TeamGoodwrench

iTrader: (4)

If anyone is looking for a MINT TA05-R, I have one for sale in the R/C items for sale/trade section.

Accepting any reasonable offer on it.

Thx

guinnes.s

yea im interest to know as well if there is a gear diff to fit the ta05ms.
any ideas?

Firefox

iTrader: (2)

Anyone know what the "empty", no tires/wheels, no servo, no esc, no motor, no body, no battery, weight of the TA-05 ( any version ) is ? Grams, OZ, doesn't matter. With or without aluminum up grades.

thanks

monkee

iTrader: (15)

what droop would be appropriate for an indoor carpet track? fairly small track so a good amount of tight turns


i decided as a new onroad driver, i would probably do less damage to the car with stock plastic arms and chassis.
so here it is currently
(yes i have correct spur shaft on order)

C&B RC

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=monkee;8313673]what droop would be appropriate for an indoor carpet track? fairly small track so a good amount of tight turns
QUOTE]

I would start with 2mm over ride hieght to begin with and go from there.

monkee

iTrader: (15)

because i dont understand these ratios...
what pinion should i use with the stock 70t spur? running a 17.5novak

encore75

iTrader: (26)

IIRC, the stock tamiya spur is a 0.6 module spur, so you'll have a hard time finding appropriate pinions here in the U.S. (0.6 is a metric pitch that doesn't exactly mesh up to the more readily available 48p here.) You'll be much better off switching to a smallish 48p or 64p spur to get you to the ratio you need. For example, I have an 85T 64p spur on my TA-05R. The gear chart that Tamiya provides was better suited for when the car came out and brushed 23-27T motors were the norm.



Assuming you're running in a no-boost class, you'll generally want an FDR around 3.5 or so for the Novak 17.5 motors. I currently have a 53T pinion with my 85T spur to give me an FDR of 3.61. (Yes, I have an LRP 17.5 in the pic, but actually have a Ballistic 17.5 in there now.)

If running with boost, you'll generally go with a FDR around 5-ish, or even higher, depending on your ESC & software.

monkee

iTrader: (15)

So this will fit fine in a stock ta05 chassis?
and will be good for a 17.5 novak havok?

will i need to change anything to have that fit?
thats a very large pinion!

Robinson Racing 64P Super Machined Spur Gear (85T)

Robinson Racing "Aluminum Pro" 64P Pinion (53T)

encore75

iTrader: (26)

Yup...fits just fine. It's what I have in mine now...well, a different brand spur (I believe), but it should be the same size. I've even put a 56T in there before.



Obviously, it wont fit through the hole in the motor mount, so you'll have to feed the motor through first then install the pinion. You'll also have to push the belts up & down to feed the pinion in, kinda like a boxer going through the ropes of the fighting ring.

Rodrigo360

iTrader: (-1)

This is my TA05, on 540 SilverCan class. Other cars: Xray T2 (red), AE TC5R (Yellow), all car are carbonfiber chassis. My TA05 is stock with only aluminium diff join cups.

+ YouTube Video

TubOLard

iTrader: (-2)

Hi. I searched through the thread, but couldn't get a detailed answer. How do I compensate for the chassis tweak in my setup? The tub is twisted pretty badly, so I dont know what to do. Thanks!

encore75

iTrader: (26)

Set it up as if it were a flat chassis, then drive with your head cocked to the side.

Just kidding...but if you've read through here, you'd have seen that just about every TA05 tub tends to have some tweak in it. When you lift the car to check tweak, add pre-load to the tire that came up first and take some off the tire that came up later. If it's too bad, then look into investing in a new chassis...the lightweight carbon one tends to be better (less tweak) than the stock plastic one, or you can look into some of the conversion kits like 3Racing's.

TubOLard

iTrader: (-2)

Ive checked many tubs, new and used, with more or less the same amount of tweak. What bothers me is, there is front to rear, side to side, diagonal tweak.. I tried setting up the chassis in conventional fashion, but the car feels unpredictable at times and with the tub mangled like that, regular setups cant be effective. I'm only asking because there seem to be a good number of people with decent success on this chassis.

encore75

iTrader: (26)

Exactly...most people just set up the car the best they can with what they have and go out and drive it. It tends to do fairly well even with a little bit of tweak.

But again, if it's a really bad warp or you really can't get your mind past it, look into getting a new chassis such as the lightweight carbon reinforced one.

daign

iTrader: (1)

Someone wanna help me with some tools/alignment specs on my TA05.

+ YouTube Video

Turning the steering rate down helped a LOT. I need camber/toe adjustments and what hopups I'll need running 5.5t brushless and lipo.

Already had the left rear arm popout of the chassis. What is the aluminum hopup I need to hold the arm rods in.

edit:

Is this it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-51065-TRF...item1e5ff4a5af