corally still supports all versions of the C4. Just go to www.corallyusa.com and you can find all you need for the car. I don't know if they have any large pics of the C4 there.
All the reviews for the original car happened a while ago, since the original came out a long time ago.
HPI-1: the wheels are always spinning!..........I just need some carpet to put them on!
They need to hurry up and get that carpet so we can run.
All the reviews for the original car happened a while ago, since the original came out a long time ago.
HPI-1: the wheels are always spinning!..........I just need some carpet to put them on!
They need to hurry up and get that carpet so we can run.
10-31-2001, 12:13 PM
#305
Tech Apprentice
Good Deal Maski,
No shocks, I hear that there shock feature is one of the best in the business. $100 is ok for a used car. Yeah, you can always hop up later. Learn to drive and you will be fine. I t seems like anytime one doesn't make the A-mains that its a bad outing unless our cars are running good. Then there are probably other varibles. Darkside, did you ever get to run a mod. in your AGLE?
No shocks, I hear that there shock feature is one of the best in the business. $100 is ok for a used car. Yeah, you can always hop up later. Learn to drive and you will be fine. I t seems like anytime one doesn't make the A-mains that its a bad outing unless our cars are running good. Then there are probably other varibles. Darkside, did you ever get to run a mod. in your AGLE?
11-01-2001, 01:37 PM
#307
Man, I had always heard people talking about how heavy the C4.1 is. But after taking a better look at Car Actions little shoot out, I see that the C4.1 is about in the middle of the pack. Its not the lightest, but its far from the heaviest.
Heck even the Losi XXX-S is heavier than the C4.1 is. Add to that the fact that the C4.1 doesn't break like some of the cars that weigh a little less, and I think the car is pretty much right where it should be in the weight department.
Heck even the Losi XXX-S is heavier than the C4.1 is. Add to that the fact that the C4.1 doesn't break like some of the cars that weigh a little less, and I think the car is pretty much right where it should be in the weight department.
11-01-2001, 02:23 PM
#308
By simply replacing the standard hingepins with the lightweight items, and running my car on S.M.H cells, it weighs in around 1520g with new rubber tyres...and a body shell pretty heavy on paint and fibre tape inside the nose area..
one way to make the car feather lite is to replace the heavy duty pivot balls with the lightweight items, this not only reduces the overall weight by a huge amount, but more importantly the unsprung weight of the suspension arms!
one way to make the car feather lite is to replace the heavy duty pivot balls with the lightweight items, this not only reduces the overall weight by a huge amount, but more importantly the unsprung weight of the suspension arms!
11-02-2001, 02:43 PM
#310
Tech Adept
darkside>
where did u find those shoot-out of touring cars, what issue of rccaraction? thnx
where did u find those shoot-out of touring cars, what issue of rccaraction? thnx
11-02-2001, 06:00 PM
#312
GUYS! I need your help! I was rebuilding the diff on my AGLE when i began tightening the diff assembly when the I got stupid and tighten the diff bolt so hard that it broke!
Is this bolt a Corally specific part? I see the bolts on CorallyUSA.com and i think im going to order them. They are three bucks for a pair. If anyone has a spare, I'll be happy to send them a buck or two for them. If not, please suggest some alternatives, I'm probably going to have to order it though...
Is this bolt a Corally specific part? I see the bolts on CorallyUSA.com and i think im going to order them. They are three bucks for a pair. If anyone has a spare, I'll be happy to send them a buck or two for them. If not, please suggest some alternatives, I'm probably going to have to order it though...
11-02-2001, 06:48 PM
#313
Porkybmx: you probably going to have to go ahead and order it.
If it makes you feel any better, that price of 3 bucks a pair is pretty good. Thats about what I used to pay for the same type parts on my Yokomo. So at least you know your paying a normal price for them.
If it makes you feel any better, that price of 3 bucks a pair is pretty good. Thats about what I used to pay for the same type parts on my Yokomo. So at least you know your paying a normal price for them.
11-02-2001, 06:59 PM
#314
Darkside: Hey can you suggest a good final ratio for a stock motor on a long flowing track? (p2k)
11-02-2001, 07:12 PM
#315
Well let me tell you ahead of time that I'm not all that conventional in the gearing department. I usually get comments like "how the heck can you run that ratio" or "how can you not fry your motor running that ratio"
but I'll tell you what I do anyway and you can see if you want to take it or leave it.
First off on a long flowing track I usually switch to my Fantom MVP. But since your using the P2K. Here goes. These are my conservative ratios.
With the P2K, torque isn't a problem, so I go low with the ratio. Usually somewhere between 5.8-6.0! When its cool outside I may even go as low as 5.6-5.7, but not when the weather is even remotely hot!
For the long flowing layout, maybe try the 5.8 ratio, then check your motor temp after a full race. If its not too hot, then try 5.7.
Good luck.
but I'll tell you what I do anyway and you can see if you want to take it or leave it.
First off on a long flowing track I usually switch to my Fantom MVP. But since your using the P2K. Here goes. These are my conservative ratios.
With the P2K, torque isn't a problem, so I go low with the ratio. Usually somewhere between 5.8-6.0! When its cool outside I may even go as low as 5.6-5.7, but not when the weather is even remotely hot!
For the long flowing layout, maybe try the 5.8 ratio, then check your motor temp after a full race. If its not too hot, then try 5.7.
Good luck.
Last edited by Darkseid; 11-02-2001 at 07:17 PM.