Hot Bodies Cyclone
06-12-2007, 09:39 AM
#8716
hey my hara ed. has 3 places for the e-clips on the shock shaft so you can either have the piston in a lower our higher position. whats the difference. the stock manual doesnt have any information.
i also have a bunch of pro4 pistons. in a andy moore setup i have he says he has 3 holes is that the small 3 hole piston that is in the pro4 complete set? i would think the #1 with the two big holes would be better. (trying to go off a xray setup for our local track and they have all 4 holes open on their piston so trying to get as close to that with our pistons.)
i also have a bunch of pro4 pistons. in a andy moore setup i have he says he has 3 holes is that the small 3 hole piston that is in the pro4 complete set? i would think the #1 with the two big holes would be better. (trying to go off a xray setup for our local track and they have all 4 holes open on their piston so trying to get as close to that with our pistons.)
06-12-2007, 03:15 PM
#8717
What's different with the two versions? I got a set of 61043 shafts and a version 3 spool. Have not installed yet, but fit perfectly.
Does HB have a compatability chart anywhere as to what ver. this goes with what ver. that. 
06-12-2007, 10:28 PM
#8718
The 61043 will work just fine in the v2 cups, and 61044 will work on the rear diff. I bent one of my front aluminum bones in the front first time out. If you measure them with a pair of calipers you'll see that they are identical. I was confused too!
06-13-2007, 06:28 AM
#8719
Tech Adept
I'm a little worried about the drivetrain. I am new to belt drive anything. I built it up and shimmed and put the eccentric bearing hubs on the diffs the way the instructions said to.
But when I set the car on the ground and give it a light push, it stops fairly quickly.
How can I make it freer?
But when I set the car on the ground and give it a light push, it stops fairly quickly.
How can I make it freer?
06-13-2007, 06:34 AM
#8720
Drive it and don't worry about it. If you followed the manual and assembled it the way it said to, your fine.
Unless of course, you're going to push the car around the track!
Unless of course, you're going to push the car around the track!
06-13-2007, 06:41 AM
#8721
The drivetrain will free up after a bit of running, just needs a bit of time for everything to get bedded in properly.
06-13-2007, 07:12 AM
#8722
i woul still check fir binding . make sure everything is free. as long as u put the shims in right u should be fine, but there might be something rubbing or a bearing that is shot that could cause this. take the motor out and rotate the tires to find any binding that may be going on then locate it and fit the problem.
06-13-2007, 07:40 AM
#8723
I've had my cyclone for a while now and decided to change belts cause mine were lookind a bit worn.
When I put new ones in, they were so tight that they were putting too much strain on the drivetrain and made it pretty loud. Even after quite a few runs they were still very tight. In the end I had to put the old ones back in.
Has anyone else had this happen? Is there variation between belts?
Thanks
When I put new ones in, they were so tight that they were putting too much strain on the drivetrain and made it pretty loud. Even after quite a few runs they were still very tight. In the end I had to put the old ones back in.
Has anyone else had this happen? Is there variation between belts?
Thanks
06-13-2007, 08:25 AM
#8724
Tech Initiate
I've had that with the rear belt before. I just moved the eccentrics to a different position.
As for the car feeling tight above, remove the shims from the diff altogether. They're not needed. Use the shims when the car gets worn and there is more play.
As for the car feeling tight above, remove the shims from the diff altogether. They're not needed. Use the shims when the car gets worn and there is more play.
06-13-2007, 09:02 AM
#8725
I had them set so the belt would be as loose as it would go, but still waaay to tight (mainly the front belt).
Anyone tried the excel low friction belts? Would this help?
Or am I missing something completely? This is my first belt driven car, and I wouldnt know if there was anything you're supposed to do to belts before you install them.
Anyone tried the excel low friction belts? Would this help?
Or am I missing something completely? This is my first belt driven car, and I wouldnt know if there was anything you're supposed to do to belts before you install them.
06-13-2007, 12:12 PM
#8726
If that was the case with your Belt being so TIGHT. run a XRAY T@ belt, it has 2 more teeth and give you more play. But i would have to say that the belt was made wrong or packaged wrong to be that tight/.
I break in every new car, belt and Bearing for a minimum of 3 to 4 hours , and my car and free wheel for a long time, and is as smooth as glass.
Just my .2 cents worth
I break in every new car, belt and Bearing for a minimum of 3 to 4 hours , and my car and free wheel for a long time, and is as smooth as glass.
Just my .2 cents worth
06-13-2007, 01:15 PM
#8728
OK thanks guys.
To describe how tight the front belt was, as soon as I installed it there was always a clicking noise coming from the front spool. When I put the old one back in, the noise was gone.
I'll just persume its a fault of some sort and get another one.
To describe how tight the front belt was, as soon as I installed it there was always a clicking noise coming from the front spool. When I put the old one back in, the noise was gone.
I'll just persume its a fault of some sort and get another one.
06-13-2007, 10:06 PM
#8730
With the unis the v2 ones are meant to have a slightly larger bulb on the end where the fixed pin is that sits in the drive cups.
For v1 equipment it means that there is a little bit of play and this would probably results in slightly more wear or slop. It's probably ok to use v1 unis with v2/v3 drive cups, but not ideal. I would think that using v2 unis with old v1 drive cups is a bad thing though.
For v1 equipment it means that there is a little bit of play and this would probably results in slightly more wear or slop. It's probably ok to use v1 unis with v2/v3 drive cups, but not ideal. I would think that using v2 unis with old v1 drive cups is a bad thing though.