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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan

Old 11-16-2010, 04:16 PM
  #11071  
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If anyone is looking for a MINT TA05-R, I have one for sale in the R/C items for sale/trade section.

Accepting any reasonable offer on it.

Thx
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:54 PM
  #11072  
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Originally Posted by kowkl View Post
Hi Guy,

Anyone here have tried using Gear diff for their car. I'm referring to the one manufacture for the photon car. It looks small but not sure if it could fit.

Tried to upload the pic but fail.
yea im interest to know as well if there is a gear diff to fit the ta05ms.
any ideas?
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:23 AM
  #11073  
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Anyone know what the "empty", no tires/wheels, no servo, no esc, no motor, no body, no battery, weight of the TA-05 ( any version ) is ? Grams, OZ, doesn't matter. With or without aluminum up grades.

thanks
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Old 12-08-2010, 02:55 AM
  #11074  
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what droop would be appropriate for an indoor carpet track? fairly small track so a good amount of tight turns


i decided as a new onroad driver, i would probably do less damage to the car with stock plastic arms and chassis.
so here it is currently
(yes i have correct spur shaft on order)
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:50 AM
  #11075  
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[QUOTE=monkee;8313673]what droop would be appropriate for an indoor carpet track? fairly small track so a good amount of tight turns
QUOTE]

I would start with 2mm over ride hieght to begin with and go from there.
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:28 AM
  #11076  
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because i dont understand these ratios...
what pinion should i use with the stock 70t spur? running a 17.5novak

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Old 12-20-2010, 12:42 PM
  #11077  
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Originally Posted by monkee View Post
because i dont understand these ratios...
what pinion should i use with the stock 70t spur? running a 17.5novak
IIRC, the stock tamiya spur is a 0.6 module spur, so you'll have a hard time finding appropriate pinions here in the U.S. (0.6 is a metric pitch that doesn't exactly mesh up to the more readily available 48p here.) You'll be much better off switching to a smallish 48p or 64p spur to get you to the ratio you need. For example, I have an 85T 64p spur on my TA-05R. The gear chart that Tamiya provides was better suited for when the car came out and brushed 23-27T motors were the norm.



Assuming you're running in a no-boost class, you'll generally want an FDR around 3.5 or so for the Novak 17.5 motors. I currently have a 53T pinion with my 85T spur to give me an FDR of 3.61. (Yes, I have an LRP 17.5 in the pic, but actually have a Ballistic 17.5 in there now.)

If running with boost, you'll generally go with a FDR around 5-ish, or even higher, depending on your ESC & software.
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Old 12-20-2010, 02:06 PM
  #11078  
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So this will fit fine in a stock ta05 chassis?
and will be good for a 17.5 novak havok?

will i need to change anything to have that fit?
thats a very large pinion!

Robinson Racing 64P Super Machined Spur Gear (85T)

Robinson Racing "Aluminum Pro" 64P Pinion (53T)
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Old 12-21-2010, 01:18 AM
  #11079  
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Originally Posted by monkee View Post
So this will fit fine in a stock ta05 chassis?
and will be good for a 17.5 novak havok?

will i need to change anything to have that fit?
thats a very large pinion!

Robinson Racing 64P Super Machined Spur Gear (85T)

Robinson Racing "Aluminum Pro" 64P Pinion (53T)
Yup...fits just fine. It's what I have in mine now...well, a different brand spur (I believe), but it should be the same size. I've even put a 56T in there before.



Obviously, it wont fit through the hole in the motor mount, so you'll have to feed the motor through first then install the pinion. You'll also have to push the belts up & down to feed the pinion in, kinda like a boxer going through the ropes of the fighting ring.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:09 AM
  #11080  
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Originally Posted by strong View Post
Think I will break the car down saturday morning when I have plenty of time and check everything over thoroughly..........This car really has been running very good up till now........I must admit......I really didn't expect this much from this car.......For a low budget car I give the TA05 and A+.......Really I could just be lucky but the other cars(TC5....Xrays..ect)seem to break to easy when we do open class balls to the wall racing.......But like I say I could just be lucky.
This is my TA05, on 540 SilverCan class. Other cars: Xray T2 (red), AE TC5R (Yellow), all car are carbonfiber chassis. My TA05 is stock with only aluminium diff join cups.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:44 PM
  #11081  
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Hi. I searched through the thread, but couldn't get a detailed answer. How do I compensate for the chassis tweak in my setup? The tub is twisted pretty badly, so I dont know what to do. Thanks!
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:39 PM
  #11082  
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Originally Posted by TubOLard View Post
Hi. I searched through the thread, but couldn't get a detailed answer. How do I compensate for the chassis tweak in my setup? The tub is twisted pretty badly, so I dont know what to do. Thanks!
Set it up as if it were a flat chassis, then drive with your head cocked to the side.

Just kidding...but if you've read through here, you'd have seen that just about every TA05 tub tends to have some tweak in it. When you lift the car to check tweak, add pre-load to the tire that came up first and take some off the tire that came up later. If it's too bad, then look into investing in a new chassis...the lightweight carbon one tends to be better (less tweak) than the stock plastic one, or you can look into some of the conversion kits like 3Racing's.
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Old 12-21-2010, 03:03 PM
  #11083  
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Ive checked many tubs, new and used, with more or less the same amount of tweak. What bothers me is, there is front to rear, side to side, diagonal tweak.. I tried setting up the chassis in conventional fashion, but the car feels unpredictable at times and with the tub mangled like that, regular setups cant be effective. I'm only asking because there seem to be a good number of people with decent success on this chassis.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:58 PM
  #11084  
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Originally Posted by TubOLard View Post
Ive checked many tubs, new and used, with more or less the same amount of tweak. What bothers me is, there is front to rear, side to side, diagonal tweak.. I tried setting up the chassis in conventional fashion, but the car feels unpredictable at times and with the tub mangled like that, regular setups cant be effective. I'm only asking because there seem to be a good number of people with decent success on this chassis.
Exactly...most people just set up the car the best they can with what they have and go out and drive it. It tends to do fairly well even with a little bit of tweak.

But again, if it's a really bad warp or you really can't get your mind past it, look into getting a new chassis such as the lightweight carbon reinforced one.
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Old 12-24-2010, 05:06 PM
  #11085  
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Someone wanna help me with some tools/alignment specs on my TA05.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Turning the steering rate down helped a LOT. I need camber/toe adjustments and what hopups I'll need running 5.5t brushless and lipo.

Already had the left rear arm popout of the chassis. What is the aluminum hopup I need to hold the arm rods in.

edit:

Is this it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-51065-TRF...item1e5ff4a5af


Last edited by daign; 12-24-2010 at 05:27 PM.
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