Yokomo MR4TC-BD
#7622
hello john pape, hoping you could coment on the pulleys mentioned by ark and blazer2 thanks.
#7623
Tech Adept
Yes pulleys are modified, Yokomo did them for the Japan Nationals last year where duration was an issue.
They do free the car up, particularly when combined with the Bomber belts and do not alter the ratio of the car.
You can do them yourselves quite easily:
1. Using a scaplel blade carefully pry off the side that is glued on the pulley.
2. Using a fine set of side cutters cut away every other tooth.
3. Using a carbide tipped dremel bit clean up that area where you removed the teeth.
4. Glue the pulley side back on.
Job done
They do free the car up, particularly when combined with the Bomber belts and do not alter the ratio of the car.
You can do them yourselves quite easily:
1. Using a scaplel blade carefully pry off the side that is glued on the pulley.
2. Using a fine set of side cutters cut away every other tooth.
3. Using a carbide tipped dremel bit clean up that area where you removed the teeth.
4. Glue the pulley side back on.
Job done
#7624
Tech Regular
hi, i cant get hold of the old mr4 tc hubs how much do i need to cut away from the bd carriers so the cgm mod will work.
thanks mark
thanks mark
#7626
thanks john are there anymore team tricks or secrets, you might deivuldge.
#7629
Tech Adept
Can't think of any.
#7630
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Chris Graingers setup from Euros.
Front
Drive train – Yokomo alloy spool and fixed centre pulley
Roll-bar - none
Caster block – 4 plastic
Camber - -2
Toe angle - 0
Susp spacer – 1 mm under all 0.5 mount used
Steering arm - -0 inline graphite
Bladder – Tamiya black, no O ring
Body - new version
Length - 1.5mm spacer inside, 11.6mm travel outside
Spring - Yokomo pro dot pink
Oil – 450
Piston – Tamiya #3
Droop - 5.5 to bottom of caster block
Top link inner – 1mm under ball
Shock upper – 3rd out lower tower
Shock lower – middle
Ride height - 5mm
Ackermann – 2nd from back
Rear
Roll-bar - none
Camber - -2
Toe angle – 3
Susp spacer – 0mm under all
Bladder – Tamiya black no O ring
Body - new version
Length - 1.5mm spacer inside, 11.6mm travel outside
Spring – yokomo pro dot blue
Oil - 400
Piston – Tamiya #3
Droop – 4.5 measured to hub, or wishbone
Top link inner - 0 washers
Top link outer - , short silver ball + 2mm washer
Shock upper – 2nd in
Shock lower - outer hole
Susp arm - graphite
W/B – 2-2
Ride height – 5.5
There are loads on pictures of his car particularly on John Doucakis website.
Front
Drive train – Yokomo alloy spool and fixed centre pulley
Roll-bar - none
Caster block – 4 plastic
Camber - -2
Toe angle - 0
Susp spacer – 1 mm under all 0.5 mount used
Steering arm - -0 inline graphite
Bladder – Tamiya black, no O ring
Body - new version
Length - 1.5mm spacer inside, 11.6mm travel outside
Spring - Yokomo pro dot pink
Oil – 450
Piston – Tamiya #3
Droop - 5.5 to bottom of caster block
Top link inner – 1mm under ball
Shock upper – 3rd out lower tower
Shock lower – middle
Ride height - 5mm
Ackermann – 2nd from back
Rear
Roll-bar - none
Camber - -2
Toe angle – 3
Susp spacer – 0mm under all
Bladder – Tamiya black no O ring
Body - new version
Length - 1.5mm spacer inside, 11.6mm travel outside
Spring – yokomo pro dot blue
Oil - 400
Piston – Tamiya #3
Droop – 4.5 measured to hub, or wishbone
Top link inner - 0 washers
Top link outer - , short silver ball + 2mm washer
Shock upper – 2nd in
Shock lower - outer hole
Susp arm - graphite
W/B – 2-2
Ride height – 5.5
There are loads on pictures of his car particularly on John Doucakis website.
cheerz
#7631
Tech Regular
Yes pulleys are modified, Yokomo did them for the Japan Nationals last year where duration was an issue.
They do free the car up, particularly when combined with the Bomber belts and do not alter the ratio of the car.
You can do them yourselves quite easily:
1. Using a scaplel blade carefully pry off the side that is glued on the pulley.
2. Using a fine set of side cutters cut away every other tooth.
3. Using a carbide tipped dremel bit clean up that area where you removed the teeth.
4. Glue the pulley side back on.
Job done
They do free the car up, particularly when combined with the Bomber belts and do not alter the ratio of the car.
You can do them yourselves quite easily:
1. Using a scaplel blade carefully pry off the side that is glued on the pulley.
2. Using a fine set of side cutters cut away every other tooth.
3. Using a carbide tipped dremel bit clean up that area where you removed the teeth.
4. Glue the pulley side back on.
Job done
thanks mark
#7632
Tech Rookie
i think i might know why he is using spacers inside the shock.
it is probally to do with where the piston ring settles in the shock body and the amount of travel allowed . i know they use to always play with spacing inside the shock body to set droop and make sure that piston was half and half to make sure that it can travel in the middle of the body as in the old days they had trouble with the oil grading and consistancy through the body of the shock.
might be wrong but im sure someone will coorect me if i am.
it is probally to do with where the piston ring settles in the shock body and the amount of travel allowed . i know they use to always play with spacing inside the shock body to set droop and make sure that piston was half and half to make sure that it can travel in the middle of the body as in the old days they had trouble with the oil grading and consistancy through the body of the shock.
might be wrong but im sure someone will coorect me if i am.
#7633
Tech Adept
Hey John, Can you show or explain how Chris fits the yokomo inline knuckle into the HPI/Cyclone C hub??
Thanks
Bryan
Thanks
Bryan
#7634
Hi all
Almost finished my Grainger BD build but a little stumped on the front roll bar.
It seems too big is this normal?
Almost finished my Grainger BD build but a little stumped on the front roll bar.
It seems too big is this normal?
#7635
Tech Initiate
carpet setup
I am after a starting point for a carpet setup, racing on rubber.