Hot Bodies Cyclone
11-12-2007, 10:59 AM
Hi All,
Do HotBodies do a 3-Hole pistons for the shocks and/or will the Tamiya TRF Damper Pistons 3 hole (4pcs.)(53573) work on the HPI/HB shocks?
Cheers,
Liam
Do HotBodies do a 3-Hole pistons for the shocks and/or will the Tamiya TRF Damper Pistons 3 hole (4pcs.)(53573) work on the HPI/HB shocks?
Cheers,
Liam
11-12-2007, 11:10 AM
I need a suggestion.
Yesterday we've the first winter season race. For a tons of reason, the race was held over a surface called linoleum.
Kind of plastic surface, not the usual green stuff of the sports park.
Grip was little less than zero...
I've used 14lbs rear and 16lbs front. Oil 40. Mandatory tires Schumacher Dragon White.
I know that (in Uk) someone is racing over polished wood, I believe the grip to be almost the same (zero).
Can someone give me an idea?
Thanks
Giorgio
Yesterday we've the first winter season race. For a tons of reason, the race was held over a surface called linoleum.
Kind of plastic surface, not the usual green stuff of the sports park.
Grip was little less than zero...
I've used 14lbs rear and 16lbs front. Oil 40. Mandatory tires Schumacher Dragon White.
I know that (in Uk) someone is racing over polished wood, I believe the grip to be almost the same (zero).
Can someone give me an idea?
Thanks
Giorgio
11-12-2007, 11:14 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Spec Series
Trying to set up a spec electric series at our club based on the Cyclone RTR - I need a few questions answered to tighnen up the rules. Any answers you could give me - or better yet a contact at HB to whom I could send these questions to would be appreciated (contact link on their site is an empty page).
Cyclone RTR
What wheel/tires does it come with?
What would you spec as a comparable replacement?
What servo does it come with?
Would a Futaba S3004 be a comparable replacement?
I assume that it comes with a silver can (540), can this be confirmed?
Cyclone S
Is this chassi identical to the RTR minus the electronics and paint?
General
Any comments on the weak links of the RTR so that I can get my LHS to load up on commonly broken parts?
Any comments on the feasibility of taking the RTR - upgrading the electronics / tires / bodies and running in Stock Rubber class?
Thanks
Cyclone RTR
What wheel/tires does it come with?
What would you spec as a comparable replacement?
What servo does it come with?
Would a Futaba S3004 be a comparable replacement?
I assume that it comes with a silver can (540), can this be confirmed?
Cyclone S
Is this chassi identical to the RTR minus the electronics and paint?
General
Any comments on the weak links of the RTR so that I can get my LHS to load up on commonly broken parts?
Any comments on the feasibility of taking the RTR - upgrading the electronics / tires / bodies and running in Stock Rubber class?
Thanks
11-12-2007, 03:14 PM
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Last edited by TylerOwenby; 11-12-2007 at 06:45 PM. Reason: Sorry
11-12-2007, 03:19 PM
yea and the race that i broke on was the main that i qualified 2 out of 12 people the problem wasnt me hitting walls it was people hitting me. I personally dont think u have much room to talk even if you were just playing around. I asked if anyone else had the same problem not if i hit walls.
and i hit walls? last in every race u were in? http://thunder.rcresults.com/2007Sno...ionals-OnRoad/
and i hit walls? last in every race u were in? http://thunder.rcresults.com/2007Sno...ionals-OnRoad/
i see you put the results from the birds, were you there or are you refering to my main that i didnt start? I ran Mod foam 1st time ever in carpet and with foam tiresi think i was the only non pro guy in the mod field, Which it was very hard all my qualifying heats i had people like Hara,Temuu,Barry,Toso and so onand Im flattered that you looked into my racing results (got me a grupie
)
11-12-2007, 03:26 PM
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Last edited by TylerOwenby; 11-12-2007 at 06:44 PM. Reason: Sorry
11-12-2007, 03:27 PM
No not your Mod but your 19T. But that was an example and it is sad that you would tell some one just to stop hitting walls as a solution. I figured you would have a solution seeing as you have alot of input in alot of threads. I think you should try and help people with problems not say your basically not good enough you need to get better.
as far as the top deck dont know i ran my cyclone for almost a year and a half with no problems not sure why yours is breaking can you post a picture of it
11-12-2007, 03:37 PM
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Last edited by TylerOwenby; 11-12-2007 at 06:44 PM. Reason: Sorry
11-12-2007, 03:43 PM
11-12-2007, 03:48 PM
UPDATE!
Hot Bodies Cyclone S On-Road screw kits are now in stock!
Hot Bodies Cyclone S On-Road 150-piece high grade 12.9 alloy steel socket head screw kit. Kit includes all applicable cap, flat and button head screws, as well as nuts, washers and set screws.
Thanks and best regards,
Hot Bodies Cyclone S On-Road screw kits are now in stock!
Hot Bodies Cyclone S On-Road 150-piece high grade 12.9 alloy steel socket head screw kit. Kit includes all applicable cap, flat and button head screws, as well as nuts, washers and set screws.
Thanks and best regards,
11-12-2007, 04:43 PM
I have no idea which car in the video was yours. But I can still have a guess at what's wrong with the setup.
Tires: Change them! Anything from Take-off/RP/Sorex. Check with the local fast drivers to see what their using. If the track is bumpy, then use a softer insert with more airgap.
Castor: 1 deg is probably too direct for such a large high speed track. Change to 4deg. This gives you much more stability.
Camber - check your tire wear. If the outer portion of the tire is getting worn, then use more camber. I'd try around -1. No more.
Roll centers - which blocks are you using on the car? Use a SMALL or very thin spacer under the blocks. Good for low traction tracks as the car rolls more to generate grip.
Maybe try heavier weight oil to calm the car down. Esp with the above changes.
Rear Toe: Use more toe if the rear kicks out. For MOD I never run anything less than 2.5, even more regularly 3.0deg
That's just a general observation. Hope that helps you on your way.
Tires: Change them! Anything from Take-off/RP/Sorex. Check with the local fast drivers to see what their using. If the track is bumpy, then use a softer insert with more airgap.
Castor: 1 deg is probably too direct for such a large high speed track. Change to 4deg. This gives you much more stability.
Camber - check your tire wear. If the outer portion of the tire is getting worn, then use more camber. I'd try around -1. No more.
Roll centers - which blocks are you using on the car? Use a SMALL or very thin spacer under the blocks. Good for low traction tracks as the car rolls more to generate grip.
Maybe try heavier weight oil to calm the car down. Esp with the above changes.
Rear Toe: Use more toe if the rear kicks out. For MOD I never run anything less than 2.5, even more regularly 3.0deg
That's just a general observation. Hope that helps you on your way.
front i use 2.5 , rear i use 3.0 block which is standard for black edition cyclone.
d caster u mean is +4 degree ??? wouldnt tat too much steering ???
d white car is mine..
11-12-2007, 05:43 PM
11-12-2007, 06:01 PM
I think you really took his too personal....... Most people do, he's just having some fun man.
11-12-2007, 06:03 PM
Stew is there another top deck besides the BMI that is thicker than the stock one?
11-12-2007, 06:26 PM
I'm afraid not, although Team Bomber make a very slightly different top deck, I don't think its any thicker......if you're having that much of a problem I guess you could use a composite Cyclone-S top deck, which can withstand harsher impacts before snapping than c/f, but this will almost defiantly have an adverse effect on the handling of the car...