Hot Bodies Cyclone
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for the advice Korey. I've got a heap of alloy parts coming through Customs at the moment so hopefully they will solve the problem. If not, all I can do is assume that the holes in the chassis plate have been mis-drilled and either replace the chassis plate or ream out the mounting holes for the front pivot block so that I can adjust it sideways and equalise the toe-in.
Is anybody else aware of a problem with mis-drilled chassis plates ?
Richard
Is anybody else aware of a problem with mis-drilled chassis plates ?
Richard
Suspended
Now we have the option parts called "Low gear unit" that allow you to use bigger spur gear for the brush less motor.
#61298 Low Gear Unit (Black)
#61329 Low Gear Unit (Purple)
#61360 Low Gear unit (Blue)
when you use these units, you will be able to have smoother drive train too,due to the less angle belt mounts. Even if you're not brush less system user, these parts are still good for you guys.
in addition, we will soon have 18T drive pulley that is 2 tooth bigger than the original one. This will make the drive train way more free!!
#61298 Low Gear Unit (Black)
#61329 Low Gear Unit (Purple)
#61360 Low Gear unit (Blue)
when you use these units, you will be able to have smoother drive train too,due to the less angle belt mounts. Even if you're not brush less system user, these parts are still good for you guys.
in addition, we will soon have 18T drive pulley that is 2 tooth bigger than the original one. This will make the drive train way more free!!
Suspended
It was on carpet with rubber tire's. I don't know what set up Scotty was running. He is running the BMI chassis though. I wi;; post my set up on www.gearchart.com sometime tomorrow.
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
spur gear
does anyone know what spur gear would i be able to use to run 13.5 and 5.5 pinions with out having to change spur gears.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
Well, I'm back in Bellingham doing the normal school stuff. I'm taking a break from my studies to post up my Reedy Race setup. The car was very easy to drive in the given conditions. Track was pretty high grip, and we were using Jaco Blues.
Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 45
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Rebound: Full rebound with no foam
Camber link Position: long, with 2mm under the inner mount.
Camber: 2.5 deg
Toe: 1 deg out
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.0 deg
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.0mm all around
Swaybar: 1.4mm w/ new style mount, with the screws backed out 3mm
Droop: 9.0mm from the center of the outer hinge pin to the setup board
Ride height: 5mm
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Rear:
Spring: Silver
Oil: Losi 35wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Rebound: full without foam
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber: 2.5 deg
Camber Link Position: long with 1.5mm under the inner pivot, and 1mm on the outer pivot.
Toe block: 2 deg
Shims under suspension mounts: 1.5mm all around
Swaybar: 1.2mm on new style mount with screws backed out 1mm.
Droop: 8.5mm measured from the outer hinge pin to the setup board.
Ride Height: 5mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7mm behind it, and 2mm in front of hub, .7mm behind it.
Other:
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool with MIP CVD's
Body: LW Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 mounted a tick forward
Wing: LW wing
Tires: Jaco blue premounts
Sauce: tweak/buggy grip
Motor: Team Trinity Duo 13.5
ESC: LRP SPX
Gearing: 100/40
Hope thats everything! Let me know if you have any questions.
-Korey
Front:
Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 45
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Rebound: Full rebound with no foam
Camber link Position: long, with 2mm under the inner mount.
Camber: 2.5 deg
Toe: 1 deg out
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.0 deg
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.0mm all around
Swaybar: 1.4mm w/ new style mount, with the screws backed out 3mm
Droop: 9.0mm from the center of the outer hinge pin to the setup board
Ride height: 5mm
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Rear:
Spring: Silver
Oil: Losi 35wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Rebound: full without foam
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber: 2.5 deg
Camber Link Position: long with 1.5mm under the inner pivot, and 1mm on the outer pivot.
Toe block: 2 deg
Shims under suspension mounts: 1.5mm all around
Swaybar: 1.2mm on new style mount with screws backed out 1mm.
Droop: 8.5mm measured from the outer hinge pin to the setup board.
Ride Height: 5mm
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7mm behind it, and 2mm in front of hub, .7mm behind it.
Other:
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool with MIP CVD's
Body: LW Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 mounted a tick forward
Wing: LW wing
Tires: Jaco blue premounts
Sauce: tweak/buggy grip
Motor: Team Trinity Duo 13.5
ESC: LRP SPX
Gearing: 100/40
Hope thats everything! Let me know if you have any questions.
-Korey
I have question on this set up for the rear, "the long camber link set
Camber Link Position: long with 1.5mm under the inner pivot, and 1mm on the outer pivot." The rear hub carrier has 2 positions, using the positon (inside wheel) to make the longest link possible won't it rub with the wheel rim??
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
I think what I said was misleading... It's basically just the kit link setup, but with the 1mm under the ballstud on the rear hub carrier. We were running Jaco Blues at the reedy race, and they have the edge of the wheel that is very rounded, so there is plenty of room for the ballcup.
-Korey
-Korey
I think what I said was misleading... It's basically just the kit link setup, but with the 1mm under the ballstud on the rear hub carrier. We were running Jaco Blues at the reedy race, and they have the edge of the wheel that is very rounded, so there is plenty of room for the ballcup.
-Korey
-Korey
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Without compressing them a bit to get the airgap out... it's 63mm. When compressing a bit.. it's roughly 61.
-Korey
-Korey
my cyclone update
& waitting this new parts
& waitting this new parts