Hot Bodies Cyclone
11-12-2007, 06:29 PM
well i cant really say im looking for a different top deck just a different design because the place where it breaks is very weak.
11-12-2007, 06:35 PM
11-12-2007, 06:42 PM
i dont know if the picture will work.
also the aluminum piece infront of the motor mount seems to bend out when this happens.
11-12-2007, 06:46 PM
now i remember i did have a crack one in that spot a year ago and it was due to a bent bulkhead in the front, when i installed the new top deck it wasnt aligning properly and it was adding extra stress to it, might be a long shot but try that 1st
11-12-2007, 06:54 PM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNZG5&P=7
so this being bent the slightest bit is making this happen?
so this being bent the slightest bit is making this happen?
11-12-2007, 07:04 PM
Whats the biggest spur I can fit being safe with the stock motor mounts?
I want to do a 105, or 106, will this hang out the bottom of the chassis? Or am I safe?
I want to do a 105, or 106, will this hang out the bottom of the chassis? Or am I safe?
11-12-2007, 07:13 PM
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNZG5&P=7
so this being bent the slightest bit is making this happen?
so this being bent the slightest bit is making this happen?
11-12-2007, 07:14 PM
110 spur fits just fine it sticks out of the chassis about .010" i ran it for a year no problems at all 108 fits with no worries,you are safe with any of those
11-12-2007, 07:19 PM
11-12-2007, 07:21 PM
11-12-2007, 07:25 PM
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11-12-2007, 07:30 PM
the foam car has the 108 spur and the other has the 110 (hpi spur)
11-12-2007, 08:06 PM
No no, I didnt mean it that way lol
I mean FDR wise, I dont want to order one because every time I have tried from my track, he cant get anything bigger then 47, and I want to stay in the 4.8/9 range
BTW, nice messy wiring
I mean FDR wise, I dont want to order one because every time I have tried from my track, he cant get anything bigger then 47, and I want to stay in the 4.8/9 range
BTW, nice messy wiring
11-12-2007, 11:51 PM
Trying to set up a spec electric series at our club based on the Cyclone RTR - I need a few questions answered to tighnen up the rules. Any answers you could give me - or better yet a contact at HB to whom I could send these questions to would be appreciated (contact link on their site is an empty page).
Cyclone RTR
What wheel/tires does it come with?
What would you spec as a comparable replacement?
What servo does it come with?
Would a Futaba S3004 be a comparable replacement?
I assume that it comes with a silver can (540), can this be confirmed?
Cyclone S
Is this chassi identical to the RTR minus the electronics and paint?
General
Any comments on the weak links of the RTR so that I can get my LHS to load up on commonly broken parts?
Any comments on the feasibility of taking the RTR - upgrading the electronics / tires / bodies and running in Stock Rubber class?
Thanks
Cyclone RTR
What wheel/tires does it come with?
What would you spec as a comparable replacement?
What servo does it come with?
Would a Futaba S3004 be a comparable replacement?
I assume that it comes with a silver can (540), can this be confirmed?
Cyclone S
Is this chassi identical to the RTR minus the electronics and paint?
General
Any comments on the weak links of the RTR so that I can get my LHS to load up on commonly broken parts?
Any comments on the feasibility of taking the RTR - upgrading the electronics / tires / bodies and running in Stock Rubber class?
Thanks
First the kit C hubs are rubbish, get rid of them and replace them with Carbon Graphite. You dont want people breaking them on their first meet and getting discouraged (which is a high probability). I would make the change mandatory :P
If you allow people to build up the cyclone S from scratch there are a couple of build issues you should be wary of with the diff halves and the shock bodies so make sure you find out about that.
Finally you will find that a 540 motor isnt ideal in the car as the bottom vent is covered by the chassis. The motor will tend to get hotter than it should.
I personally would give people the opting of removing the motor guard on the side and then put in a $10 motor spacer to move the can out a few mm.
11-13-2007, 03:51 AM