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Old 11-25-2005, 11:43 AM
  #2086  
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Tom,

I had the exact same, very frustrating, issue. A little bit of pressure on the nut-side should be sufficient to get the screw to bite. Because I had some issues with the nut loosening, I acutally ended up flipping the nut upside down in the little plastic mount, just to get the nyloc part to grip first.

Good luck,
dave.

Originally Posted by mild seven
i have a problem with building the Diff for the 05. basically it seems like the long screw that goes through the diff is to short and does not quite reach the lock nut. im pretty sure ive built the rest fine as ive built Tamiya diffs alot and they are pretty much the same.
Just wondering if anyone has had this problem or has a solution to it.

Thanks Tom
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Old 11-25-2005, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by madjack
alright...alright, here you go

Nice car, BTW what kind of susp. block did you use? I mean what letters?
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Old 11-25-2005, 03:30 PM
  #2088  
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Originally Posted by cheehtae
Nice car, BTW what kind of susp. block did you use? I mean what letters?
I'm running the following blocks:

front blocks 1X/1XD (f/r)

rear blocks 1XC/1B (f/r)
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Old 11-25-2005, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by madjack
I'm running the following blocks:

front blocks 1X/1XD (f/r)

rear blocks 1XC/1B (f/r)

don't know much about this blocks, will they increase toe? or are they the same as the stock ones just more BLING?

Tnx
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:21 PM
  #2090  
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Originally Posted by cheehtae
don't know much about this blocks, will they increase toe? or are they the same as the stock ones just more BLING?

Tnx
yes, using a different combination of blocks in the front (toe out) and the rear (toe in) will yield different toe angles. they are more durable than the plastic ones. the aluminum blocks are stronger and probably weighs about the same.

with madjack's setting he has 2 degrees of front toe out and 2.5 deg of rear toe in (plus the built in toe for his rear uprights (probably using 0 deg hubs though.)

madjack's block set up is based on satoshi's set up in the RCWorld mag.
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Hebiki
yes, using a different combination of blocks in the front (toe out) and the rear (toe in) will yield different toe angles. they are more durable than the plastic ones. the aluminum blocks are stronger and probably weighs about the same.

with madjack's setting he has 2 degrees of front toe out and 2.5 deg of rear toe in (plus the built in toe for his rear uprights (probably using 0 deg hubs though.)

madjack's block set up is based on satoshi's set up in the RCWorld mag.
Is there anywhere you can reference which each block is? Like Losi they will say 1 degree or 2 or so on. Is there some where that tells what each of the blocks are so you know which ones to use?
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:28 PM
  #2092  
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Originally Posted by Hebiki
madjack's block set up is based on satoshi's set up in the RCWorld mag.
I had always wondered about that setting ! ...What if those blocks were what Mr Satoshi had with him at that moment and he threw them into the 05 and worked from there ! ....Without proper translation of the Japaness, there is alot lost from the Mag ....and we took it as bible !
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:31 PM
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I would like to know the degree setting for all of the blocks. I just got me a 415 and now I have TA05 order from my lhs but I would like to get some different blocks to use but have no idea on which ones to get
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:46 PM
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Here is a link to Tryhard's site. Look under the excel sheets, he has one with all the block widths and the combinations. TryHard's site
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Old 11-25-2005, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dway100
Here is a link to Tryhard's site. Look under the excel sheets, he has one with all the block widths and the combinations. TryHard's site
I don't have excel on my cpu so it won't let me open the pages. Is there anything I can do to open the page??????????/
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Old 11-26-2005, 01:26 AM
  #2096  
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Default 46mm Universal Problems

I just try putting my 46mm universals on in the rear and I have
ran into a slight lil prob. if you see the picture up here that I included
,you can see the axle doesn't come out far enough so that I can
stick the pin through the hole on the axle...
And I'm pretty much running stock everything, so can some please help me.

Also what size are those blue turnbuckles everyone is using for the upper
suspension arms that replace the 3 x 28 on TA-05?
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-ta46mmaxe.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-rearshot.jpg  

Last edited by Key500; 11-26-2005 at 01:54 AM.
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Old 11-26-2005, 05:52 AM
  #2097  
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Did you use the wrong wheel axle?
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Old 11-26-2005, 08:09 AM
  #2098  
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Can't quite tell form the pics but it looks like you have the LW outer axle shaft in the STD suspension hub. The easy way to tell is the LW has a rounded carrier for the CVD whereas the the STD axle has a more squared off profile.
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Old 11-26-2005, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Difuser
Can't quite tell form the pics but it looks like you have the LW outer axle shaft in the STD suspension hub. The easy way to tell is the LW has a rounded carrier for the CVD whereas the the STD axle has a more squared off profile.
I second that, looks like you've been wrongly directed. To use the 46mm bones in the standard suspension (not the LW) you'll need to get the normal axles ref 53499. The bones you have will fit in them no problem.
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Old 11-26-2005, 10:18 AM
  #2100  
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Does anybody know were i can get the TRF blue shock set pictured above and also the blue screw kit, Part no's please...... Cheer's boy's
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