Hot Bodies Cyclone
#8089
Suspended
iTrader: (87)
Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace
I broke 7 diff screws in my first cyclone and zero in my 2nd. For minimal breakage use the Delrin outdrives the associated diff screws and nuts, and put a small washer in the outdirve before you put in the nut and you should have decent life out of them. There is a link somewhere where Hara shows the best way to build the diff. I also used all ceramics in my diffs and they were butter for 3 months till I sold my car.
there still smooooth
#8092
For those who are having problems with snapping diff screws, I haven't broken anyone so far. I'm using the titanium one from HB, but the one from Edit will also work. Another thing I always do is loosening the diff screw at the end of a race/practise day, so there isn't a constant pressure on the screw (only when you use it).
#8093
Originally Posted by stephen hilton
roll centres what do they do? ie i have never put shims under the pivot blocks before (thinking of trying 1mm all round) are you supposed to put them under the pivot blocks ie the front and back ones but do you put them under all 4 pivot (blocks using 8 shims) or just under the ones that you can change???????
#8094
It changes your roll center. You're probably best reading the following link: http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/ , go to suspension>roll center.
Another thing you can change with it is the anti-dive/kick-up (front) and anti-squat (rear).
Another thing you can change with it is the anti-dive/kick-up (front) and anti-squat (rear).
#8096
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by Thraex
For those who are having problems with snapping diff screws, I haven't broken anyone so far. I'm using the titanium one from HB, but the one from Edit will also work. Another thing I always do is loosening the diff screw at the end of a race/practise day, so there isn't a constant pressure on the screw (only when you use it).
#8097
Originally Posted by Besercoe
I did many diff screws, i followed peoples advice here, drilled out the short side of the diff with a 3mm drill, and placed a 1mm suspension shim under the diff nut. No more problems to date.
#8098
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
I have been running the Cyclone for almost a year now and I have broken maybe 3 screws (2 in 1 day really pissed me off!). But... on the whole, I don't really see a problem with the diffs the way that they are as long as you know how to build them in the first place, and know how much tension to give them. The main problem is that people tighten them up too much. You need to give them a little bit of slip otherwise it will snap.
Also... its very important to break them in, particularly by hand. Andy showed me step-by-step how he builds his diffs and by simply breaking the diff in by hand, you really shouldn't have a problem (I haven't broken one in around 3 months, and I haven't had them loosening off too). The main thing is that the diff feels really free, yet also has a very strong action. When you build your diff, build it loose and tighten it up in the car. That'll help prevent you to not overtighten.
Also... its very important to break them in, particularly by hand. Andy showed me step-by-step how he builds his diffs and by simply breaking the diff in by hand, you really shouldn't have a problem (I haven't broken one in around 3 months, and I haven't had them loosening off too). The main thing is that the diff feels really free, yet also has a very strong action. When you build your diff, build it loose and tighten it up in the car. That'll help prevent you to not overtighten.
#8099
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Originally Posted by F. Alonso
I have been running the Cyclone for almost a year now and I have broken maybe 3 screws (2 in 1 day really pissed me off!). But... on the whole, I don't really see a problem with the diffs the way that they are as long as you know how to build them in the first place, and know how much tension to give them. The main problem is that people tighten them up too much. You need to give them a little bit of slip otherwise it will snap.
Also... its very important to break them in, particularly by hand. Andy showed me step-by-step how he builds his diffs and by simply breaking the diff in by hand, you really shouldn't have a problem (I haven't broken one in around 3 months, and I haven't had them loosening off too). The main thing is that the diff feels really free, yet also has a very strong action. When you build your diff, build it loose and tighten it up in the car. That'll help prevent you to not overtighten.
Also... its very important to break them in, particularly by hand. Andy showed me step-by-step how he builds his diffs and by simply breaking the diff in by hand, you really shouldn't have a problem (I haven't broken one in around 3 months, and I haven't had them loosening off too). The main thing is that the diff feels really free, yet also has a very strong action. When you build your diff, build it loose and tighten it up in the car. That'll help prevent you to not overtighten.
#8100
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by bxpitbull
Why are the metal outdrives w/blades cheaper than the composite outdrives?
BUMP, ahem TTT
BUMP, ahem TTT