Hot Bodies Cyclone
10-30-2006, 04:31 PM
#5987
Hello Racers.
Hi Fellow racers. i have just sold off all my JRX-S, and now have a Cyclone. I would like a good base line for a carpet set up and what to use for springs, since i dont understand the hotbodies spec on spring..Nick
10-30-2006, 05:22 PM
#5988
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Phoenix82
Hi Fellow racers. i have just sold off all my JRX-S, and now have a Cyclone. I would like a good base line for a carpet set up and what to use for springs, since i dont understand the hotbodies spec on spring..Nick
Snowy.
10-30-2006, 05:41 PM
#5989
Originally Posted by Capt.Micro
Im looking for some Aluminum Steering blocks and C hubs other than those put out by Jet Racing or 3 Racing. I was told the T2 Steering blocks were a direct fit so the team Tamale ones are a possibility but I was looking for other solutions...
10-30-2006, 06:34 PM
#5990
Originally Posted by rc-zombies
I'm no expert driver..and the track I race on is full of boards and dots and beat up cars badly. if you're looking for durability..aluminum c-hubs is not the answer. you will only end up breaking arms. Something has to give. durability...invest in a $10 p-dub bumper before you go out and spend $60+ on aluminum parts. Trust me... I've done the aluminum and it's a waste of $$$$ and the only place to place to get aluminum parts is overseas. and remember too..once those aluminum C-hubs get bent... they stay bent.
10-30-2006, 08:52 PM
#5991
tires..
hi we are running foam tire, i run 27t and 19t.Nick
10-30-2006, 11:30 PM
#5992
I've been running Jet's aluminium steering knuckles and c-hubs for at least 2 years now (at first on my Pro 4 and now on my Cyclone). Apart from the occasional wishbone breakage (probably done about 3 or 4 in total) I've not had any problems with anything else breaking/bending. I used to find that when I broke something on the front it broke everything, knuckle, c hub, top hat washers, ball studs, sometimes driveshafts, all in one go.
10-31-2006, 08:55 AM
#5993
Originally Posted by Skill
I've been running Jet's aluminium steering knuckles and c-hubs for at least 2 years now (at first on my Pro 4 and now on my Cyclone). Apart from the occasional wishbone breakage (probably done about 3 or 4 in total) I've not had any problems with anything else breaking/bending. I used to find that when I broke something on the front it broke everything, knuckle, c hub, top hat washers, ball studs, sometimes driveshafts, all in one go.
10-31-2006, 09:28 AM
#5994
Tower Hobbies has a full line of Cyclone parts in stock!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ne&FVPROFIL=++
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ne&FVPROFIL=++
10-31-2006, 10:50 AM
#5995
Originally Posted by JonboyGB
Hey Willz
where abouts in Bristol do you race? are you doing the carpet thrashnals?
Laters John
where abouts in Bristol do you race? are you doing the carpet thrashnals?
Laters John
Hi there John,
Well i used to race at Bristol club but its normally at Cotswolds. Yeah im doing the thrashnals, did the first round and had sooo much bad luck with the RDX hence the new car
. I should be there round 3 tho!Willz
10-31-2006, 01:41 PM
#5996
Tech Master
Hey,
Anyone know where I can get a P-dub hard front bumper for my cyclone?
Anyone know where I can get a P-dub hard front bumper for my cyclone?
10-31-2006, 01:50 PM
#5997
The P-Dub Pro4 bumper is the one you want. It is a direct fit on the Cyclone. However, I haven't seen any places with these in stock for a while now.
10-31-2006, 08:44 PM
#5999
Originally Posted by Static_racing
Hey,
Anyone know where I can get a P-dub hard front bumper for my cyclone?
Anyone know where I can get a P-dub hard front bumper for my cyclone?
http://nexusracing.net/index.php?osC...b21de687e17b10 he is very good and ships fast.
11-01-2006, 01:36 PM
#6000
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Hello All,
I'm going to finish my BMI-clone buildup tonight, and I have one observation and one question.
I took what is probably an obsessively long time to prepare the chassis and shock tower edges, just to make sure they nicely polished. It's my first BMI kit and I wanted it to look nice. When I completed the assembly, I noticed what appeared to be a pretty good tweak in the rear of the chassis. I found that, in sealing the chassis, too much CA got on the middle upper chassis plate and it was pushing against the right middle block. Once I sanded the CA off, everything was fine.
My question is, was everyone else's rear belt pretty tight when you put the kit together? This is both my first Cyclone build (virgin black-ano kit built straight onto the BMI conversion), and also my first belt-drive car. The rear belt a little flex in it in some places (if I use the loosest setting), but as I turn the drivetrain over, it comes up almost taught in some places. Will it loosen up after a good run? I've tried carefully stretching it in place on the chassis, and I haven't felt much of a difference. Am I being paranoid, or do genuinely I need to correct this before I put it down on the track on Friday?
Because I REALLY want to see this thing kick butt during its first outing, and I don't want to look like an idiot if I did something stupid!
I'm going to finish my BMI-clone buildup tonight, and I have one observation and one question.
I took what is probably an obsessively long time to prepare the chassis and shock tower edges, just to make sure they nicely polished. It's my first BMI kit and I wanted it to look nice. When I completed the assembly, I noticed what appeared to be a pretty good tweak in the rear of the chassis. I found that, in sealing the chassis, too much CA got on the middle upper chassis plate and it was pushing against the right middle block. Once I sanded the CA off, everything was fine.
My question is, was everyone else's rear belt pretty tight when you put the kit together? This is both my first Cyclone build (virgin black-ano kit built straight onto the BMI conversion), and also my first belt-drive car. The rear belt a little flex in it in some places (if I use the loosest setting), but as I turn the drivetrain over, it comes up almost taught in some places. Will it loosen up after a good run? I've tried carefully stretching it in place on the chassis, and I haven't felt much of a difference. Am I being paranoid, or do genuinely I need to correct this before I put it down on the track on Friday?
Because I REALLY want to see this thing kick butt during its first outing, and I don't want to look like an idiot if I did something stupid!