Yokomo MR4TC-BD
#7636
Good day guys, i was on my way to ordering parts over the internet for my bd,, i was just wondering is yokomo really gonna stop production for bd parts??? just asking to confirm so i can stock and order more parts,, thanks!!!
#7638
Tech Initiate
#7639
#7640
Wouldn't like to do it with my BD though...
#7642
Tech Regular
Yes pulleys are modified, Yokomo did them for the Japan Nationals last year where duration was an issue.
They do free the car up, particularly when combined with the Bomber belts and do not alter the ratio of the car.
You can do them yourselves quite easily:
1. Using a scaplel blade carefully pry off the side that is glued on the pulley.
2. Using a fine set of side cutters cut away every other tooth.
3. Using a carbide tipped dremel bit clean up that area where you removed the teeth.
4. Glue the pulley side back on.
Job done
They do free the car up, particularly when combined with the Bomber belts and do not alter the ratio of the car.
You can do them yourselves quite easily:
1. Using a scaplel blade carefully pry off the side that is glued on the pulley.
2. Using a fine set of side cutters cut away every other tooth.
3. Using a carbide tipped dremel bit clean up that area where you removed the teeth.
4. Glue the pulley side back on.
Job done
I made 2 pulleys , i can say that it really helps with the transmission !! But you have to be carefull when doing it , it must be as smooth as possible!! Also after that , you have to check the belt tension and set it again!!
I noticed a difference that i think is enough if you think that you just cut some teeth of the pulley out !! also not only it doesn't slip but it CAN'T slip!!
i can post some pics if you want!!
#7643
i tried this guys!!
I made 2 pulleys , i can say that it really helps with the transmission !! But you have to be carefull when doing it , it must be as smooth as possible!! Also after that , you have to check the belt tension and set it again!!
I noticed a difference that i think is enough if you think that you just cut some teeth of the pulley out !! also not only it doesn't slip but it CAN'T slip!!
i can post some pics if you want!!
I made 2 pulleys , i can say that it really helps with the transmission !! But you have to be carefull when doing it , it must be as smooth as possible!! Also after that , you have to check the belt tension and set it again!!
I noticed a difference that i think is enough if you think that you just cut some teeth of the pulley out !! also not only it doesn't slip but it CAN'T slip!!
i can post some pics if you want!!
do you have a method for setting the belt tension? any way to know whether its set correctly?
thanks
#7644
Tech Regular
i tried this guys!!
I made 2 pulleys , i can say that it really helps with the transmission !! But you have to be carefull when doing it , it must be as smooth as possible!! Also after that , you have to check the belt tension and set it again!!
I noticed a difference that i think is enough if you think that you just cut some teeth of the pulley out !! also not only it doesn't slip but it CAN'T slip!!
i can post some pics if you want!!
I made 2 pulleys , i can say that it really helps with the transmission !! But you have to be carefull when doing it , it must be as smooth as possible!! Also after that , you have to check the belt tension and set it again!!
I noticed a difference that i think is enough if you think that you just cut some teeth of the pulley out !! also not only it doesn't slip but it CAN'T slip!!
i can post some pics if you want!!
#7645
Tech Adept
Do both the front and rear pulleys.
Belt tension will not alter, when using the bomber belts you do have to check the tension more often as they do stretch.
The spacers in the shock are there for 2 reasons, 1 is that without the spacer they would just be too long. Also without the spacer you would have waaaay too much pressure due to the amount of travel the piston would have when fully compressing the shock.
I am working on some pics of the front hub assembly.
Belt tension will not alter, when using the bomber belts you do have to check the tension more often as they do stretch.
The spacers in the shock are there for 2 reasons, 1 is that without the spacer they would just be too long. Also without the spacer you would have waaaay too much pressure due to the amount of travel the piston would have when fully compressing the shock.
I am working on some pics of the front hub assembly.
#7646
Tech Adept
When using the cyclone knuckles did you also use the cyclone bearings as the yokomo ones seem a little thin requiring a spacer of sorts, The yokomo inline knuckle is a close fit but a little tight esp if the cyclone king pin bushes were used.
Cheers
Cheers
#7647
#7648
Tech Initiate
Yes run the thicker bronze colour bar on the rear. Sounds wrong, but I ended up removing the front bar altogether and just ran with the rear one as the rear of the car just generates sooooo much grip
#7649
Tech Regular
Here is what i've done!! I removed the pinion from the motor and also removed the front belt from the center pulleys , only the rearpart of the transmission and set the belt tension at a point that it wouldn't be harder to move the rear wheels than when it is set to the loosest point. i did the same for the front and then i put it together!! i also have tighten the center tensioner!!
both pulleys and also used one way for 6 batteries and spool for 4 batteries , and no problem with slipping or anything!!
#7650
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
Do both the front and rear pulleys.
Belt tension will not alter, when using the bomber belts you do have to check the tension more often as they do stretch.
The spacers in the shock are there for 2 reasons, 1 is that without the spacer they would just be too long. Also without the spacer you would have waaaay too much pressure due to the amount of travel the piston would have when fully compressing the shock.
I am working on some pics of the front hub assembly.
Belt tension will not alter, when using the bomber belts you do have to check the tension more often as they do stretch.
The spacers in the shock are there for 2 reasons, 1 is that without the spacer they would just be too long. Also without the spacer you would have waaaay too much pressure due to the amount of travel the piston would have when fully compressing the shock.
I am working on some pics of the front hub assembly.
wouldnt setting your droop screws do the same thing as the spacers in the shocks? meaing it will limit the amount of travel of the piston since you are effectively limiting how far out the piston extends out of the shock? just wondering ....