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Old 08-05-2008, 08:07 AM
  #13261  
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Originally Posted by grizzle
I replace the cyclone tc rear hubs with a pro4 rear hubs which I bought just recently that's why maybe it came from the batch with mis-molding issue.. anyway I will try the fix that you recommend... until I bought an aluminum rear hub.

STLNST... I have yet to run the car I'm still using my old and trusted pro4 here in parking lot racing.. so still have to see if the uneven toe will result in uneven tire wear. Did the uneven toe affect the handling of the car.. say if the other is 3degrees and the other is 2degrees...
The uneven toe didn't really hurt the performance much. I could only feel it wander on the straight. Even though it wasn't felt in the corners if the toe was even from side to side I now my corner speed would have been even faster. Once corrected I ended up TQ'ing and winning that day. If you do end up going with alum rear hubs don't run the stock ball studs. They break too easy. Upgrade to a pair of titanium (sp) ball studs.

Originally Posted by Lazer Guy
Has anybody tried the HPI rear hub 31417 1/R/L with 2* rear pivot block ???
That would still give you 3* rear toe. There is supposed to be some advantage to having 1* at the wheel and 2* at the pivot block but I don't know what that advantage would be for sure ??? I would like to know more about this combination before I try it myself.
Thanks
Hara told me to always run rear toe in the pivot blocks. He said no one runs the HB alum 1degree hubs. He said it feels different. I want to try the different hubs myself but the HB hubs are pricey.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:32 AM
  #13262  
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Basically when you introduce outboard toe in, it will make the car turn in softer, but rotate a little more mid-exit. When there is no outboard toe, the car will get into the corner really good, and when you get on throttle (usually mid to exit) the car will hook up really good. It will also have really good forward bite to launch off the corner

I like outboard toe when it's a super tight, high traction track like my home track, Seattle Indoor Raceway. But other than that... usually all inboard toe feels better.

-Korey
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:33 AM
  #13263  
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Thank you jag88
That gives me more to think about.

Thank you STLNLST
Some of the Xray guys think the 1*/ 2* thing works for them is why I asked.
I sure agree with you on the ball studs, I used to break them moving stuff around working on my cars setup.

Thank guys
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:39 AM
  #13264  
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s anyone tried the losi 10 mm pistons? The #57 is .0430 in and the 1.1 mm are .0433 in. You think if the 1.1 3 hole pistons were used for most of the rubber tire asphalt setups that they would be easyer to get.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:51 AM
  #13265  
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Thank you Korey
Thats a great explanation and gives me more to think about.
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:18 AM
  #13266  
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HB CYCLONE TC Suspension arm back in stock !
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:19 AM
  #13267  
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Originally Posted by Besercoe
I have just been looking at the pics form the Euro's, looks like Volker is running a few different settings, top deck has been split all the way down the centre, with the rear deck seperated. and it also looks like he is running different front driveshafts, look remarkably similar to losi double joints.

Check out the pic on redrc.net coverage
I tried using the Losi uj driveshafts in the WCE way back in August last year, but the Losi has imperial size bearings, so had to fit the hub carriers to, they did fit and cut out all the chatter, but the steering geometry was wrong as it lost all steering, so never developed it any further, I put a grub screw in both of the holes in the hub, then drilled a hole in between them, but it just felt wrong, shame really, as there was NO chatter on full lock whatsoever, I used to run the JRX-S and Type R and loved the idea of drive-shafts, maybe I will have another go.
What pic number are you saying that it looks like Volker is using them, as I cant see it.
Cheers Malc
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Old 08-05-2008, 12:13 PM
  #13268  
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found this on Red rc, apparently give more rear end grip
Malc
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-fri-andymoorewishbone.jpg  
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Old 08-05-2008, 01:36 PM
  #13269  
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Anyone run the new pro diff with plastic outdrives with mod motors yet? I was told not to run the plastic pro diff with mod motors because they will be destroyed...which doesnt really make sense...I've run TC5 with plastic diff with 4.5 motors and they lasted over 5 runs as long keep the rings on.
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Old 08-05-2008, 01:41 PM
  #13270  
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Anyone run the new pro diff with plastic outdrives with mod motors yet? I was told not to run the plastic pro diff with mod motors because they will be destroyed...which doesnt really make sense...I've run TC5 with plastic diff with 4.5 motors and they lasted over 5 runs as long keep the rings on.
POM diff is no problem in modified, it gives more rear traction.
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Old 08-05-2008, 02:52 PM
  #13271  
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan
found this on Red rc, apparently give more rear end grip
Malc

Anybody try the 'high traction suspension arm set' on their car ?
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Old 08-05-2008, 03:45 PM
  #13272  
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I ran my new TC with a 5.5 and the diff outdrives showed no signs of wear after 5 runs.
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Old 08-05-2008, 04:34 PM
  #13273  
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Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Anyone run the new pro diff with plastic outdrives with mod motors yet? I was told not to run the plastic pro diff with mod motors because they will be destroyed...which doesnt really make sense...I've run TC5 with plastic diff with 4.5 motors and they lasted over 5 runs as long keep the rings on.
Yes, the pro spec diff (POM) is no problem at all in Mod. POM is not plastic, it's delrin material. It works better than the aluminum outdrive sometimes.
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Old 08-05-2008, 04:54 PM
  #13274  
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan
I tried using the Losi uj driveshafts in the WCE way back in August last year, but the Losi has imperial size bearings, so had to fit the hub carriers to, they did fit and cut out all the chatter, but the steering geometry was wrong as it lost all steering, so never developed it any further, I put a grub screw in both of the holes in the hub, then drilled a hole in between them, but it just felt wrong, shame really, as there was NO chatter on full lock whatsoever, I used to run the JRX-S and Type R and loved the idea of drive-shafts, maybe I will have another go.
What pic number are you saying that it looks like Volker is using them, as I cant see it.
Cheers Malc
You can see it here on Volkers car. The joint is much further out than is needed for a normal UJ.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-sat-ronaldvolkerhb-3.jpg  
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:43 PM
  #13275  
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Originally Posted by jag88
Anybody try the 'high traction suspension arm set' on their car ?
Yes, works nice for outdoor asphalt, and most drivers in Florida running Cyclones use them, especially on low-med traction outdoor asphalt surfaces. They are less likely to break in severe crashes as well.
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