valk

iTrader: (13)

I forgot about the hexes i got those too. But buying all he stuff on that list makes and r1 pretty appealing no? $150 was he max i was willing to sink into an s1 even when i got it for $89. Spares were part of that $150.
More than that, might as well buy an r1.

valk

iTrader: (13)

I forgot about the hexes i got those too. But buying all he stuff on that list makes and r1 pretty appealing no? $150 was he max i was willing to sink into an s1 even when i got it for $89. Spares were part of that $150.
More than that, might as well buy an r1.

Italboy

alu hexes, which width would you recommend?
5, 6 or 7mm?

valk

iTrader: (13)

Honestly all you NEED is aluminum hexes. Swaybars help but not always used.
Tamiya ballcups nice to have and needed for steering. Not so much for camber links.
The steerig isnt too bad you just need to shim it and maybe use some orings. Before i got tamiya ballcups all i had to do was put orings on the balls to take up the slack in it all.
Tamiya is much better but i still have one or teo orings in there to keep the rack from flatig around at neutral.

$150 was my limit for the s1. That included all my spares and the upgrades. More than that and an r1 is a much better place to start. I like my s1 but id use it for parts of an r1 if i was buying all that stuff.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Honestly all you NEED is aluminum hexes. Swaybars help but not always used.
Tamiya ballcups nice to have and needed for steering. Not so much for camber links.
The steerig isnt too bad you just need to shim it and maybe use some orings. Before i got tamiya ballcups all i had to do was put orings on the balls to take up the slack in it all.
Tamiya is much better but i still have one or teo orings in there to keep the rack from flatig around at neutral.

$150 was my limit for the s1. That included all my spares and the upgrades. More than that and an r1 is a much better place to start. I like my s1 but id use it for parts of an r1 if i was buying all that stuff.

lawton70

This is the exact list of upgrades I put on my S1.
the driveshafts I used were 3Racing from Rcmart
rcmart.com/3racing-t301-driveshaft-p-36126.html?cPath=595_1077_442

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

I like how this was phrased... 'Good to have'

None are 'must haves'

valk

iTrader: (13)

Holy crap. Sorry about that lol. Iphone fail.

mrjudd77

The DJC's are only needed if you run a spool. Chatter is a non issue with a gear diff in the front.

lawton70

Stock hexes are 4mm. If you race VTA I've heard you need to run the 6mm hexes on the front to clear the linkages.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Yeah, 6mm are still VERY close to where the links attach, I think 4mm would rub for sure.

Italboy

Last question from my side.
Shall I rather take the S1 than the XI Sport?
Parts availability is no problem for both cars.

mrjudd77

S1!
I run a 6mm hex with a 1mm spacer to clear the Contact foam tyres that I run here. They rub on the lower control arms. I also run 6+1mm on the rear to keep the track width level

OldfartWal

iTrader: (2)

Funny, I run the same tyres on my R1, no spacers in the front hubs, if I run the rear shocks on the outside most mount, then I need 2 spacers on each side, none if I run the shocks upright on the inner mount location, but I've left the spacers in as it gives me a rear track that's right on the limit.

The must be a slight difference between the R1 & S1 in the front end.



@Italboy, just buy the R1, if you want to run with the more expensive cars then you should be able for a fraction of the cost, (sorry S1 drivers), the R1 is near enough a exact identical car to the X-Ray.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Some good info here. I have one more question. I'm going to upgrade to R1 alu suspension mounts but have noticed that the part number for the pivot balls to mount the pivot pin into the lower arm is different for the R1 and S1 is different but they look the same on the manual. Does anyone know if the there is a difference ?
Thanks