Hot Bodies Cyclone
10-05-2008, 11:23 AM
Here's a more specific question to do with cornering speed. After working out some issues I had most of which was a loose rear end adding a rear sway oddly solved it and the car runs great. On power the car turns great and is very neutral however on hard turns where I can't get on the power until late my off power steering just plows through the turn. What can I do to increase the off power steering or where do I need to play with adjustments
10-05-2008, 11:39 AM
Hi all
I have a TC and was wondering if anyone has tried the PPD lipo base weight and the true balance weight. I ask as the cell slots are designed to take the cell trays so are larger than the normal Cyclone so the weights that go into the cell cuts will be different.
Thanks
I have a TC and was wondering if anyone has tried the PPD lipo base weight and the true balance weight. I ask as the cell slots are designed to take the cell trays so are larger than the normal Cyclone so the weights that go into the cell cuts will be different.
Thanks
10-05-2008, 11:44 AM
my setup on low grip smooth , asphalt outdoor medium tight track:
front:
under camber link 2mm
under toe pivot block 1mm FF and FR
4mm ackerman
shock oil 40w 3 hole piston hole number 1 position
droop over ride height 2mm
ride height 5mm
spool
0.5 toe out
2.5 toe block
camber 1.5
anti roll bar 1.4mm
rear:
under camber link 1mm
under toe pivot block 1.5mm RR and RF
shock oil 40w 3 hole piston hole number 3 position
droop over ride height 3mm
ride height 5.5mm
2.5 toe in
3.0 toe block
camber 1.5
anti roll bar 1.2mm
i run 5 cell in front modified 5.5 BL
front:
under camber link 2mm
under toe pivot block 1mm FF and FR
4mm ackerman
shock oil 40w 3 hole piston hole number 1 position
droop over ride height 2mm
ride height 5mm
spool
0.5 toe out
2.5 toe block
camber 1.5
anti roll bar 1.4mm
rear:
under camber link 1mm
under toe pivot block 1.5mm RR and RF
shock oil 40w 3 hole piston hole number 3 position
droop over ride height 3mm
ride height 5.5mm
2.5 toe in
3.0 toe block
camber 1.5
anti roll bar 1.2mm
i run 5 cell in front modified 5.5 BL
-Korey
10-05-2008, 11:46 AM
Here's a more specific question to do with cornering speed. After working out some issues I had most of which was a loose rear end adding a rear sway oddly solved it and the car runs great. On power the car turns great and is very neutral however on hard turns where I can't get on the power until late my off power steering just plows through the turn. What can I do to increase the off power steering or where do I need to play with adjustments
-Korey
10-05-2008, 11:49 AM
Hi all
I have a TC and was wondering if anyone has tried the PPD lipo base weight and the true balance weight. I ask as the cell slots are designed to take the cell trays so are larger than the normal Cyclone so the weights that go into the cell cuts will be different.
Thanks
I have a TC and was wondering if anyone has tried the PPD lipo base weight and the true balance weight. I ask as the cell slots are designed to take the cell trays so are larger than the normal Cyclone so the weights that go into the cell cuts will be different.
Thanks
Now, we discussed that he could move the parts that drop down into the cell slots, slightly offset, or moved around to make the baseplate stay in one spot. But since it's such a specialized thing he probably wouldn't make any unless there was a huge demand for them.
So if you want them made... GO BUG HIM!!!! Because I want some too
-Korey
10-05-2008, 11:52 AM
In that case does the normal one fit even if its a bit loose?
10-05-2008, 11:55 AM
Tech Fanatic
has any one got pic of their novak brushless esc installed
has any one got pic on here with their novak esc installed with their sensor wired neatly install with power cap thxs reggie
10-05-2008, 12:03 PM
This is something I fought with a lot when I first got my car. It just felt a little lazy overall compared to cars I've had in the past. I just shortened up my camber links and that made a world of difference. The car is much more reactive, and turns in WAY better off power. Try that, and also maybe loosen up your rear droop screws just a tiny bit.
