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Old 05-31-2006, 07:21 PM   #4201
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It looks like Tamiya says the spur holder is legal...


All Vehicles
1. Tamiya parts only. No parts from other manufactures unless specified here.

2. Any manufacturer’s electronic speed control, radio equipment, servo saver, antenna, antenna mount, pinion and spur gears, spur gear adapter, ball bearing, tire inserts are allowed in all classes.

Rules 1 & 2 kinda conflict but clarify. The spur holder looks legal to me...--Al
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Old 05-31-2006, 08:49 PM   #4202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey
You can download an RC gear calculator from here which also might help

http://waits.net/public/rcgears/

Big help...tnx a lot for the link greaseMonkey
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Old 05-31-2006, 09:28 PM   #4203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racenut
It was my gears bro, (overgear). I will use silver can motor this saturday with the same spur and pinion. err......FASTER??
If you'll be running 6.5 for your silver can like you did for your 23 turns, it will be slower. A mo3 would outrun that gearing.
People already tested gearing ratios for motors and it serves as a guideline. Its not made up. So when people use 5.0-5.5 for silver cans, it really is a good starting point.
As for the tracks we run in, people run 5.8-6.2 for 23turns. I've been running an old type S for two years at 6.0 and its not overgeared nor undergeared. I'll run my type rz geared at 105/37,39 saturday afternoon if you're still there.
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Old 05-31-2006, 10:03 PM   #4204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayman
If you'll be running 6.5 for your silver can like you did for your 23 turns, it will be slower. A mo3 would outrun that gearing.
People already tested gearing ratios for motors and it serves as a guideline. Its not made up. So when people use 5.0-5.5 for silver cans, it really is a good starting point.
As for the tracks we run in, people run 5.8-6.2 for 23turns. I've been running an old type S for two years at 6.0 and its not overgeared nor undergeared. I'll run my type rz geared at 105/37,39 saturday afternoon if you're still there.
Well, i think i have to change my stock spur gear. For a meantime stock motor to stock spur will do... Tnx for the tips Rayman... see you this sat..
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Old 06-01-2006, 12:08 AM   #4205
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Hey guys, what is the starting point for setup on rubber tires....I know most of these new cars just have a "sweet spot" in terms of setup (setup aspects that everyone, always runs) What are these for the TA05 with the original suspension on rubber tires? (give me some good setups guys, i wanna stick it to the XRay/Corally camps) Running on medium traction asphalt with RP30's

Does setup compare from other cars with the original suspension to the '05? (ie: TRF414, EvoIII, TA04, TRF415?)
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Old 06-01-2006, 12:21 AM   #4206
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Hi quick gearing question what would be the gearing for a 100 tooth 64-pitch spur? I',m runnig a four star reedy neo
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Old 06-01-2006, 05:24 AM   #4207
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I'd say try yellow springs front/rear 40/30 oil front/rear -1.5 camber and your in the ballpark. I start with about 2mm droop over ride height in the front and about 3-4mm in the rear. RP30s should work great. Everything else run as per the instruction manual.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackKat
Hey guys, what is the starting point for setup on rubber tires....I know most of these new cars just have a "sweet spot" in terms of setup (setup aspects that everyone, always runs) What are these for the TA05 with the original suspension on rubber tires? (give me some good setups guys, i wanna stick it to the XRay/Corally camps) Running on medium traction asphalt with RP30's

Does setup compare from other cars with the original suspension to the '05? (ie: TRF414, EvoIII, TA04, TRF415?)
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:37 AM   #4208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CIVIC91
I'd say try yellow springs front/rear 40/30 oil front/rear -1.5 camber and your in the ballpark. I start with about 2mm droop over ride height in the front and about 3-4mm in the rear. RP30s should work great. Everything else run as per the instruction manual.


