Spec-R R1

Old 08-27-2013, 10:04 AM
  #1861  
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*cancelled*doubled post*

Last edited by jack_lee; 08-27-2013 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:31 PM
  #1862  
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Shims make worlds of difference my god
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:09 PM
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I recommend anyone building a new car no matter what model to get a set of fine adjustment shims. i have used kyosho but see that tq has 3racing
3RAC-SW03 3RAC-SW04 3RAC-SW05.

then you have very fine adjustment if the layshaft, the steering rack, steering bushings and the hingepins.
god the hingpins were tight on this bitch lol. they would NOT free float built per the manual and i had to break out the 12r5 shims so now im out lol.

also shimmed the servo forward a good 5mm and the arm is now within a few degrees of parallel. i could move it more forward but these are the serpent servo mounts. the specr mono mount might be a little better.

id say shimming the steering posts with 5mm shims has helped. i put a .2 under and .1 above.. when i get more ill probably tighten these up more as the play seems to be the inner bearing race thats floating around. id say thrust bearings would be a better designif i was to do a steering rack to take all the play out of that. my serpent isnt any better in this respect.

after cleaning the bearings, im VERY pleased with how free the drive train is. low friction belts would be my addition when the belts finally go out.

fiddling with roll center settings i have noticed the inner holes to bind up the belt tention adjusters if you use the long studs and dont have liek 4mm of shims on them. just switched the long studs outboard and ill do my rollcenter adjustment in the rear from the hub position i think.

sucks to not have a perm facility cause i really do want to test this car more and more before the season ends. dont wanna lose interest in it and just pass it along. lots of cars out there id like to try but was hoping to find somthing inexpensive for stock.. id like to just have fun with stock, and focus on mod competition.
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:37 PM
  #1864  
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if you move the servo or arm forward youll get a good angle when the servo is in neutral position, but a very strange angle when you turn the wheel
with the floating servopost and savox 1251 servo i have moved my servo 2mm forward, the steering rod is at a perfect angle when steering is at full lock l/r
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Old 08-28-2013, 02:47 PM
  #1865  
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I had that same issue with the 4mm balls hitting the diff adjuster, I sanded down the top of the adjuster just enough to clear the ball stud and its worked great. One issue I had, don't know if others have had this, but found that all the alum. ball studs in the bulkheads had bent due to how soft the aluminum was. This was in the R1 and just from normal running not a lot of crashing. Swapped them all out to the steel ballstuds and have not had that issue again as of yet. Could not figure out for the longest why my setups seemed to change throughout a race day then found a ball stud bent, checked them all and all of them was bent. So you might want to give those a look see just to be on the safe side.
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:01 PM
  #1866  
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Guess i wont get the aluminum ones for the swaybar kit then lol.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:45 PM
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speed passion system came in today so ive build this car with a savox servo and turnigy battery for like $350. pretty good.

also coming in the mail is a swaybar set and all the bits needed for that. couldnt get the spec r stoppers, so i got top ones instead. hopefully they fit without modification to the bar holders but if so its not a big deal. also a bunch of 3racing/tamiya shims.
should be good to race this car in stock for a good long time. just need to figure out how to get brakes in the speed passion without buying the programmer box lol.

had a little play on the steet and it STILL has a ton of steering wobble. might just be bad ass bumpsteer but we will have to see.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
had a little play on the steet and it STILL has a ton of steering wobble. might just be bad ass bumpsteer but we will have to see.
You should be able to diagnose the steering wobble on your bench, have you done that? I basically isolate the different parts of the steering mechanism and linkage by holding them still and seeing what wobble upstream of them. On my R1 the bell crank assembly is a big culprit, but shimming the ball bearings helps a bit. Ball cups add to the play, as can the arms and hub carriers. Just check them out carefully.
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:57 PM
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its a combination of the steering post bearings being loose on their races allowing movment along multiple axis and slop in the ballcups. i might try some different ballcups but ill have to deal with it for now. i might get into the team magic ballcups, or xray. those fit absolutely perfectly and there is no slop, but still smooth.
bearings though... lots of wiggle in them and how they are pressed in.