-Korey
-Korey
10-05-2008, 12:14 PM
Hmmm, IT would probably work better if you stood up your shocks a little bit, and just went to a softer spring. IT will be more reactive and still maintain the same, or more grip.
You are correct on the shorter camber link. But, since you are on very low grip I think it would be better for you to stay with the longer camber link, as it will generate a little more traction that way. It's always worth a try though. My track is really tight, and very high grip, so the shorter camber links really suit my conditions. I usually use longer camber links when the grip is low, so the car will be smoother and easier to drive.
-Korey
You are correct on the shorter camber link. But, since you are on very low grip I think it would be better for you to stay with the longer camber link, as it will generate a little more traction that way. It's always worth a try though. My track is really tight, and very high grip, so the shorter camber links really suit my conditions. I usually use longer camber links when the grip is low, so the car will be smoother and easier to drive.
-Korey
10-05-2008, 12:20 PM
This is something I fought with a lot when I first got my car. It just felt a little lazy overall compared to cars I've had in the past. I just shortened up my camber links and that made a world of difference. The car is much more reactive, and turns in WAY better off power. Try that, and also maybe loosen up your rear droop screws just a tiny bit.
-Korey
-Korey
10-05-2008, 12:21 PM
Hmmm, IT would probably work better if you stood up your shocks a little bit, and just went to a softer spring. IT will be more reactive and still maintain the same, or more grip.
You are correct on the shorter camber link. But, since you are on very low grip I think it would be better for you to stay with the longer camber link, as it will generate a little more traction that way. It's always worth a try though. My track is really tight, and very high grip, so the shorter camber links really suit my conditions. I usually use longer camber links when the grip is low, so the car will be smoother and easier to drive.
-Korey
You are correct on the shorter camber link. But, since you are on very low grip I think it would be better for you to stay with the longer camber link, as it will generate a little more traction that way. It's always worth a try though. My track is really tight, and very high grip, so the shorter camber links really suit my conditions. I usually use longer camber links when the grip is low, so the car will be smoother and easier to drive.
-Korey
i.e i was on hole number 3 then went to 1 for front and had more steering.
So you would recomend me to stay where i am with my camber links.
Is there any othe way instead of changing the spring , because i will have to order them , wait for a while ...it will take alot of time .
when you say i should change my spring rate do you mean i should put softer springs or stiffer springs , front or rear or both .How do you mesure spring rate because i might be able to borrow some xray spring since people at my track have alot of xrays and i could try them .
10-05-2008, 01:19 PM
Anyone have the three-hole piston part number handy?
10-05-2008, 01:52 PM
10-05-2008, 02:46 PM
your in luck ASM, I just finally got mine in from Hong Kong, part 73524
10-05-2008, 04:02 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (63)
Too late...just got thru putting in a 15 hour day and got this run completed.
What is the difference between these 2 chassis?? The one I used is a newer Cyclone with the battery tabs that snap into slots. I compared it to another Cyclone chassis that Mike had and the chassis profile matched. I dont locate on the "width" of the chassis, I locate on the angles coming off the width seen below. Also, there is a bit of room in the thru holes and a visual guide profile to line up to. ...Checked the chassis I layed out. Its 4.305 wide so it must be the TC, so this should fit both...I hope.
I'll post pics tomarrow....there are a buttload of holes on this model...49 to be exact (including tapped clamp holes). I'll keep the price the same even though labor costs are 20% higher with all the mount locations.
What is the difference between these 2 chassis?? The one I used is a newer Cyclone with the battery tabs that snap into slots. I compared it to another Cyclone chassis that Mike had and the chassis profile matched. I dont locate on the "width" of the chassis, I locate on the angles coming off the width seen below. Also, there is a bit of room in the thru holes and a visual guide profile to line up to. ...Checked the chassis I layed out. Its 4.305 wide so it must be the TC, so this should fit both...I hope.
I'll post pics tomarrow....there are a buttload of holes on this model...49 to be exact (including tapped clamp holes). I'll keep the price the same even though labor costs are 20% higher with all the mount locations.