I would say that is too much camber , if you want to use all of the tire you need to back it off to .5 camber. The camber gain on the car will take care of the rest.
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:54 AM   #4209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slotmachine
I would say that is too much camber , if you want to use all of the tire you need to back it off to .5 camber. The camber gain on the car will take care of the rest.
Agree, usually -1 deg camber has been best.
If I were running -1.5 it would have been on my EVOIII. . .
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Old 06-01-2006, 09:50 AM   #4210
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I've always heard that -1.5 was a good point to run. -.5 camber seems like way too little when running on rubber tires.

I've always used -1.5......-1 at the least, and my contact pattern always runs right down the center of the tire.

Besides that, with the 'not so high quality' bearings that the TA05 comes with, the play in the wheels would quickly take it from being -.5 camber to having positive camber in the turns.

-.5 seems like WAY too little for any car, especially for this one with the extra play the axles have.

But I guess this is one of those 'what ever works for you' things.
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Old 06-01-2006, 10:39 AM   #4211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
I've always heard that -1.5 was a good point to run. -.5 camber seems like way too little when running on rubber tires.

I've always used -1.5......-1 at the least, and my contact pattern always runs right down the center of the tire.

Besides that, with the 'not so high quality' bearings that the TA05 comes with, the play in the wheels would quickly take it from being -.5 camber to having positive camber in the turns.

-.5 seems like WAY too little for any car, especially for this one with the extra play the axles have.

But I guess this is one of those 'what ever works for you' things.
I always shim my axles with the CRC shims to take all the slop away. When you run 1.5 camber you end up rolling the inside edge of the tire under and it will slice thru after time.
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Old 06-01-2006, 10:42 AM   #4212
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I got yellows on the car right now. I built my shocks with the #400 stuff that came with the kit but I can change that no prob.

.5 does sound a bit on the low side for camber....But you have to be open minded to trying things out. Will looking at setups from other Tamiya cars with the same suspension help me at all?
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Old 06-01-2006, 11:18 AM   #4213
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I have used at least -1.5 on my TA05 SINCE DAY 1. The bearings are not great tollerence wise and allow play within the bearing. I'm not talking about play in the suspension. This allows at the very least .5 degree variance in the camber...hence running -1.5. Believe me, if you run -.5 on asphalt with rubber tires, I can almost bet your rim is touching the ground during cornering.

When I ran on foams with a stiff setup, you still needed that much camber to keep the tires from coning.

And with running -1.5 camber my wear patch is dead center not on the inside edge. Shimming the suspension helsp, but can't take the play out of the bearings.
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Old 06-01-2006, 05:39 PM   #4214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CIVIC91
I have used at least -1.5 on my TA05 SINCE DAY 1. The bearings are not great tollerence wise and allow play within the bearing. I'm not talking about play in the suspension. This allows at the very least .5 degree variance in the camber...hence running -1.5. Believe me, if you run -.5 on asphalt with rubber tires, I can almost bet your rim is touching the ground during cornering.

When I ran on foams with a stiff setup, you still needed that much camber to keep the tires from coning.

And with running -1.5 camber my wear patch is dead center not on the inside edge. Shimming the suspension helsp, but can't take the play out of the bearings.
Sorry for my ignorance but how do you shim the suspension?? Does it effect handling??
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Old 06-01-2006, 05:51 PM   #4215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CIVIC91
I have used at least -1.5 on my TA05 SINCE DAY 1. The bearings are not great tollerence wise and allow play within the bearing. I'm not talking about play in the suspension. This allows at the very least .5 degree variance in the camber...hence running -1.5. Believe me, if you run -.5 on asphalt with rubber tires, I can almost bet your rim is touching the ground during cornering.

When I ran on foams with a stiff setup, you still needed that much camber to keep the tires from coning.

And with running -1.5 camber my wear patch is dead center not on the inside edge. Shimming the suspension helps, but can't take the play out of the bearings.
Yes I am talking about shimming the bearings in the hubs. When I build my suspension , I sand each part to fit tightly but not too tight. The areas where the hubs fit into the arms are most important.
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