ps, some orings on the ballcups seem to help a lot too.
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:20 AM
  #1870  
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Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
trying to make the s1 car softer might be hard, i went nuts on my s1 chassi, its still stiff! the glassfibre used is crap.. only thing i can imagine that would make it softer in a good way is to mill it down in thickness



if you want to make the car softer then the new cf chassis will make a big difference, i have the option 2.25mm chassi on my car now, center motormount and new topdeck is on its way now too. new carbon chassis is totally different than the first ones that were released in terms of carbon, flex and feel
will post a pic of my car when i got all new bits installed
Originally Posted by valk View Post
I might a do the drillout thing. Ir i could mill the material down ob cnc at work but planning fiberboards tends to create a tweak.
Trying to stay away from carbon fiber. If i go that route i might as well have just paid $279 for an r1.
Originally Posted by Bappe View Post
mill it down if you have the chance.. my s1 chassi is badly tweaked after all drilling
but i think that its more worth buying carbon parts, after all, they are quite inexpensive from spec r, the s1 glassfibre is way stiffer than the newer usa grade carbon
Milling down the fiberglass will expose the glass fibers and will weaken the material in some places on the chassis, thus giving different flex characteristics all over the place resulting in tweek. The only real option is to either cnc or dremel out a new chassis from 2.25mm fiberglass or carbon sheet, or buy the 2.25mm carbon chassis and narrow top deck from Spec-R.
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by valk View Post


speed passion system came in today so ive build this car with a savox servo and turnigy battery for like $350. pretty good.

should be good to race this car in stock for a good long time. just need to figure out how to get brakes in the speed passion without buying the programmer box lol.
Have you run your S1 with the SP motor yet? Does the motor handle feel like a reedy sonic, gen2 Tekin, D3.5, etc. cause I'm in the market for a new 17.5 with endbell motor timing
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:22 PM
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Havent raced the sp yet. Not til next week. Guy qualified second with this motor on a tekin rs. I qualified third with orca vx/tx combo. In blinky there would t ve a huge difference in laps as the guy who won was carrying a lot more corner speed.

This system replaces a tekin rs and reedy 17.5 that was fast. Te tekin rs was too soft for my liking and the orcas murdered me between corners but laptimes were within a quarter second.
I have a redline gen 2 17.5 which work pretty good. Has plenty of rip up top. I dont think you can really make a bad decisision just dont get a 3.5. They wont be allowed when the d4 comes out.

The speed passion i have only goes up to 10 degrees on the endbell. Who knows how much is already in there. Ill just gear it up more if i have to. Ill save my orca tx for bigger competitions.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
Havent raced the sp yet. Not til next week. Guy qualified second with this motor on a tekin rs. I qualified third with orca vx/tx combo. In blinky there would t ve a huge difference in laps as the guy who won was carrying a lot more corner speed.

This system replaces a tekin rs and reedy 17.5 that was fast. Te tekin rs was too soft for my liking and the orcas murdered me between corners but laptimes were within a quarter second.
I have a redline gen 2 17.5 which work pretty good. Has plenty of rip up top. I dont think you can really make a bad decisision just dont get a 3.5. They wont be allowed when the d4 comes out.

The speed passion i have only goes up to 10 degrees on the endbell. Who knows how much is already in there. Ill just gear it up more if i have to. Ill save my orca tx for bigger competitions.
I've using a tekin gen2 now and it feels ok but nothing like my D3.5 Mazilla. I don't race at roar sponsored events so they are allowed.

A racing buddy is selling a SP Competition-MMM 175R for dirt cheap; I think I'm gonna get it from him to test it out. He said that you can use a different timing ring to increase the amount of end bell timing that you can add, Sensor unit +10 timing for V3.0 Motor Red Color

Last edited by DriveItLikeYSIT; 08-29-2013 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:46 PM
  #1874  
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Originally Posted by jack_lee View Post
I had my first run with the R1. Running 10.5t boosted on mid-low traction
asphalt. The car is very easy to drive. But on my third pack, the gear diff started to make noise, like jumping gear noise and eventually i had stripped a lil of the inner bevel gear. I added 0.1mm shim on four of the small bevel gear (first built was no shim,follow 100% manual) and it only last for another 3 packs.

I have fully replaced a new set of inner gear with 0.1mm shim on four of the small bevel gear. Hope this could solve it.

Anyone have any suggestion or advice? Btw, this is my first brand new built out of the box. Previous car was all used car.

Regards.
Does anyone know what other car/manufacturer's
inner gear could be use for the R1? I haven't test on the new set i just replaced. Just in case.

Regards.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DriveItLikeYSIT View Post
I've using a tekin gen2 now and it feels ok but nothing like my D3.5 Mazilla. I don't race at roar sponsored events so they are allowed.

A racing buddy is selling a SP SP Competition-MMM 175R for dirt cheap; I think I'm gonna get it from him to test it out. He said that you can use a different timing ring to increase the amount of end bell timing that you can add, Sensor unit +10 timing for V3.0 Motor Red Color
The closest thing you're going to get to a D3.5 is the new Killshot motors. You can get high torque or high RPM stators, as well as high torque rotors. They are pretty nice motors. However, don't overlook the older D3, those are still pretty strong.
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